P5 around $800 for this setup with ?'s

[mazda5protege]

I want to run the stock headunit but want to use RCA converters so when I in the future get a alarm I will get a nicer HU and can just pop it in. I'm A little confused on the wiring with harness's for the stock HU and how I can incoporate RCA cables in their.

[Stock HU] --> [?] --> [Orginal Wiring]


-Componets- $210 CDT Classic 5.25

I want to get the CDT Classic componets that are on thezeb.com for $150 but then I'll have to find a spot for the tweeter. For $210 you can get the 5.25 so I can fab some .75 MDF and make a "kick panel" in the stock 6x8 spot right so the woofer and tweeter are right next to each other, This is possible right?


-Rear Door Fillers- $47CDT CL-6X 6.5" 2-way Full-Range Speakers

I think these have 80 rms handling + their cheap. I guess the easiest fitting speaker for the p5 rear door is 6" speakers but they don't really make those.... can these fit? What kind of modifications do you think I would have to make?

-Sub- one Elemental Designs 10" ($125 - 175)

Not to sure if about this, what do you guys think? I listen to techno, rock, and metal. If I go with the e10K.44 / .14 for $125 I would build the ported box on their website. But if I went with the e10O.44 / .14 then they only recommend sealed boxes which is good for trunk space

-Amps-

-Sub Amp- Rockford Fosgate $129
Power 350S 87.5x2 @ 4ohm - 350 watts RMS total
Sounds good for the money.... I know its older but it should work. I guess i'd mount this on the back seat or on the sub box.

-Speak Amp- $130?
Similar Rockford Fosgate (an older one) if I can find one on EGAY 4 channel amp. Any good cheap (as in price) on thezeb? 4 channel around 75 x 4 rms because i don't want to go over 80 rms x 4. I want to place this amp under the drivers seat but not sure how to mount it their.... take up the carpet and.... screw it in? or what?

-Wires and MDF for box- $70 or more

Wires from http://www.knukonceptz.com/ since i've hear good things from this board.

Should I treat the MDF that i'm using the the doors? Or for that fact is MDF even a good idea for makeshift kicker plates? Is their another material that is more suitable? Less prone to break down when exposed to water?

Free shipping from thezeb.com and $35 ish for eD sub i'm guessing so ABOUT $800

I hope this setup will make me (hah)(mj)(hump)(jerkit):wtf:

 

[got wake?]

for the front components, it's not a kick panel, it's an adapter plate you will definitly want to treat it with either a wood sealer, or latex paint. MDF swells up really bad when it gets soaked with water. everything looks pretty good. did you check out the $1000 stereo challenge?

 

[mazda5protege]

Thx for the reply, how about the wiring for the stock HU? how can I run RCA cables from them with not a lot of splicing.

So I can be 100 % sure 5.25 AND tweeters will fit in the 6x8 spot with the MDF adapter plate? And i guess MDF is the best to use?

Can the Stock speaker wiring handle 60ish - 75 RMS ?

What do you guys think for the 10" elmental design sub should I look into the k or o series? I read somewhere on the forum that if I ran the o series you would get more low deep bass, is that true? I figure k series in a vented box should be about as low as a o series in a sealed box, what do you guys think?

Whats a good cheap 4 channel amp? since the 350 rms Rockford Fosgate sounds good for the sub amp for only $129.

Oh and whats the best way to "mount" a amp under the front drivers seat in a p5?

 

[toucci]

To hook up my amp to drive my front components i cut the factory wires and soldered them to the line out converter, right there. I guess I cant say its a non smoker car anymore

The line out converter was 30 bucks and even has built in gain adjustment, something most units included with amps don't have.

and for god's sake run some new wire! its a total b**** but its worth it. the stock speaker wires will cry out for mercy with 70w rms... have you seen how tiny they are?

 

[got wake?]

you'll need a 4 channel line ouput converter (LOC) wired in just after the factory plug. it'll be a pain, since you'll have to do it in your car and soldering it is the best way to do it, but properly crimping butt connectors will work also. you'll want a "good" LOC, so i highly recomend spending the money on one from david navone. this one is $50, but it's 4 channel with adjustmen. click on adapters to see the rest of the LOC's. for the wires, here's the stock P5 wires. look about 1/4 way down the page
yeah, 5.25's have plenty of room for the driver and tweeter. 1/4" board will work fine. MDF is not the best wood to use, but most people have it laying around just be careful not to put too much torque on the screws holding the driver to the board, MDF strips easily
i've heard of plenty of people running 75 watts through their stock speaker wiring without any problems. course i won't it is a pain in the ass to run the wire, but after seeing the stock speaker wiring, as tiny as it is, and the discoloration in it, i replaced it right away
for the sub, i'd go with the K series, since you aren't giving it a lot of power. i installed an O12 in my friend's car, running off 375 watts, and it just begs for more power i'd give it at 500, if it was in my car put the K10 in a ported box, and you'll be set
what about the tsunami DB4440 for a 4 channel amp? not bad for $165. or you could get the us acoustics USX4085. $130 at thezeb. i installed that amp along with the USX600D in my friend's car along with the O12, CDT components, and some cheap rear speakers. the amps are great. very efficient
for mounting the amps, remove the seat(s), cut the air vents, or put them over the amps, and use self tapping machine screws to screw them into the floor. i've never done it in my car, but i've done it in other cars. and i know many have mounted them under their seats. course if you don't want to screw through the floor, and save yourself a lot of time and hassle when you need to take the amps out, or move them for adjustment, just use velcro just put like 2 strips, one along each long edge. walmart has the velcro with the adheasive backing on it it might sound ghetto, but it actually works very well, and the amps are very secure.

 

[pope_P5]

I am currently running a Rockford 400a4 and have had no problems so far. You can find one for about 150 on ebay, but of course you will be getting a used amp. I plan on running jl components and feel the amp will do just fine

 

[mazda5protege]

MDF is not the best wood to use

What would you recommend? Should I just go to like a Home Depot and get some kind of a harder wood? The harder the wood, can I go a little thinner?

 

[Poseur]

I've got the tsunami 4440, quite a deal, and it DOES sound really nice. Plenty of power, and super clean. I'm not an uberconnasour, but I think it sounds as good as my eclipse I used to have, with more power to boot. For wood, 3/4" is overkill. get like 1/2" or perhaps smaller. If not, you'll have to trim the 5x7" oval ring that protrudes back from the interior panel. I'm actually likely going to make plates soon since I've got visions of Kappa perfects dancing in my head. I might do some midifications to fit the 6.5's though. And yes, Do pull wire. My dad's got fishing line thicker than the factory stuff. It's kinda a pain, but you're gonna be in your doors a good bit anyway, I'd say it'll take you maybe like an extra half hour, and doesn't really cost anything. Plus that way if you ever want to put it back to stock all you need to do is just plug the stock crap back in. Besides, I took the time to take pics for everyone for that how-to, so use it! In the sub dept. I'd stick with the 10k and port it, or go with a 12k sealed for a space compromise. I've only got 350 flowing to my 12a while I'm breaking it in and it hits HARD and freakin drops. I'm beginning to think something lower powered and a bit more efficient would've been entirely acceptable.

 

[got wake?]

mazda5protege, MDF is not the best because if water hits it, it swells up a lot, and the wood itself strips out very easily. basically a harder wood would be preferable. MDF is too soft, which is why it strips so easily. 1/4" board is the best to use, since there is room for it, but it's not too thick 3/4" is what's used for enclosures if using MDF, i'd suggest using something like these.