Newbie needs HELP!

westerboyz

Member
:
2002 mazda protege 5
Sorry to bring this topic up again, but ive searched through all the threads in this site and found some information but i have many questions still.
I have recently installed the OBX header on my 2002 P5. Things went well until i realized that the flange of the new header is hitting the oil pan. My car is an auto but it still should fit. My next problem-the car seems like it has less torque of the line, but it revs quicker and has more high rpm power. Could this be from the lack of back-pressure by rmoving the pre-cat? Also i have not done the CEL fix yet. I know that the ecu is reading a lower temp. at the 2nd O2 plug, so the ecu is dumping in more fuel. This i have been told can screw with the auto shifting correctly and even with the ABS! My question is with the CEL fix will the ecu be reading normal cat temp. or whats the deal? Also i have been told that puling the - bat. terminal will not reset the ecu, that it only works on 90s cars, and you have to get it reset with a computer.
 
I'm trying to figure out if it would be worth it to put more money in and get it fixed right or if i should go back to stock.
 
I extended my O2 wires ind installed my O2 sensor behind the CAT in the mid pipe. No CEL's for me.

You ECU is always updating itself learning the elements in which your car is running. Removing the battery cables for about an hour will re-set your ECU. When you hook up power to the car the ECU will have to relearn all your sensors. I've done it with every power adding bolt on that I've done.
 
the loss of torque in the low end is because of the header. but it pulls much harder in the mid-top end. second gear is now chirpable more often =)

i had no problems witht he flange hitting the oil pan at all, it did however push my exhaust back an inch or 2 that cuase it to bang against my chassis. i remedied this with some hose clamps on the exhaust hangers.
 
yup, i just did the cel fix a few min ago and the light is gone. Im prob. going to end up gettin a flex pipe put in forthe long term and having the o2 bung welded in the midpipe cat. And for the oil pan issue, i will file it down or have it cut. man, i didnt know what i was getting my self into when i bought this part. Not just "bolt on". Hey do you guys have any realatively cheap mods i can do to gain some torque? UDP maybee, or do i not want to go there?
 
oh and my P5 idles at about 400-500 rpm, is this normal , i thought it was higher before the header install....i think?
 
If you did not reset the ECU, you will have some issues for a while like low idle...etc...

To reset the ECU - disconnect the negative terminal...Pump the brakes like 4-5 times to discharge the capasitor, re-attach and viola...done...It will take about 100 miles for the computer to fully adjust to the changes, but you should reset it when doing any modifications...This will also clear out any CEL's for the time being....

The UDP is a fairly simple mod...check the how-to section for a write up...You'll need new belts and some have had a hard time with it, while others it's 1-2-3 easy...Same as with the header install...sometimes easy, sometimes a f*ckng pain....
 
Ya, ill look into it, but for now i need to take care of this header issue before it puts a hole in my oil pan.....then on to better things.
 
most parts build mid-high HP.. i have the UDP, it dos add the punch back into the lower end.. mid pipe will help mid hidh tq, and dont change the pipe size of the exhaust much or you will just to move the power band up the revs..you will make more power, but at a different point.. nice broad power band is your goal..cam gears might make a great upgrade for you as you can tune engine to make power in different places, thus being able to chang the power band a little..TQorHP.. etc..intake will help, but stay with smaller size pipes (ebay is great) and make sure its a CAI, the longer the runner(pipe) the more mide power it will make, short runner makes high only.. remember to build a car, is more then buying parts, it tunning it, building a car for a purpose, and if all those items work together then the outcome will be in you favor, if you have a two parts made to do different things then they dont work well together. so decide what you want from the car, where to improve apon first.. buy parts that taget those areas.. your money and time will be spent to its best effect, bring you the most enjoyment you can have from you car..welcome to the mazda forums
 
i have an aem sri on the car which is my fav mod. so far. But with this header it has been just a pain in my ass. I went today to get a flex pipe welded into the midpipe. The diam. of this was larger than the stock pipe. Now my car feels like it has lost a cosiderable amnt. of power all across the rpm range. I now have 300$ into this and i am super stressed. Im thinking of going back stock.
 
I do not have any good news for you sorry. I also own a 2002 P5 auto. This does not sound right at all. An obx header was my first mod for that car and it bolted right on with no issues and is nowhere near hitting the oil pan. It also bolted right up to stock exhaust without problems.

Edit: I will post pictures of my setup tomorrow when I get to another computer.
 
Last edited:
YA, i guess it is a hit or miss thing. It eather goes realy smoothly or is a pain.
Im still trying to figure out what to do. Should i go on with it or go stock. If i go on with it i will have to file down the flang on the header and prob. wont be able to sell it.(this is the real issue-the p5 is my main car and i have to decide soon before i get a hole in the oil pan) Either way im prob going to have to get rid of that flex joint in the midpipe(i think). Its just too big in diam...........What would you guys do in my situation. p.s.- im broke
 
perhaps you should send it back for another, mines an auto and my obx header fits fine..
 
OBX header on the 02 auto P5. Nowhere near the oil pan. Well I cannot say nowhere near It does end up pretty close but does not cause problems and I have had it on there for 30k miles.

P1010012-1.jpg

P1010011-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
So i think i found the root of all my problems.....My front-left motor mount is cracked, allowing the engine to shift to the right causing the bottom flange of the header to hit the oil pan. thanks StealthWyvern
 

New Threads and Articles

Back