nooby question

[SGT VEGAS 843]

Okay so I took my basic 4cyl 2005 mazda 6 to the dealership because it was cutting off at stop lights. initially they said it was the o2 censor and that they got a lean "code" but then changed their minds and replaced the fuel pump. the problem persisted and so i took it back to the dealership except they had permanently shut their doors for business. I went to the next closest dealership where they said they could not get it to code. The problem still persisted i took it back and they said i had to get some expensive service called an ISS service as it was the ethanol in the fuel causing my problem. He said it was clogging up the injectors. I paid for that service and for the transmission fluid to be changed as the car was also shifting roughly. I left having paid $338.05 for maintenance items. He additionally told me that they were not able to produce any codes after performing this service. Well my car problems persisted. I called back and said that my car was still acting up and I needed to bring it back in. I took another day off of work and took my car back to Stokes. The service guy told me that the maintenance item had helped to diagnose the problem and that it was my solenoid valve that was sticking. So they allegedly replced that or cleaned it not sure which. well it has only been 3000 miles and my car is starting to act up again. At the direction of the dealership i have been putting injector cleaner in my fuel about every 4th tank of gas.

what the car is doing specifically is that when in D or p the engine seems to be struggling for air or fuel. IT will idle slightly above 750 and seem smooth but then drop suddenly to 500 for a second and then back up to 750 -800 rpm range. It makes it feel really rough. kind of like when you try to start moving in 3rd gear. anyhow, as you can probably tell from this post I am not a mechanic but I feel as if the dealership is just not wanting to fix the item because it will be expensive. any ideas of what you think this problem may be or anything you have heard that you might think help me diagnose this situation will be much appreciated.

 

[BoostedSpd6]

what the car is doing specifically is that when in D or p the engine seems to be struggling for air or fuel. IT will idle slightly above 750 and seem smooth but then drop suddenly to 500 for a second and then back up to 750 -800 rpm range. It makes it feel really rough. kind of like when you try to start moving in 3rd gear. anyhow, as you can probably tell from this post I am not a mechanic but I feel as if the dealership is just not wanting to fix the item because it will be expensive. any ideas of what you think this problem may be or anything you have heard that you might think help me diagnose this situation will be much appreciated.

thats sounds like me when i had a vaccum leak.. i could just be that..

 

[chiefmg]

It actually sounds like a clogged EGR valve. I don't have any experience with the 4 cylinder on a 6, but on my Protege the rough idle is exactly what happens when the EGR valve is dirty. Not sure what solenoid valve they would have addressed, but you might try looking at the EGR valve. If it was the EGR valve they worked on, if they didn't clean it properly then it wouldn't take too many miles before you started seeing the problem again. You should be able to tell what they did from your service invoice.

As for the rest of the work they performed, it sounds like they were playing hit or miss. One of the many reasons why I do my own work.

 

[SGT VEGAS 843]

yeah i figured they were just doing trial and error at my expense. The guys here are really sleazy slick talking types.

I live 50 miles from the closest dealership so what would you suggest that I do to diagnose the problem? Now that I am past 50,000 miles they want me to pay for the problem even though it is the same thing that they were servicing before, when it was under warranty. I think that was their plan the whole time. fix it long enough to get past the warranty statute of limitations.

 

[Blendercloud]

thats sounds like me when i had a vaccum leak.. i could just be that..

I was thinking the same thing Boosted.

OP, does the transmission shift sluggishly when it's acting up?

 

[Atreyu3388]

From the sound of it, I would lean more towards the EGR valve. Also, if you're dealing with a 50 mile drive to your dealership it would probably be cheaper to just buy a new EGR valve rather than running to and fro. Any car I've ever had or worked on, the EGR valve is a relatively cheap part. ($50-$80)

Now I can't speak from experience with this car, but EGR replacements are usually just a 10-15 minute job. Who knows what kinda crazy s*** Ford/Mazda cooked up on these though.

Look into that though, just buying your own and installing it yourself. Hope this helps.

 

[Blendercloud]

From the sound of it, I would lean more towards the EGR valve. Also, if you're dealing with a 50 mile drive to your dealership it would probably be cheaper to just buy a new EGR valve rather than running to and fro. Any car I've ever had or worked on, the EGR valve is a relatively cheap part. ($50-$80)

Now I can't speak from experience with this car, but EGR replacements are usually just a 10-15 minute job. Who knows what kinda crazy s*** Ford/Mazda cooked up on these though.

Look into that though, just buying your own and installing it yourself. Hope this helps.

I agree with this advice. OP, also look around for any lines that may be accidently unhooked or cracking/rotted. Since you're already going to be under the hood, you might as well give a good visual inspection.

 

[SGT VEGAS 843]

Excellent. I appreciate all the great advice. I am going to go to O'reilly or Advanced today to check on getting a new EGR valve and a manual. I guess this is myindoctrination in to tuning LOL. I bet this is how it all starts.

I just can't believe that the dealership didn't suggest this. actually I can. I should have known. Again I appreciate all the great help and responses I have received. I will let you know how it works out.

Blender, the transmission seems to shift fine after having the fluid changed. It only sputters when the car is sitting still at a traffic light or in park.

 

[Blendercloud]

Excellent. I appreciate all the great advice. I am going to go to O'reilly or Advanced today to check on getting a new EGR valve and a manual. I guess this is myindoctrination in to tuning LOL. I bet this is how it all starts.

I just can't believe that the dealership didn't suggest this. actually I can. I should have known. Again I appreciate all the great help and responses I have received. I will let you know how it works out.

Blender, the transmission seems to shift fine after having the fluid changed. It only sputters when the car is sitting still at a traffic light or in park.

Good luck! Be sure to come back and help us by letting us know how you solved the problem. You're probably not the only one with this issue.