P300 and P0340 while cruising?

[Installshield 2]

um...the injectors fire in batch at high rpm?...I never heard that...high rpm as in open loop...or switch at a given rpm?...

and I also was unaware of the CMS only being for fuel timing...The CMS and crank sensor are both incorporated for the triggering of spark and fuel...but only fuel timing (obviously these sensors have little to do with fuel amount)...the cam sensor is able to tell which of the two groups of cylinders is nearing TDC (wasted spark, so the sensor is only worried about two cylinders per fire)...and the crank sensor is able to determine each individual revolution...

But that could be true...the crank sensor could just alternate the fire group every rev...since its only two groups for the four cylinders, every second rev it resets...or something...I am still lost man, sorry...

 

[Captain KRM P5]

wow dana, still no solution to this?

 

[igdrasil]

What do you need me to double check?

if you have a cranksensor malfunction code.

On this thread you mentioned something about the CAM sensor and also the CRANK sensor.

 

[igdrasil]

As far as I know, the CAM sensor is for fuel timing.
Crank sensor for ignition timing.

 

[Kooldino]

um...the injectors fire in batch at high rpm?...I never heard that...high rpm as in open loop...or switch at a given rpm?...

AFAIK, it's at a given RPM. I don't know it for a fact, but I've heard it from multiple sources.

and I also was unaware of the CMS only being for fuel timing...The CMS and crank sensor are both incorporated for the triggering of spark and fuel...but only fuel timing (obviously these sensors have little to do with fuel amount)...the cam sensor is able to tell which of the two groups of cylinders is nearing TDC (wasted spark, so the sensor is only worried about two cylinders per fire)...and the crank sensor is able to determine each individual revolution...

That makes sense to me, since the cams only turn half as fast as the crank.

But that could be true...the crank sensor could just alternate the fire group every rev...since its only two groups for the four cylinders, every second rev it resets...or something...I am still lost man, sorry...

This also makes sense. Dammit. Anyone who lives in South Jersey want to let me borrow their cam sensor for 5 minutes?

 

[Kooldino]

Interesting paragraph...

On many engines, a squish or quench area is used to negate combustion in certain areas to avoid knock. By having a matched area where the piston and combustion chamber come in close proximity at TDC, the gasses are kept cool enough so that they will not ignite until the piston has moved down the bore and cylinder volumes are increasing. This keeps the rate of pressure rise below the knock limit. Some people are dismayed when they install a thicker head gasket to lower the CR and have knocking worse than before. This is because they have negated the designed-in quench effect. A large squish area also tends to promote increased chamber turbulence which is important for mixing and power at high rpm.

http://www.sdsefi.com/techcomb.htm

 

[Kooldino]

Ok, so I did yet another test.

Today is very warm here (relatively), it's around 60* outside. So since it's not cold, there's less of a chance of my problem occuring.

So during my lunch break, I went outside and unplugged the MPI tuner from it's harness. In order for the car to run, I had to jump two of the wires on the harness. I jumped the white wire to the yellow wire, and the red/white wire to the blue/white wire.

Put the key in, and she fired right up (actually, faster than usual).

Performed the same test that I did in the video I posted last night, and it didn't break up until about 6900rpm in neutral. The water temp was 194*and the IAT read 89* or so. Also, it was not strong enough to throw the 340 CEL (or any CEL for that matter).

5 minutes later, I plugged the MPI back in and started it back up. I notice it takes an extra second or so to start with the MPI, but other than that, it seems the same. I perform the same test. And I get the exact same results.

So add that to the list of things that are not causing the problem: the MPI unit itself.

 

[1FASTMP5]

Ok, so I did yet another test.

Today is very warm here (relatively), it's around 60* outside. So since it's not cold, there's less of a chance of my problem occuring.

So during my lunch break, I went outside and unplugged the MPI tuner from it's harness. In order for the car to run, I had to jump two of the wires on the harness. I jumped the white wire to the yellow wire, and the red/white wire to the blue/white wire.

Put the key in, and she fired right up (actually, faster than usual).

Performed the same test that I did in the video I posted last night, and it didn't break up until about 6900rpm in neutral. The water temp was 194*and the IAT read 89* or so. Also, it was not strong enough to throw the 340 CEL (or any CEL for that matter).

5 minutes later, I plugged the MPI back in and started it back up. I notice it takes an extra second or so to start with the MPI, but other than that, it seems the same. I perform the same test. And I get the exact same results.

So add that to the list of things that are not causing the problem: the MPI unit itself.

dana, i have an extra NEW IAT sensor ill hook you up with.(2thumbs)
you wanna try to see if this helps? might as well eliminate ONE more option.... let me know bro

 

[Kooldino]

dana, i have an extra NEW IAT sensor ill hook you up with.(2thumbs)
you wanna try to see if this helps? might as well eliminate ONE more option.... let me know bro

Well, it seems to be reporting the correct temps (it felt like it was around 89* under the hood), but I'll give it another look on a cold day. If it appears to be inaccurate, I'll gladly take it off your hands.

 

[LinuxRacr]

One thing I do know that every Cam Position Sensor that I have had has became dented by the Cam at some point in time. Every one. On every Engine.

 

[Kooldino]

One thing I do know that every Cam Position Sensor that I have had has became dented by the Cam at some point in time. Every one. On every Engine.

That's very interesting.

Can you post pics?

The odd part is, that it's far from the cam, but maybe the cam gear is hitting it for some reason.

 

[LinuxRacr]

I'm not gonna touch my current one due to a wire being on the verge of disconnect, but I will show you my old one.

 

[Kooldino]

Ok, so I ran into a local MSP owner in the Best Buy parking lot tonight who was nice enough to let me borrow his cam sensor for a minute.

Sure as hell, it didn't change a goddamn thing.

I'm running out of things to try here.

 

[Captain KRM P5]

Ok, so I ran into a local MSP owner in the Best Buy parking lot tonight who was nice enough to let me borrow his cam sensor for a minute.

Sure as hell, it didn't change a goddamn thing.

I'm running out of things to try here.

 

[DiS]

bleh that sux ass Dana.

Is there any way you can get MPNick take a look at it?

 

[Kooldino]

Also forgot to mention:

Since I have an ECU from an LX, and I'm running 93 octane with plugs one stage colder than the ECU is programmed to deal with, perhaps my timing was too conservative to properly ignite things.

So, I used the MPI to advance timing 1*. I sat in a parking lot in nuetral and revved it. However, I just got a non smooth rev. I'm not sure if the MPI can properly advance timing or not, which leads me to my next idea...

I'd like to get my hands on an mp3 or MSP ecu, since they are both designed for 91 octane. Bonus points for the MSP ecu, since it's designed to run on heat range 6 plugs. Obviously, I would just plug it in and rev in neutral (driving around with it would be dumb).

Other ideas of mine include:
Trying another MAF (which I have)
Trying NGK heat range 5 plugs (like what came stock in the n/a proteges)
Fuel Filter (seems like a stretch)

 

[MPNick]

Also forgot to mention:

Since I have an ECU from an LX, and I'm running 93 octane with plugs one stage colder than the ECU is programmed to deal with, perhaps my timing was too conservative to properly ignite things.

So, I used the MPI to advance timing 1*. I sat in a parking lot in nuetral and revved it. However, I just got a non smooth rev. I'm not sure if the MPI can properly advance timing or not, which leads me to my next idea...

I'd like to get my hands on an mp3 or MSP ecu, since they are both designed for 91 octane. Bonus points for the MSP ecu, since it's designed to run on heat range 6 plugs. Obviously, I would just plug it in and rev in neutral (driving around with it would be dumb).

Other ideas of mine include:
Trying another MAF (which I have)
Trying NGK heat range 5 plugs (like what came stock in the n/a proteges)
Fuel Filter (seems like a stretch)

What about your stock plug wires? Did you try to put them back on?

 

[Kooldino]

What about your stock plug wires? Did you try to put them back on?

Yeah, I was actually running them, and then I tried the Sparkco ones just to try something different. The problem was identical either way.

edit - You wouldn't happen to have any MSP (or mp3) ECUs that I could borrow for 5 minutes to test out in my car, would you?

 

[Kooldino]

Also, yet another idea...

I could just rig up some intake pipe directly to my TB so that it totally bypasses my turbo setup, and just test in neutral.

 

[TurfBurn]

The blue hose your replaced is just one of the vacuum check valves used for the VICS system... so no worries there. I'm downloading the video now and will see what I see I guess