P0300 & P0090 Code help

Could use a few suggestions from anyone who has thrown this combination of codes before.

P0300 - Random/Multiple Misfire
P0090 - Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit

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Description of problem: Started with an erratic idle and an occasional hard time starting up. Occasionally the RPMs would bounce between 1K-2.5K right after start up before settling down at the normal range. This happened 2-3 times over the course of a month. Then it would occasionally have trouble on acceleration - seemed like it was bogging down (maybe having a hard time burning fuel). When this happened the car would want to stall, rpms drop all the way down as if I had a huge vacuum leak. This happened twice over the course of two weeks. No CEL codes were present at this time.

At this point I made these changes on the car:
New exhaust manifold gasket - this eliminated most of a leak I had there. Still sounds like a tiny one is there upon start up but closes itself within 30 seconds of warming up
Replace radiator - was seeing minor leakage/seepage at the top and figured I'd replace it since I had to pull it out to get the exhaust manifold off
Replaced spark plugs - gapped to about .30
Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator (thought this was the problem)

Car ran fine for about 2 weeks. Then the hesitation came back. On the first occurrence the CEL light started blinking, the car ran horribly (like it's on only a few cylinders) and would stall out any time I wasn't giving it gas. I limped it 1/2 mile home never going over 2K RPMs, checked the codes and those were the two that came up (P0300 & P0090).

I'm thinking it's the coil packs needing to be replaced (125K miles on them) but wanted some second opinions on if this was the likely culprit or if a bad fuel pump (or something else) was more likely before I bought any other parts.

One other thing to mention - the problem started shortly after I did an oil change and Sea Foam treatment in the vacuum line (is it possible this caused a problem with my injectors causing these codes?) I've done the Sea Foam thing multiple times before this with only positive results so don't think it's the reason for the problem, but thought it worth mentioning.

Any thoughts/opinions are appreciated.
 
I had a injector get stuck on me and it sounded like what you are describing and i got the same codes you did, my problem didnt go away and i had to limp it home and found out the injector was stuck so i replaced it. About 3 weeks later the same exact thing happened to me and i had to replace another. The last accourance was a little over a month ago. But everynow and then its like a injector will stick for like 5 seconds then boom it goes back to normal so i dont know whats going on, always run 93 octane or 91 if i cant get 93 where iam at. The way i found out which injector was to pull all spark plugs and unhook the injectors from the harness (leaving them in the intake manifold) and crank the car over and gas would start spraying out of the cylinder that had the stuck injector. Our cars have a weird type of fuel filter, i guess it is like a sock and the fuel pump sits inside of it from whati have heard. If you think you might need a injector look online for a used one, the dealer wants 200 for one when people on here are selling the set for 45. Let me know what you find out could possibly help me with my problem.
 
Sounds like a bad coilpack to me but I have had seafoam ruin the primary O2 sensor on three different occasions on three different cars.

Where are you at in Texas?
 
Replaced Coil Packs and wires this evening and cleared the codes. Code 0300 came back immediately upon startup as did the blinking check engine light.

Car is idling VERY rough below 2K RPMs, fine above (although I only revved it up two brief times to check) but didn't stall. Could be because it was a cold start and the car was wanting to idle at 1500. Vacuum pressure now at about 18lbs at idle. Normally is at about 22lbs. Checked my hard pipes and none are loose. It's possible the one connection behind the bumper came loose, but unlikely.

One thing I'm not sure if this is normal, when idling if I hold the window button (up or down) the idle drops to about 12 lbs and the car feels like it wants to stall even more. Tried it three times with the same effect. It never did stall, but came close. Returned to 18lbs when I stopped pulling on the switch. Ground connection off battery seems solid. Not sure where else to check for that.

Hornsfan - I'm in Dallas. I can pull the primary O2 sensor this weekend and visually check it, but it's got less than 50K miles on it. Not sure when I switched it out, within the last 2 years, but the code I got then was "Bank 1 too Lean" or something. Plus it didn't effect the idle or performance in any way so I don't think that's it.

I'm open to other suggestions. At this point I'm out of ideas and will probably have to take it in to the dealership to have them figure out the problem and decide if I should fix it or just dump the car.
 
I cleared the codes using my scan tool but didn't disconnect the neg battery terminal and bleed the system to fully reset the ECU. Is that needed? I would think that just clearing the codes would be enough, especially since one of the codes didn't show back up.
 
Is your exhaust coming out super black and cloudy when you start it up?

Not cloudy in the sense that I can see it, but it does leave a small black spray of powder/fluid of the wall/ground when I first start it up if it's been sitting longer than a 1-2 days.

I never see anything out the exhaust when driving normally. I do get a little cloud when I first floor it if I'm driving aggressively. I am catless though, with a catless Apex down pipe - so this has happened for the life of the car.
 
Go see Sam @ C R O S S Over before you go to the dealer if you cannot resolve your issues. He's an MSP guru with his own shop. No longer a member on here however.
 
You have an injector that is intermidently sticking open. This black stuff from the exhaust is unburnt fuel mixed with a little oil. Run some seafoam through it and hopefully it will nelp.
 
replace the fpr already....

Already did, as noted in the first post. Before any of the codes came up.

Booster - Sam's a friend of mine - we started the local club here in Dallas together 8 years ago. For minor or after-hour installations his shop is often my garage ;) Had planned to call him this weekend to see if he has an extra set of injectors i can use to test to see if that is the problem. Thanks for the heads up.
 
If it's intermittent, it's unlikely to be the fuel pressure regulator itself. I would check your pressure regulator control solenoid valve- ohm it out and it should be between 22-26 ohms. Mechanical failures rarely ever are an intermittent problem, whereas electrical failures very often are.
 
Did you put new spark plug 'boots' for the cylinders under the coil packs? Some people overlook those and they need to be replaced with the wires. What are the plugs gapped at? You may have a bad ECU or just a spark issue.
 
Did you put new spark plug 'boots' for the cylinders under the coil packs? Some people overlook those and they need to be replaced with the wires. What are the plugs gapped at? You may have a bad ECU or just a spark issue.
Or he could have a bad fuel pressure solenoid like I suggested checking... Updates OP?
 
Did you put new spark plug 'boots' for the cylinders under the coil packs? Some people overlook those and they need to be replaced with the wires. What are the plugs gapped at? You may have a bad ECU or just a spark issue.

Replaced everything from the electrical connector all the way through the spark plug. Plugs were gapped at about .30

No new progress. We had a cold front move in and with the car sitting a few days the battery's now dead. It's been sitting in my garage since the start of this thread. I've got a Nissan I'm using as my daily driver now. I'll tow the MSP to the dealership once my tax return comes in. Will update with more info as soon as I get some.
 
Replaced everything from the electrical connector all the way through the spark plug. Plugs were gapped at about .30

No new progress. We had a cold front move in and with the car sitting a few days the battery's now dead. It's been sitting in my garage since the start of this thread. I've got a Nissan I'm using as my daily driver now. I'll tow the MSP to the dealership once my tax return comes in. Will update with more info as soon as I get some.
DUDE! Just test the fuel pressure solenoid to humor me!
 
Update:
Battery died. When I replaced with a new one CEL was gone but car was still running badly.
Pulled out the unichip - no difference
Swapped out the injectors - no difference
Cleaned egr valve - no difference

After about a 1/2 mile drive the CEL came back on. Car still running poorly and feels like its running on 2 cylinders.
 
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