heres mine, its on a mustang, max torque was pushed out to 4k or so.
my dynojet readouts are in my sig....roughly the same shaped curve
Piasini Engineering Info..
- Thread starter 456whpEvo8
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heres mine, its on a mustang, max torque was pushed out to 4k or so.
my dynojet readouts are in my sig....roughly the same shaped curve
starscream2k1
Member
- :
- 2007 CWP Mazdaspeed3
Akuma is a good tuner thats for sure, I have seen some of his work. Just curious how much did you spend on your tune alone? not including the AP? I wonder if we had a Piasini guy, and a Akuma guy both tune together....what would happen!
(humpleg)
Akuma is a good tuner thats for sure, I have seen some of his work. Just curious how much did you spend on your tune alone? not including the AP? I wonder if we had a Piasini guy, and a Akuma guy both tune together....what would happen!
(humpleg)
500, but i get cheaper reflashes as i plunge deeper into this moneypit i call a car. o yea im tuned for 18psi, just didnt have enough resistance to hit it on the dynojet. maybe im cresting 300, but who knows. i know brian put down 290 on akumas mustang and it came out to 355 on a dynojet, then he put down 305 on akumas mustang and hit 380 on a dynojet as well.
Akuma's dyno is a real heartbreaker. stock ms3s have trouble getting over 200.
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starscream2k1
Member
- :
- 2007 CWP Mazdaspeed3
Dynojets are easy to gain hp, no real resistance. The dynopack is a nice middle between the mustang and the dynojet.
Either way back on topic...
You said you knew a Piasini MS3 the went ZoomZoomBoom, do you have said persons username or something. I would definately like to have a chat with him.
myms3
and i believe the order of hp goes:
highest
dynapak
dynojet
dyno dynamics
mustang
lowest
dynapack is good because its the most consistant, mustang gives the most accurate "real world" hp. either way a dyno is just a tool to see hp gains, not bragging rights. unless your a ricer (ricer)
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no arguing, just discussing
it is impossible to compare numbers from one dyno to another. variables com into play not only with the car, but how the dyno has been calibrated. I know Akumas has to be one of the lowest dynos out there, and the disparity only increases with power.
akuma/dynojet
249/286
291/355
305/380
(owners sti)
540/670
(a recently tuned gtr)
612/785
starscream2k1
Member
- :
- 2007 CWP Mazdaspeed3
Dyno is a dyno, the only thing is dont compare between different dynos and as well, like in my case dyno on the same dyno, make the change, dyno again. I mean that way you can see a difference as everything was the same other then the flash. Keep as any variables constant, the more reliable the data I suppose.
agreed! also area under the curve. i could care less if you make 1000whp at 1 point, and crap everywhere else, give me 350whp from 3-7k and ill be happy (for now)
EDIT: yes starscream you are correct, its good for before/afters for THAT DAY only. go there when its cooler/hotter and your numbers will be different. its only a tool to measure changes in power in a before/after scenario
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Hey jmac, yesterday I installed the Corksport TBE I bought from you ... and both sound and gains are pretty damn amazing!! thanks again!
However, in the higher RPM ranges (over 4k) and when I give it 70%-100% throttle, the engine is cuts off for a second and I get a small backfire which gives me an annoying jerk forward (as if I stepped on the brakes). Seems like I might be overboosting a little bit maybe? Or fuel cut? Not sure, since I don't have an AP or Dashhawk. I have a boost guage but it's been on the fritz and only works like 1/5 of the time... so I'll have to check how high I'm spiking.
I was wondering, could the Piasani tune help circumvent this boost limit or maybe limit boost to be on the safe side? Obviously I want the Piasani tune for the performance and driveability of more torque throughout the whole RPM range, but I want it to be as conservative and safe as possible.
Will upgraded fuel pump help? Or is it not needed for the mods I have?
However, in the higher RPM ranges (over 4k) and when I give it 70%-100% throttle, the engine is cuts off for a second and I get a small backfire which gives me an annoying jerk forward (as if I stepped on the brakes). Seems like I might be overboosting a little bit maybe? Or fuel cut? Not sure, since I don't have an AP or Dashhawk. I have a boost guage but it's been on the fritz and only works like 1/5 of the time... so I'll have to check how high I'm spiking.
I was wondering, could the Piasani tune help circumvent this boost limit or maybe limit boost to be on the safe side? Obviously I want the Piasani tune for the performance and driveability of more torque throughout the whole RPM range, but I want it to be as conservative and safe as possible.
Will upgraded fuel pump help? Or is it not needed for the mods I have?
Your hitting boost/load cut. The throttle plate is slamming shut to save the engine. I highly recommend you get a dashhawk to monitor your engine. Any tuning solution will alleviate this problem. As for the fuel pump, you need to see what your stock pump is doing before you waste money on an upgrade you may not need.
lol its a quick read: major items:
AFR - Air Fuel Ratio - under part throttle it should be 14.7ish or lower, when engine braking it will go up to 30ish on the DH. going WOT(wide open throttle - pedal to the floor) it should drop into the 11's, anything higher than 12 and it could be unsafe
KR - Knock Retard - when the engine experiences an explosion in a cylinder not originating at the spark plug tip it will knock(sounds like a ping if its bad enough) The engine will pull timing (spark later in the stroke) to prevent it from happening. This is bad, you want 0 all the time, especially going WOT. below 1.0 is acceptable. This can happen from a number of things: bad gas, hot cylinder temps (from cruising for a while), heatsoak (sitting in traffic, the air entering the engine gets wicked hot) etc
Boost - obvious
DISI Pressure - Fuel pressure from the CDFP - anything less than 1500 at WOT is bad and you can run the risk of running lean
STFT - Short term fuel trims. the O2 sensor in the exhaust will "sniff" and determine if you are running too rich/lean and make fueling adjustments (example: runnning rich -1.5% means its pulling 1.5% of the fuel it the tables in the ecu are telling it) this will fluxuate all the time as it is instantaneous.
LTFT - Long term fuel trims. If a STFT correction happens repeatedly the ecu says "ok from now on, automatically pull/add X amount when this condition happens" This will reset the STFT to 0, and it will retrim from that.
LTFTs and STFTs are critical because the computer will use these values to determine fuel amounts when going WOT (open loop) verses cruising (closed loop)
Open Loop - Ecu says "**** you epa fags, I dont give a s*** about the environment. same goes for you sensors (most of them) I want maximum power, give it to me now"
Closed Loop - Ecu says "ok epa ***'s, ill keep emissions and fuel economy to a maximum" and reads from all the sensors.
Basic intro, hope it helps.
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