2013~2016 Part numbers for front knuckle/lower control arm + wheel speed sensor bolt/nuts?

Digbicks1234

16.5 CX-5 Touring/2023 CX-9 Touring
Hey guys,

Does anyone know the part numbers for the below? I looked on the parts sites and they do not appear to be listed as an individual item which typically means they were lumped together with other items. This is for the front, not the rears.
  1. Wheel speed sensor bolt: Mines snapped in half when I was trying to remove it and I will try to extract it using a left hand drill bit or something...
  2. Knuckle/Lower control arm ball joint bolt and nut: I had to hammer it out and ended up denting the starting portion of the bolt. Might've been smarter to put on the nut first hehe
Please see the below images:
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Mazda parts sites do not indicate these items unless I missed it:
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If it's the 'pinch bolt' that retains the ball joint stud, I'd try the Mazda dealer parts department or try to match it up at a hardware store or industrial supplier like Fastenal. The wheel speed sensor could be a bear. If it's rusted in place bad enough to have the bolt head snap off I wouldn't put much faith in left handed drill bit loosening it. Maybe drilling it out or drilling and using a spline type of extractor in combination with heat and percussive shock with a punch. What I would not do is use the common tapered spiral easy out. They are brittle and snap off leaving a piece of very hard steel jammed in the bolt. So then not only are you "up the creek" you just went farther "up the creek". They just suck so avoid them like the plague.
Through the years working on cars , breaking a bolt head or stripping a nut or bolt has been a rare occurrence. Maybe I just got lucky or approached things differently. But having said that, after Red Baron's control arm pinch bolt from hell and now your speed sensor bolt I'm wondering if I should remove all suspension /undercar fasteners and apply anti-seize before the rust demons arrive in full force. I just resolved a rounded off nut situation on my CX-5's muffler flange but that's somewhat expected on exhaust systems.
 
If it's the 'pinch bolt' that retains the ball joint stud, I'd try the Mazda dealer parts department or try to match it up at a hardware store or industrial supplier like Fastenal.
Avoid the big box stores...just a waste of time. When came to specialty items, never found what needed at Home Depot or Advance auto, etc.

I've never had problems locating bolts, etc. using the below.

Would walk-in to in the stores below and try all these:
* I usually start with the closest ones first and eventually someone can match the bolt/fastener.

1. Mazda Parts

2. Napa Auto

3. Tool & Supply Shop. Depends on proprieter. Call to make sure the one you go to has auto grade bolts.

4. Your old style local hardware store(if you still have one) that has automotive grade bolts.

5. Fastenal (local branch) - check to make sure they allow walk-ins.

As long as you have the bolt or portion of the bolt, your good to go.

Don't forget to measure the remaining broke off piece before you leave.

Nothing sucks like having to guestimate the length.

Also Tool and Supply shops are great. Depending on what you are working on, sometimes they have tools, etc that you never thought of. You can spend alot of $$$. One time went in for auto stuff and came out with diamond hole saws to cut tile and all kind of other tools.

ut having said that, after Red Baron's control arm pinch bolt from hell and now your speed sensor bolt I'm wondering if I should remove all suspension /undercar fasteners and apply anti-seize before the rust demons arrive in full force.
Yes if keeping for lifetime til it becomes a classic/antique

Otherwise , why not just let it age gracefully to the junkyard ?
 
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...
  1. Wheel speed sensor bolt: Mines snapped in half when I was trying to remove it and I will try to extract it using a left hand drill bit or something...
Here's a suggestion, if the broken stub does not come out without messing up the bolt hole threads.

Although I've never done it myself with an ABS sensor bolt, IMO you could drill and tap some new threads for a different bolt. This is just a basic hold-down type of fastener with a very low torque, and I think that anything that keeps the 2 flat surfaces pinned together would work just fine.

And I'm also curious why you needed to remove the ABS sensor, so I'll ask you that question as well.
 
If it's the 'pinch bolt' that retains the ball joint stud, I'd try the Mazda dealer parts department or try to match it up at a hardware store or industrial supplier like Fastenal. The wheel speed sensor could be a bear. If it's rusted in place bad enough to have the bolt head snap off I wouldn't put much faith in left handed drill bit loosening it. Maybe drilling it out or drilling and using a spline type of extractor in combination with heat and percussive shock with a punch. What I would not do is use the common tapered spiral easy out. They are brittle and snap off leaving a piece of very hard steel jammed in the bolt. So then not only are you "up the creek" you just went farther "up the creek". They just suck so avoid them like the plague.
Through the years working on cars , breaking a bolt head or stripping a nut or bolt has been a rare occurrence. Maybe I just got lucky or approached things differently. But having said that, after Red Baron's control arm pinch bolt from hell and now your speed sensor bolt I'm wondering if I should remove all suspension /undercar fasteners and apply anti-seize before the rust demons arrive in full force. I just resolved a rounded off nut situation on my CX-5's muffler flange but that's somewhat expected on exhaust systems.
Avoid the big box stores...just a waste of time. When came to specialty items, never found what needed at Home Depot or Advance auto, etc.

I've never had problems locating bolts, etc. using the below.

Would walk-in to in the stores below and try all these:
* I usually start with the closest ones first and eventually someone can match the bolt/fastener.

1. Mazda Parts

2. Napa Auto

3. Tool & Supply Shop. Depends on proprieter. Call to make sure the one you go to has auto grade bolts.

4. Your old style local hardware store(if you still have one) that has automotive grade bolts.

5. Fastenal (local branch) - check to make sure they allow walk-ins.

As long as you have the bolt or portion of the bolt, your good to go.

Don't forget to measure the remaining broke off piece before you leave.

Nothing sucks like having to guestimate the length.

Also Tool and Supply shops are great. Depending on what you are working on, sometimes they have tools, etc that you never thought of. You can spend alot of $$$. One time went in for auto stuff and came out with diamond hole saws to cut tile and all kind of other tools.


Yes if keeping for lifetime til it becomes a classic/antique

Otherwise , why not just let it age gracefully to the junkyard ?
Thanks for all of the great suggestions guys and it looks like you are on point @Hawke. There appears to be a simplified version of the parts diagram in most of the Mazda parts sites but others have a more comprehensive listing like Jim Ellis.

@Jmaz It might be because I live in the east coast where there's always a ton of road salt and snow so that may play a huge factor but consider yourself lucky :D

https://www.jimellismazdaparts.com/...y_assembly=1149445&ukey_product=9898415#99601

1655654957649.png


Here's a suggestion, if the broken stub does not come out without messing up the bolt hole threads.

Although I've never done it myself with an ABS sensor bolt, IMO you could drill and tap some new threads for a different bolt. This is just a basic hold-down type of fastener with a very low torque, and I think that anything that keeps the 2 flat surfaces pinned together would work just fine.

And I'm also curious why you needed to remove the ABS sensor, so I'll ask you that question as well.
I'll keep that in mind if it doesn't work out. There's a few methods that I was thinking of from least to most intrusive.
  1. Using a chisel + hammer and hitting the notched part of the broken bolt and then using that as a leverage point to knock the bolt out in a counter clockwise direction after spraying it down with some penetrating fluid.
  2. Using a left hand drill bit set to create the initial hole + the screw extractor from Harbor Freight. (Either this or #3).
  3. Heating the bolt a bit>wait for it to cool off>apply some penetrating fluid and then hit it with a round tip punch to shock the bolt/loosen any rust and then attempt to drive it out with a left hand drill bit. The only issue I think I'll run into is the fact that the CV boot is to the left side but I figure I could angle the MAPP torch to face the rotor side and adjust the flame low enough that it doesn't do too much damage to the surrounding areas. (Either this or #2).
  4. If none of the options work, I figure I will just keep drilling the bolt until there's nothing left and scrape any metal shavings out using a metal pick + magnet.
  5. Try re-tapping the bolt hole if I mess up the threads from #4.
  6. Last resort: Buy a brand new knuckle.....
There's two other options I've considered as well (there's too many options :D).
  1. Create a pilot hole using a drill bit and then drive in a screw into that hole and then use a vise grip to grasp onto the bolt while trying to loosen it. How to remove a broken ABS sensor from your wheel hub.
  2. Create a pilot hole using a drill bit then hammer in a torx key. One way how to extract a broken screw + drill and torx key.

I was planning to remove the ABS sensor initially as it seemed that the ABS wire was getting in the way of the front strut removal and I didn't want to damage it by having the strut fall on top of it. It turned out to be a bad idea, especially since it's a super small bolt size and there's a ton of rust.


I've replaced the below so far yesterday for the passenger but it's still work in progress considering the two small setbacks.
  1. Inner Tire Rod
  2. Lower Control Arm
  3. Front Strut
 
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... I was planning to remove the ABS sensor initially as it seemed that the ABS wire was getting in the way of the front strut removal and I didn't want to damage it by having the strut fall on top of it. It turned out to be a bad idea, especially since it's a super small bolt size and there's a ton of rust. ...
I kind of figured you would write something like that. But hey, everything is perfect in hindsight and all of us who DIY have stuff like that happen to us, myself many times over.

Here's one other thing to add to your list for dealing with that broken bolt. There are many varieties of metal threaded inserts on the market, and IMO a small threaded insert installed into that bolt hole could work very well for this application. A tiny metal sleave would likely be required to take up the space between the sensor bolt hole and the smaller diameter bolt that's going into the insert.
 
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