P5 door speaker components

Rider69 said:
OK...I will say it since no one else has...Sony? Why would you choose Sony? There are so many other brands out there which would sound much better.

Anyway, good job on the install and write up.:)

My exact thoughts. I've never been a fan of Sony Car Audio products.

The install looks top notch though :D
 
I was just messin anyway. I hope he doesn't take it the wrong way. If he is happy witht he way it sounds, then that is all that matters. Personally, I would never use anything Sony, except for their TV's or PS2.
 
Rider69 said:
OK...I will say it since no one else has...Sony? Why would you choose Sony? There are so many other brands out there which would sound much better.

Anyway, good job on the install and write up.:)

Yeah, I agree. And what's with the red thing in the midrange? Is there a speaker behind it? Looks like a knob used to turn on some valve or something... :)

Of course we're just kidding :D Good job! (thumb)
 
byohndspeed any pics of the driver kick panel?

how do you get access to the fuse panel after installation?
 
the fuse panel was unbolted and zip tied up above the kickpanel..the drivers side looks identical to the pass. side bu ti will take a pic of it tomorow at the shop and post it for you..
 
byohndspeed - Did you know if I can buy those side panel peices somewhere? I want to keep a pair of stock unmodified ones if I do a speaker install like yours (for if I need to sell the car in the next few years). Also, is it hard to move the fusebox?

Thanks!
-DaViper
 
here is a pic of the drivers side.the silplate does go all the way down.i dont have that side back to gether yet so i just threw it in quick for ya..
 

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Got a question: When wire speaker wire from an amp, is it better running it directly to the speakers, say compotent speakers or run it to the desk by connecting it the speaker wire from there?
 
if you're not running more than 35-50 watts rms you can go to the wiring behind the deck.i dont always recomend that but it does work ok.
 
I am running 110w to each of my front components so upgrading the wires was imperative. If you're using an external amp, upgrade the wires. Otherwise, the stock ones will do.
 
I know I'm going to run more than 40 watts, so I guess running it to the speakers seem like the only way...arrgg more work then oh well....better do it the right way or do it again. =)
 
Mp5978 said:
I know I'm going to run more than 40 watts, so I guess running it to the speakers seem like the only way...arrgg more work then oh well....better do it the right way or do it again. =)

I was going to say that it also depends on how LAZY you are :)
 
haha Naww. I'm never lazy when it comes to the P5 ;)
oh and another question: Is it nessarity to get compotent speakers in the rear or just get a 6' coaxial speakers w/o the tweeter?
 
Mp5978 said:
haha Naww. I'm never lazy when it comes to the P5 ;)
oh and another question: Is it nessarity to get compotent speakers in the rear or just get a 6' coaxial speakers w/o the tweeter?

Hahaha, I think compotent speakers are okay. Just don't get impotent speakers :)

Anyway, I would say that if you want your passengers in the rear seat to have better sound, then get component speakers. But you and the front passenger probably won't hear the difference because they'll be blocked by the front seats.
 
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Mp5978 said:
haha Naww. I'm never lazy when it comes to the P5 ;)
I take it you have never pulled wires through a door jam before. That task will make any installer lazy the second time around.
oh and another question: Is it nessarity to get compotent speakers in the rear or just get a 6' coaxial speakers w/o the tweeter?
Coaxials for the rear are fine. All you really need is a set of drivers actually...no need for mids and highs in the back unless you have passengers often. You also only need about 1/4 of the power going to the rear. (For example if you send 100watts to the front, 25watts to the rear is fine; in most cases the rear outputs of the head unit are all you will need)
 
Don't worry I have a friend who pull wires out them doors many time and beside, worse case I can always come back here and ask more questions ;) And for the rear speakers, if the price isn't that much of big difference, I'll just go with the coaxial. Oh, and speakers are the MB quart RCE268 for the front and RCE 216 for the rear and the JL 300/4 for the amp.
 

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