Oil drain plug flew out on highway

Got a call yesterday that my car was ready. They'd driven it from the shop in Plano to the one around the corner from me in Dallas, so I felt safe driving it a few miles around the neighborhood. I can't tell much difference in how it drives, including anything different from the new clutch/rear engine mount. I hear a new noise, a faint whirring noise when accelerating from a dead stop, like a kid learning to whistle.

The mechanic in Plano who'd been working on the car previously had sadly separated from the company, so I don't know who did the final installation. I did hear that at least one part of the assembly hadn't been done quite right but I don't know all the details. (Per the manager, the sound made was like the brakes' needing replacement, but they knew it wasn't brakes since they'd just done the vehicle inspection two months ago. He mentioned something having to do with the bell housing wasn't tightened and they fixed that. Having noticed that oversight, they then went over the whole installation before calling me.)

PB4, I'm still assuming I have an LKQ engine for now. The picture below is the extent of the paperwork I've received at this point. Konnichiwa.

1584279613570.png
 
I can see a couple cable-routing issues I need to return to original (spark plug wires and upstream O2 sensor), but everyone feel free to point out others. Besides the pic above, some of you will spot at least one other difference with the new engine. Any others you can see? :) I can take pics from other angles if you all are curious.

1584280010232.png


1584280028716.png


1584280042645.png


1584280055628.png


1584280075048.png


1584280092290.png
 
I'm glad my meager mechanical talent enables me to change my own oil.

Hellava lot of trouble to avoid a half hour job, even if it is a pain and sometimes a mess to dispose of.
 
I’m all for doing your own stuff but it worked out for you. I’d love to get a free engine because some idiot didn’t torque the drain plug.
 
Yeah, I used to change my oil when I lived at home with Mom. :) I just don't want to deal with fluids at the apartment. I had good Hitachi coils on the old engine and so-so Autozone plug wires, but when I checked the engine today I had mismatched coils. I've called them up to see if they've trashed the old engine yet, and if not, I'll go get them.

Here's the whirring noise I was talking about. Anyone know what this is?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/3ASBDocJHzBJn9Z39
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kRLpfEqnFgAYJeKW9
 
In both videos you should be able to hear a (very audible) secondary noise. I think it's the exhaust shield.

Anyway, the engine is from Japan; it wasn't from LKQ but from "JDM Motors" or someone like that. I've asked for paperwork on the "new" engine and the coils/spark plug wires from my old engine. This replacement engine has one good (factory) Hitachi coil and a no-name one and the frayed spark plug wire has already shocked me once.
 
I hear it now, what I believe to be my exhaust shield is louder than that but maybe mine is looser than yours.

photos.app.goo.gl

Sound

New item · Album by SPR
photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl
 
I was going to say that looks like they put a JDM engine in there. That sticker is something they install during timing belt replacement, and should say the date and mileage it was replaced. Since it's all Japanese labeling and KM on the label, I'd say that motor didn't come from the states :)

They usually write the date/mileage on it with a sharpie or a pen, then put a plastic cover over the label to protect it. I'm guessing the motor was steam cleaned prior to shipping and it stripped the actual information off of it.
 
Yeah, you can also see the bolts coming up from the valve cover to install the plastic engine cover found on AUS/JP/EU engines. The engine looks clean inside and out and I'm assured that it's low miles. I'll tighten up the exhaust shield (or remove it temporarily) to see if it's what's making the noise. On my old engine, the exhaust shield had rusted out around the lowest bolt and I had to sandwich two steel washers on either side of the shield for the bolt to grab onto anything. It worked well, and those washers could easily not have been "reinstalled."

At least half of the brittle cable routing connectors were broken during the engine replacement, but that's to be expected. It looked like they put it back together in a hurry, because one of the coil bolts wasn't even tightened and that coil was a couple millimeters above flush with the valve cover.

The car doesn't drive differently at all, that I can tell. I was thinking the new Sachs clutch kit would be noticeable, but it's really not. Is that normal? Also, I'm not feeling anything from the new rear engine mount, and I can see that it's been replaced with my new factory one.
 
I remember reading that in Japan they have really strick emissions laws and when a vehicle hits 100,000 kilometers it must pass inspection where it may have to meet original emission limits.
Most people in Japan just get a new car at that point.

Apparently, the Japanese take way better care of their cars in general and a JDM engine is far less likely to have been abused or neglected.
 
i think the dangly number one spark plug wire could be coralled by moving that wire clip from drivers side coil to right hand bolt on passenger side coil and tucking wire into what appears to be wire holder molded into driver side coil that is not being used. overflow jug overfilled. +2 on engine cover bolts on valve cover that engine cover mounts to. i like the cover. i see missing harness clip that goes into hole next to front post for engine cover on passenger side. you could use reusable zipties on wiring harness mounting points to secure it/them. keep checking for loose bolts everywhere since finding ones that multiple people missed. other than that, seems your car has been made whole again, maybe better off in a couple of ways. hope that is the case in long run.
 
Last edited:
If it is a JDM FSDE, then you have to use minimum 95RON Gas. Different compression (higher) to USDM FSDE. The USDM also use a different ECU to JDM/AUDM. I'm not 100% sure how, or if, this effects the timing, and the type of fuel you should use. If you hear knocking, then you definitely need higher RON fuel.
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
i think the dangly number one spark plug wire could be coralled by moving that wire clip from drivers side coil to right hand bolt on passenger side coil and tucking wire into what appears to be wire holder molded into driver side coil that is not being used. overflow jug overfilled. +2 on engine cover bolts on valve cover that engine cover mounts to. i like the cover. i see missing harness clip that goes into hole next to front post for engine cover on passenger side. you could use reusable zipties on wiring harness mounting points to secure it/them. keep checking for loose bolts everywhere since finding ones that multiple people missed. other than that, seems your car has been made whole again, maybe better off in a couple of ways. hope that is the case in long run.
Click to expand...

Yep, I've cleaned up a couple things since. I mainly wanted to take pics so you guys could see it as delivered. I luckily had a used Hitachi-brand coil in my closet so I was able to replace the gray, off-brand one that was on the engine. I've got DENSO wires coming from Amazon that should arrive by May (delayed due to COVID 19?). Do those reusable zip-ties you spoke of anchor to the engine like the originals? I need to look for those.

Oh, and an update on the towing damage. Agero, State Farm's roadside assistance vendor, got back to me and denied my damage claim. Agero and the local towing company are definitely shady. The Agero gal who handled my case called me a few times but hung up every time she got me in person. Once she got my voice mail, she left the denial message. I'll follow up with State Farm, since they contracted me out to Agero in the first place. I can say one thing for certain: If you ever have your car towed by anyone, go with the car to the mechanic/dealership/home/wherever. Do not just let them haul it away unattended it as these wrecker guys are schmucks.
 
Last edited:
JazzySP20 said:
If it is a JDM FSDE, then you have to use minimum 95RON Gas. Different compression (higher) to USDM FSDE. The USDM also use a different ECU to JDM/AUDM. I'm not 100% sure how, or if, this effects the timing, and the type of fuel you should use. If you hear knocking, then you definitely need higher RON fuel.
Click to expand...

I recall reading about potential differences with JDM engines and also that there may be no difference whatsoever in some cases with the JDM FS-DE. It's not pinging on regular gas now, so I think I have just a "regular" FS-DE engine in there. Please share any links if you have them handy on whether or not all JDM engines require/benefit from higher-octane fuel.
 
Last edited:
The main differences between the USDM FSDE and the AU/JDM FSDE are the compression ratios, and the intake camshaft. USDM compression ratio = 9.1:1. AU/JDM compression ratio = 9.7:1. Intake camshaft is different as mentioned.
Note: Australian and Japanese FSDE spec's are the same. Fuel flap and owners manual specifies 95RON.

FSDE US vs JDM spec's.

TypeFS-DE (US/Canada)FS-DE (AU/JDM)
Displacement1991cc
Cylinders4
ValvetrainDOHC 16 valve, direct shim over tappet actuation, timing belt
Horsepower130hp @ 6000r/min (SAE net)
[MP3 (FS9N): 140hp @ 6000r/min (SAE net)]		131hp (98kW) @ 6000r/min (DIN net)
Torque135lbs/ft @ 4000r/min (SAE net) [MP3 (FS9N): 142lbs/ft @ 4500r/min (SAE net)]126lbs/ft (174Nm) @ 4000r/min (DIN net)
Bore & Stroke83mm x 92mm
Compression Ratio9.1:19.7:1
Induction TypeNatural
Redline6500r/min
Alternator output12V 80A
Ignition typedistributor-less coil pack
Fuel systemMultipoint EFI
Fuel injector rate285ml/min
Manual Transmission typeG15M-R
Valve Timing
Intake cam duration230° @ 0.003"241° @ 0.003"
Intake cam opening2° BTDC5° BTDC
Intake cam closing48° ABDC56° ABDC
Intake cam lobe height43.700mm (1.7205")
Intake cam base circle35.052mm (1.380")
Intake valve lift8.6487mm (0.3405")
Exhaust cam duration230° @ 0.003"
Exhaust cam opening48° BBDC
Exhaust cam closing2° ATDC
Exhaust cam lobe height43.225mm (1.7018")
Exhaust cam base circle35.052mm (1.380")
Exhaust valve lift8.1737mm (0.3218")
Valve overlap4°7°

(From: http://www.protegefaq.net/)
 
So the new exhaust noise (video/audio above)... I removed or massively loosened all three engine compartment exhaust shields (the one over the exhaust manifold, the one over the first CAT, and the one where the exhaust bends towards the rear of the car). The noise didn't change at all, so I got under the car while my neighbor tapped the accelerator pedal. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the noise may be coming from just past that third exhaust shield... at the joining of two pipes secured with two spring-loaded bolts. It's either metal vibrating or actual exhaust gas escaping from that junction that's making the noise. I don't have a pic, but will haul my ramps out to the parking lot I need to provide one. :)

Does anyone have experience with eliminating the noise in my video above at that location?
 
You could have that connection cut out and have something like this welded in.

The damn donut gasket loves to leak anyway.


 
Can I replace the donut gasket? I think I came across one post discussing that.

Also, I'm in the process of leaving my insurance company (State Farm) after 34 years for how poorly they handled (or didn't handle) the damage caused by the wrecker guy.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

New Posts

Back