Okay... so the new idle hunting at cold is simply because of the cams, huh? The idle actually went up to 900 rpms by itself, now it's back down... guess it's the stock computer's doing. Yeah, it's starting to dip to 500.
I'll try your suggestion of extra advance and see if that helps. We've added some extra fuel, but that actually seemed to exacerbate the problem... maybe I'll dial it back to 13-14 (seems around 10-12 now... the way my needle actually visibly drops as I'm at idle seems to suggest this...) and add that timing and see what we get.
As for removing overlap... the Integral packaging says not to use cam-gears with them... should I listen to this or go ahead and re-install the gears?
If the integrals are ANYWHERE near as agressive as the twiggy cams, bypass air control screw wont be enough - you'll have to crack the throttle open - you can do this with a suitably sized socket (10mm i believe, could be wrong) and an allen key. You'll then need to recalibrate your throttle position sensor to reset the new "zero" position (not sure how you do this on your set up, on the microtech its a setting called TPSCAL).
Extra fuel will drop the idle a bit - but it'll also make it smoother - compensate with the throttle opening, and with timing....lean idle's are inherently rough...a rich idle, just like a rich fuel mix under power, makes the engine seem a little "doughy" which isn't desirable for driving, but is EXACTLY what you want for idling.
as for not use cam gears? why the hell not? there is absolutely completely NO WAY that they could have got the overlap dead right for every single application. Every person builds their engine differently, for different purposes, with varying levels of craziness. The only issue i could see is with massive alterations to the cam timing, coupled with the big lift - you could get a bit of piston contacting valve, but even thats highly unlikely (and easy to test, by spinning the crank around with a wrench a few times with the spark plugs out). Ring them up or email them and ask them just why the hell they think that you shouldn't be mucking with the cam advance and/or overlap. Check to see if doing so would cause a warrenty issue with them...
if they say that it will, ask for an explaination as to why it should - and ask them how they determined that whatever their overlap is set to is ideal for every possible combination of head work, manifolds, compression, and engine tune.
