New to Forum from R32, Impressions and Questions

So finally got THE hot little hatch that all the magazine/webs have been raving about for two years....and I'm glad I paid under MSRP this time!

I came from 08 R32 (hiccup issues). I am quite happy with the switch, they are quite different cars even though from some web clips it does seem like they are rivals.

Since I drove both cars for quite some time now, here are my personal impressions on R32/MS3;

- MS3 definitely picks up better. R32 is milder, in better words, smooth acceleration even with sport shifting mode. And MS3 is a few MPG better. I can't even imagine what's like with SRI.
- I'm glad MS3 is not that loud. I actually like the fact the exhaust is muffled with turbo. I loved the R32's exhaust but you can rev so much with automatic. R32 felt louder under full throttle.
- I think MS3 likes to go tight corners. R32 didn't like it too much. In town R32 feels heavy, combined with rough ride. I felt the weight of the car and I kept forcing to turn. But both cars doesn't feel as nimble as my old P5. I wish I can make MS3 to behave like P5.
- MS3's body feels a bit softer to me. And I want to stiffen up if possible. MS3 doesn't have the rock solid feel of R32. I feel this effect even more when I'm trying to control torque steer on rough on-ramps, etc.
- Torque steer is actually quite scary to me, coming from a semi-AWD car. I never appreciated the AWDness of R32 since everyone said it's a fake AWD. But now I wish MS3 had that Haldex option. I probably need more getting used to and knowing when to go full throttle. On 3rd gear, whether the MS3 goes straight or not really depends on the road surface. I am hoping if any mods will improve this?
- Practical issues, turning radius on MS3 feels huge. I read somewhere this is partly due to thick drive shafts for MS3 specific. MS3 is bigger and hatch has so much more space than Golfs/A3s.
- 9 grand less, but MS3 stereo sounds much better (w/bose). R32 was so bad I had to take the door apart and fix rattling and deadning (and I'm not an audiophile)

And I have a few questions,

1) Lumber support on my seat is useless. If I flip the lever, it comes back after 5 seconds. Any fixes (other than jamming quarters)?
2) How come I can't hear the turbo or purge valve at all? Does aftermarket intake will make audible?
3) Why can't I shift MS3 like Civic SI during vtec? Some gears on MS3 feels disconnected especially between 1st-2nd and 5th-6th. I still can't figure out which rpm to shift and keep accelerating smoothly.
4) I heard loud buzzer noise a few times coming from front drivetrain when the car was almost stopping/going. It sounded like power-steering pump dying but I wasn't steering. Any thoughts?

I mentioned in the impressions but I wanted to make MS3 body to feel bit stiffer and allow tighter, quick steering like P5 did. I also wish suspensions moved more than the body itself flexing.
What body reinforcement and mounts should I consider?

Nice to meet you all....
 
welcome.. and i can answer one of your questions for you. get an intake (cold air or short ram personal pref) and a blow off valve and youll hear the turbo spool and the waste gate :) i bought a fugita cold air and then hacked off the bottom part to make it a sri cheapest solution.. enjoy your new toy
 
Upgraded rear motor mount and shortshifter will help you feel more precise and connected with your shifts.

And welcome to the forums!
 
your R32 was an automatic??? Or do you mean a paddle shift? I was thinking all the R32 had paddle shifters on the steering wheel.

My dislike on the MS3 is the 4 doors, would have preferred a coupe like the R32 as I like a smaller car as opposed to a boat.

As for modding, an intake will give the most bang for the buck as it will on any turbo car, the aftermarket bov will be much louder than the stock one. I have a thread on the one that I have as well as pics and videos of the sounds that it makes while stopped and driving. The rear motor mount will definately stiffen up the shifting which makes the car m,uch easier to drive and eliminates a good amount of wheelhop you mentioned you are getting. Short shifters are god-awefully priced. You can manage without it, but putting in the stiffer twm shifter bushings will also give a much stronger shift/feel and makes the car nicer to drive.

Get some springs to avoid the excessive height of the car and ease the bodyroll that you get in turns. This car is very tall so it will definately roll around corners, not only because the higher suspension but the skinny tires that come on the car as well. Lowering the car will give a better center of gravity and eliminate a good amount of bodyroll, adding wider tires will also help in the grip department.

Good luck on your whip, I like the R32 myself, I was in the market for one of those or a nice GTI but they are extremely overpriced, and my wife owns a pimped out Jetta and it costs a grip for repairs at VW dealerships!!! :(
 
Intake and MM -do you take mods off even for regular maintainance?

Thanks guys/girls for response and input.

Sounds like SRI and MM to me to start with!
I actually don't want to lower my car yet though, since I don't have to worry about scraping under as much as I did with R32. However I agree that the car sits too high to the ground and it has floating feel to it.

My R32 was DSG w/ steering paddles, 5000 of them came to US only with that choice for 08 year. After owning 2 DSG cars, I never felt DSG can replace true stick with crutch.
I really wanted to rev R32 sometimes for fun and "express my presence", but for Automatics/DSG's you have to put it in N to do that...how lame can that be?
I also did not like following cars closely with DSG. It just doesn't have delicate speed control of manual and it doesn't provide a lot of creep either, which makes it very difficult to follow cars at slow speed in traffic. This did so more in 2.0T engine A3 than 3.2engine R32. It was more prone to getting cut in by some cars since I always leave space in front of my car.

My R32 had somewhat-famous hiccup issues under hot weather. VW of America is still not officially admitting the problem and numerous owners are out there without official fix. I was also denied by a dealer playing dumb/blind game. Oh well that's typical for VW I guess.

Has anyone tried body reinforcement parts by AutoExe? They look pretty nice, but wondering if they are functional.

Do you guys leave light-tune mods when you take it to the dealer for regular service, or is it safe to take all of them off (i.e. SRI) so that they won't keep a record of what you have in your car? Since I live in a place that I can't even change my oil, and I can't modify cars at all in my neighborhood, if I find a chance to mod somewhere, that will most likely stay unless I have a serious problem..
 
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Thanks guys/girls for response and input.

My R32 was DSG, it only came with that choice for 08 year. After owning 2 DSG cars, I never felt DSG can replace true stick with crutch.
I really wanted to rev R32 sometimes for fun and "express my presence", but for Automatics/DSG's you have to put it in N to do that...how lame can that be?
I also did not like following cars closely with DSG. It just doesn't have delicate speed control of manual and it doesn't provide a lot of creep either, which makes R32 very difficult to follow cars at slow speed in traffic. This did so more in 2.0T engine A3 than 3.2engine R32.
My car was more prone to getting cut in by some cars since I always leave space in front of my car.

My R32 had somewhat-famous hiccup issues under hot weather. VW of America is still not officially admitting the problem and numerous owners are out there without official fix. I was also denied by a dealer playing dumb/blind game. Oh well that's typical for VW I guess.

I will definitely start with SRI and maybe MM. Has anyone tried body reinforcement parts by AutoExe? They look pretty nice, but wondering if they are functional.

Do you guys leave light-tune mods when you take it to the dealer for regular service, or is it safe to take all of them off (i.e. SRI) so that they won't keep a record of what you have in your car? Since I can't modify cars at all in my neighborhood, if I find a chance to mod that will most likely stay unless I have a serious problem..


AutoExe is JDM, so they are ridiculously pricy. DG motorsports has some parts out for our car also, but they are pretty pricy too. nextmod.com has a few things + replicas.

As for mods, it all depends on the dealerships. Ask around and maybe someone will use the same dealership as you and can tell you.
 
AutoExe is JDM,

I am a JDM myself so no problem there :) Expensive for reason? I'm not sure. But still can't determine if they actually help after reading their official website.
I tried their CF intake and earthing to P5 before, which just made the car louder but nothing else in practical driving.
I guess I can look up forums/blogs in Japan, but often times they live in a world of placebos, since they spend fortune getting their mod.
 
If the R32 had 5 doors, a proper manual, a bigger v6 and a cheaper price it would be the perfect car. Or if the ms3 had the 3.7l v6 and awd without costing more...I guess no one will ever build exactly what I want, but the ms3 comes close.
 
your R32 was an automatic??? Or do you mean a paddle shift? I was thinking all the R32 had paddle shifters on the steering wheel.

My dislike on the MS3 is the 4 doors, would have preferred a coupe like the R32 as I like a smaller car as opposed to a boat.

As for modding, an intake will give the most bang for the buck as it will on any turbo car, the aftermarket bov will be much louder than the stock one. I have a thread on the one that I have as well as pics and videos of the sounds that it makes while stopped and driving. The rear motor mount will definately stiffen up the shifting which makes the car m,uch easier to drive and eliminates a good amount of wheelhop you mentioned you are getting. Short shifters are god-awefully priced. You can manage without it, but putting in the stiffer twm shifter bushings will also give a much stronger shift/feel and makes the car nicer to drive.

Get some springs to avoid the excessive height of the car and ease the bodyroll that you get in turns. This car is very tall so it will definately roll around corners, not only because the higher suspension but the skinny tires that come on the car as well. Lowering the car will give a better center of gravity and eliminate a good amount of bodyroll, adding wider tires will also help in the grip department.

Good luck on your whip, I like the R32 myself, I was in the market for one of those or a nice GTI but they are extremely overpriced, and my wife owns a pimped out Jetta and it costs a grip for repairs at VW dealerships!!! :(

LOL wow.

Yeah OP welcome to the Mazda world.
 
shift 1000 earlier then redline.

Sorry, but sometimes thats not good. try your quarter miles, many people lose a .1+ seconds when they shift early from 4->5 gear. the early shifts are a good idea, but they do depend on the gearing ratio changes.
 
Sorry, but sometimes thats not good. try your quarter miles, many people lose a .1+ seconds when they shift early from 4->5 gear. the early shifts are a good idea, but they do depend on the gearing ratio changes.

Does anybody have recommended/preferable shift point chart for each gear?
 
yeah it 1000 earlier the 4-5 shift happens at the end of the 1/4 mile thats why it can be advantages to hold onto it to redline but if you have any mods and trapping a higher speed then stock its better to shift. if you get CAI/SRI it opens up your top end a little.
 
after i installed my coilovers, 70% of the torque steer was gone. it just feels like a completely different car in many aspects. im glad i chose them over springs this time.
 
I didn't bother to read all the posts so if this is a repeat please ignore.

If you like how quiet the car is, I would not suggest motormounts. All regardless of type will add loudness and vibrations.

My car was stock for 8 months. And I have added a twm sts w/bushings, forge BPV, Cobb SRI, and the car is a totally new animal. I have no problems with hitting gears at wot anymore. My next mod will motormount inserts, as I have been in a car, and the audilbe/vibration change is minimal.
 
I didn't bother to read all the posts so if this is a repeat please ignore.

If you like how quiet the car is, I would not suggest motormounts. All regardless of type will add loudness and vibrations.

My car was stock for 8 months. And I have added a twm sts w/bushings, forge BPV, Cobb SRI, and the car is a totally new animal. I have no problems with hitting gears at wot anymore. My next mod will motormount inserts, as I have been in a car, and the audilbe/vibration change is minimal.

Yes I read a few threads about rear motor mounts and saw some people mentioning about the noticeable vibration even from poly-type.
I think I will first try the corksport insert and SRI.

Another thing, I like my car stealth. I mean stealth as it looks like I just bought a regular Mazda 3 and I don't know jack about cars.
I am actually thinking about getting 17"oems and Mazda3 rear spoiler. I wont tint the car so it is completely off the radar.
Too bad the exhaust tip is welded-on. I wanted to take off but I guess I will black-out the chrome instead.
 
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