OFFICIAL: AWR Header Group Buy!!! This GB is a ONE TIME DEAL!!!

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Well, I just finished test fitting the header. Mine went on just fine. I've got an SLS midpipe and it went together perfectly. I'm about a 1/4" away from my lower radiator hose. I'm going to put some heat tape on it, just in case.

The only issue I have is getting the nut for the EGR fitting to bite. It isn't perfectly lined up. Just a hair off. I ran out of daylight and it is too cold, but it should be an easy fix tomorrow morning.
 
Might want to loosen the header a bit. Then tighten the EGR first, then the header. This was a problem members had with the obx
 
Argh! My stupid ERG bolt is not coming off. It's taking the entire screw from the manifold with it. Why would they make a screw that wasn't attached/welded to the manifold?
 
Egleye5 said:
Was going to install mine tonight but I broke my torque wrench when trying to get the rear O2 sensor out. The front came out fine, but the rear was apparently a bit more stubborn and the head of the ratchet anvil shattered. Piece of crap wasnt even anywhere near its max range either. Oh, well I have been wanting a new one anyway. I plan on getting a Precision Instrument Dial Indicating type.
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For future reference: don't use your torque wrench for anything other than oh...I don't know....torquing a fastener. Just sayin'
 
Dimitrios said:
For future reference: don't use your torque wrench for anything other than oh...I don't know....torquing a fastener. Just sayin'
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Yes, well using a breaker bar on something like an O2 sensor that is stuck can have a tendency to give someone a broken O2 sensor. I would rather know that I am not putting a retarded amount of torque on the device. And there is a reason they make bidirectional torque wrenches, and it isnt just for the random reverse threaded fasteners. Just sayin' You can actually screw things up by applying too much torque to free it when stuck. It is a much better course of action to try first applying the expected torque repeatedly with some WD-40 to try and free it, and then incrementally raise the torque. This is of course if the torque wrench doesnt break.
 
br289165 said:
It shouldnt make contact,mine doesn't it's about 1/3 " from the header tube at it's closest point. Recheck your install.PM me if you need advice, I've got pics.
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I agree that it shouldnt. However, it does. I am not sure what you think I should recheck on the install... If you can give me some specific recommendations that would be appreciated. The header lines up with everything perfectly. Every fastener on the block is seated and torqued proper, which leaves no ability for it to be aligned any differently. Since the header can only sit one way when mounted against the block dont reckon I can adjust it by a reinstall, it will have to sit the same way. The problem is most likely with slight deviations between the tube bends across the 10 headers that he made. Tony essentially said as much when I showed my images of it. He said the tubes are running too low. However he says he can cut and adjust a water outlet for me to install that will not point straight into the header.
 
Anythings possible. Maybe the hose is on wrong, causing the curve to be in wrong place. Or try a different hose,universal,straight, same diameter,maybe longer, that will bend further out.
Use PB blaster liberally, a few times overnight on the O2 sensors.
 
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br289165 said:
Anythings possible. Maybe the hose is on wrong, causing the curve to be in wrong place. Or try a different hose,universal,straight, same diameter,maybe longer, that will bend further out.
Use PB blaster liberally, a few times overnight on the O2 sensors.
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I got the O2 sensor out, it was stuck and required some force, but that wasn't the problem. The issue was that the wrench broke well before it should have. As for the hose.. As I said it is making contact at the water outlet/thermostat housing cover where the hose attaches. Therefore it requires an altered/machined water outlet to gain clearance. No matter the hose it will still make contact since it touches before it even has a chance to be diverted away.
 
Gotcha
Egleye5 said:
I got the O2 sensor out, it was stuck and required some force, but that wasn't the problem. The issue was that the wrench broke well before it should have. As for the hose.. As I said it is making contact at the water outlet/thermostat housing cover where the hose attaches. Therefore it requires an altered/machined water outlet to gain clearance. No matter the hose it will still make contact since it touches before it even has a chance to be diverted away.
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Did this group buy come together? I spoke with Tony last month. He, but he didn't mention this. If anyone received their header and was not able to use it please contact me. I am looking for one for the Reparto Corse Protege race car.

Thanks!
 
I wish I would have been more active when this came about. I'd be interested if someone wants to sell theirs.
Anyone ever get their header on? Any noticable difference?
 
Egleye5 said:
So I installed my header today and it is contacting my lower radiator hose. It is actually where the hose connects with the block so I cant even try and move the hose out of the way since it is at the point that it sleeves over the metal portion. Anyone else have this issue or know a way to work through it?
Click to expand...

I finally got around to installing the AWR header this week (I'm slow at installing stuff...) I just want to confirm that I'm having the same problem with the lower rad hose hitting the left-most tube on the header. The heat started to melt the rubber. I used a bunch of zip-ties to pull the hose away from the header until I had time install some Thermo-tec copper wrap (http://www.thermotec.com/products/11031-generation-ii-copper-header-wrap.html). I wrapped both the header pipe and the coolant hose to reduce the heat transfer.

I've already ceramic-coated the header so I'm not sending it back to AWR. I'm going to try using the thermostat cover from the JDM FS engine because it actually points away from the header. The only problem is that it requires a hose with a 1.5" I.D. My OEM coolant hose is slightly smaller than that.

Interesting, I just checked the Factory Service Manual (pg. 1-12-5) and it shows both the ZM and FS thermostat ports pointing to the left. I wonder if Mazda released two versions of this thermostat cover. This could explain why only some of us are having clearance issues.

J.
 
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