New sub

[Drox]

Just a quick question for you. I am thinking about upgrading the sub in the trunk because to me the stock one just does not sound very good or hit hard enough. I was going to just replace the sub itself and keep it going through the stock amp. What do you suggest in the way of 8in subs for a replacement?

 

[mspdfreak]

No question....JL 8w3v0. Best mod I ever made.

 

[Drox]

Thanks for the advice, what is the v0 on the end? I cannot find that. I have found one with v2 is that the same?

 

[neoturner]

might want to consider an amp and power/ground wire upgrade while you are at it. Certainly could just upgrade the speaker but you will only be addressing half the problem.

 

[Drox]

I apoligise, I have not had a whole lot of time to read these forums that much. What do you suggest as far as upgrades then? And my sub is blown so I need to replace it.

 

[neoturner]

how much were you thinking on spending on a sub?

 

[Drox]

well I was looking at the JL Audio 8W3V2 and I found it for around $150. I am not looking to spend a whole lot maybe around $200 max.

 

[Drox]

What do you guys think about this sub?
eD 9Kv.2

 

[neoturner]

I believe I've heard good things about this brand of sub.

what is the power on the stock amp?

I think it said 250W Max on it which means it is more like 150RMW.

The sub you posted has a RMW from 150 to 350RMW. That means you will be sucking every ounce out of that amp and it won't be pushing that sub hard enough. It will either blow your new sub or the amp will continue to degrade.

You want to match the sustainable power of an amp with the sub and the sound will hit hard and sound right. More power <> More sound, right power = right sound

 

[Drox]

Thanks a lot for the help noeturner. I appreciate it. What sub do you suggest then?

 

[Drox]

What about this Kicker Comp VR 8"
# 8" sub with dual 2-ohm voice coils
# injection-molded polymineral cone
# double-stitched, foam-ribbed Santoprene rubber surround
# silver-coated, stamped steel basket
# frequency response: 30-500 Hz
# power handling: 50-200 watts RMS
# peak power: 400 watts
# sensitivity: 83.1 dB

Or does this one still draw too much power for the amp?

 

[chuyler1]

Did you read this sticky before posting?

README: Stock MSP Stereo Warranty/Issues/Upgrades

We've been through this before. The 8W3 is the best when it comes to output, reliability, and durability. There is a reason JL Audio is a front runner when it comes to subwoofers. They are simply the best and they are worth the few extra dollars you are going to pay for them.

 

[neoturner]

Here is what I think you should do. Get the JL sub. Put it in and give it a listen for a while. Speakers degrade over time with distortion (lack of power in your case). Point being it won't hurt to listen to it with your stock amp for a bit.

If you like the sound and you don't notice any distortion when you play it at the levels you do then I think you will be good to go.

If you put it in there and are still needing something a little more solid sounding then I think you should consider the amp upgrade. Some time will pass and perhaps you'll have another stash of cash burning a hole in your pocket.

Check the fs forums often cause people sell amps there cheap all the time.

If you decide to get an amp and upgrade the wiring come back and we can help you with that. it's not that bad of an install at all.

 

[mspdfreak]

Also remember, the stock Kenwood sub runs at 8 ohms. When you put the JL in, it will run at 4 ohms. I had concerns this would cause the amp to overheat, putting out twice the power. But, even in the heat of summer in Mississippi, it always ran just fine. No overheating. I bought my 8w3v0 for $80 at a place called Stereo One in Memphis. It took about 15 minutes to install. Oh, and the grille won't fit anymore, but I didn't care. The difference in thump and quality was worth twice the price.

 

[vinnie mack]

I run a pioneer 10" in a ported box off the stock amp, it goes really good and yes the amp heats up very quickly. If i leave it cranked too long .. i.e. an hour drive the amp will pop a fuse.. otherwise i never have had a problem. It's my GFs sub but in the future i might just upgrade the 8".. mine is still fine

 

[chuyler1]

umm...
If the amp overheats it shouldn't 'pop a fuse'. It should turn off or go into protection mode. The fuse should only pop if a) the amp draws more current than the fuse is rated for or b) you short something out.