nopi curse?!?!

Ryan

Member
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03 Spicy Orange MSP
anyone else get the nopi curse?

second day in atlanta i started noticing a knocking sound on my msp, so i popped the hood, definate knocking, it goes away when i accelerate, its only heard during idle.

I have asked a few friends, they think the heatshield is loose, we checked my oil, and it was fine. The knocking isn't coming from the valve cover, it seems to be comming from behind the heatshield...

I guess i'll get out there tomorrow take off the heatshield see whats up, maybe its loose who knows..

any other possiblities of what could be causing this?
 
Under the valve cover you say...

Loose rocker arms? Were you driving hard or reving hard on your way there or back?
 
i must be stupid, but that wimpy heat shield couldnt cause a knocking that could be heard in the cab could it?
 
I have no idea, let us know what happens. I wonder if we're just all paranoid about detonation now that we have the reflash.
 
no no .. guys .. this s*** is bad .. i drove it last night .... and let me tell you .. its fubar'd ... this problem is either a seriously stretched timing chain and or the connecting rod, or last i can say it might even be the valve guides are toasted since it sounds as if he has two or more golf balls rolling around while at an idle up to 1,000 rpm and when you hold her steady at 1,000 and let off it is worse as it drops in idle .. but under normal driving (hint hint ryan) "NORMAL" it is smooth as a chicks ass .. .. so I remember with my prelude I romped the s*** out of it on the way to New Hampshire in an emergancy and it sounded very similair to what Ryan has and i brought it in and it was the Valves comming loose.. so lets see what you all think now ..lets help out Ryan and give him some good words on it
 
MP5Raycer said:
no no .. guys .. this s*** is bad .. i drove it last night .... and let me tell you .. its fubar'd ... this problem is either a seriously stretched timing chain and or the connecting rod, or last i can say it might even be the valve guides are toasted since it sounds as if he has two or more golf balls rolling around while at an idle up to 1,000 rpm and when you hold her steady at 1,000 and let off it is worse as it drops in idle .. but under normal driving (hint hint ryan) "NORMAL" it is smooth as a chicks ass .. .. so I remember with my prelude I romped the s*** out of it on the way to New Hampshire in an emergancy and it sounded very similair to what Ryan has and i brought it in and it was the Valves comming loose.. so lets see what you all think now ..lets help out Ryan and give him some good words on it

Try doing a compression test....
 
well, guys to be honost, right now im in a different factor... to be real about it the car means nothing to me now.. i dunno if i even want the car anymore.. or what im gonna do.. i been trying to figure a way out of the whole thing but im in debt up to my ******* neck.. everyway i look at it.. im stuck with a car, that even daily driving is getting worse and worse.. so basically what im gonna do i think is bring it back to stock forum take it to mazda if they don't void the warenty great, if they do, then screw them i'll pay have it fixed then im just gonna do double payment for about 4 months to knock down what i owe on it.. then im gonna trade it in for somethign else,, dunno what yet.. but we'll see.. anyways thanks for the support l8r.
 
welp took my car in the shop today... and there gonna replace my sub under warrenty, also the shift nob were the leather is pealing off agian... and they will be turning my brakes under warrenty... however my "my engine is no longer under warrenty" they have yet to prove why... and i have yet to ask, but apparently they wanna try the simplest thing first, they are saying that the 10w30 oil and the fram oil filter i used are a bad combonation they wanna put a mazda high flow oil filter, and 5w20 i believe... apparently the weight of the oil i was using and the filter i was using was not getting enuf flow... this is what they wanna try first.. 25 bucks for the oil change is what there gonna charge me... they wanna do this b4 they check it further... also they said they will run my vin and if the ecu flash is for my car their gonna do that too.. this is what he said... we all know the flash is for my car.. so they will be doing that if they havent when i go to pick up the car... they are gonna have to order the shift nob and the sub unit....

lets hope its just what they say it is.. but somehow i find that hard to believe.. so we'll see what happens i'll drop u guys a line as to weather that worked or not.

l8r
 
is it really "not" knocking above idle, or is it that you just can't hear it over exhaust or other engine noise?
 
i dont think its knocking at all over 1,000 rpms... i cant hear it i dont have exhaust and no major mod's that would prohibit me from hearing ... the injen really doesn't start sucking hard enuf to cover up the knocking until 3k. but from 1200 - 3000 were i could hear really well there is no knocking...
 
Ryan

that's BS about the OIL. The freaking manual says to run 10w30. That's what I'm running. Please keep us posted... i'm sorry to hear about this :(
 
I don't have a knocking per say just a slight tapping when i crank it after a good nights sleep it goes away as soon as the car warms up I am not sure what it is either.
 
welp looks at though its the motor mazda says that i can buy a new motor for around $4,755.95 and that if they install the motor as it was from the factory then i will retain my warrenty, if they install it like it currently is then i will retain no warrenty and im basically on my own.. so im heading to my bank probably on wednesday my day off, and seeing what i can get.. and what its gonna cost me per month ontop of my current car payment... so i should be getting my car fixed, i think ive learned my lesson for awhile, im gonna have them install it stock, and i'll keep the car that way until 36,000 miles are on it, and my warrenty is gone... then i will mod it agian this time doing it the right way... so basically im probably gonna have about 650-750 bucks amonth tied up into my car paying for the motor and the car payments itself. live and learn the hard way.. i can have the motor paid off in approximately 8 - 10 months...
 
funnylittlman said:
Ryan

that's BS about the OIL. The freaking manual says to run 10w30. That's what I'm running. Please keep us posted... i'm sorry to hear about this :(

The quality of the oil can make a big difference and cause a lot valve noise. Fram filters have been shown to be pretty bad, too.
 
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