New owner, lots of questions...

SonOfOdin

Member
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2001 Mazda Protege MP3
Just bought a one-owner, 2001 Mazda Protege MP3 with 25k miles. Was a city car, so a bit dirty, but it'll clean up nicely. I've had 3 Miatas, needed something with a little practicality.

So I've been digging around this forum and have a few questions:

1. I have the Z828 head unit. Looking to take it out to install an aux-in until I settle on a new deck. Got the small, silver surround off. Then popped the dash surround off. Removed the two screws. I'm stuck there. Nothing budges. I tried wedging a screwdriver along the sides with no luck. Did some searches, found a lot of descriptions, but nothing really clear. Any hints?

2. Noticed the rear clunk during the test drive. Found a thread linking to the AXR kit. Am I good to go with just this, or should I also get new bushings? Change anything else while I'm down there?

3. Car is still riding on original rotors/pads. Saw a thread stating MS6/MZ6 calipers/rotors bolt right up. From RockAuto, should this do it for the calipers?

2006 MAZDA 6 S 3.0L 2968cc V6 FI : Brake/Wheel Hub : Caliper

A-1 CARDONE Part # 18B5000 More Info {Unloaded; [Caliper w/Installation Hardware] Reman.}
Front Left; OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket

A-1 CARDONE Part # 18B5001 More Info {Unloaded; [Caliper w/Installation Hardware] Reman.}
Front Right; OE Metal Piston;Supplied w/Mounting Bracket

$89 each.

4. Stereo - are there any custom-fit boxes for the trunk? Couldn't find any on Crutchfield. Looking for something a little nicer than a bass tube.

Thanks in advance.
 
welcome. what color is ur mp3 and where u located? u should sell it to me :D
 
In response to the rear clunk. I have the AXR kit and unfortunately it didn't fix my clunk, but it did make the car handle just a little bit better, so I'm still happy I got the kit.
You'll just have to get used to replacing the bushings a couple times a year. When I hear a clunk happening I flip the bushings around and I get a couple more months out of em before I need new ones.

Hope you enjoy your MP3! Do you still own miatas? I'm hoping to get one in the next year of two.
 
^You got the AXR fix and it didn't fix your clunk? You sure it's not coming from elsewhere or you maybe installed it wrong? First time I've ever heard of one not working.

To the OP; Bushings come with the AXR so you should be fine.
Not sure about the specific parts for the MZ6, but I say go with the MSP front brakes if only because it is plenty strong with a good set of tires/pads and is less prone to making the brake balance, well, less balanced.
 
I have the AXR fix and I still hear the clunk. I have to replace the end links though. Hopefully that will fix the problem.
 
1. Can't help ya much on the HU.. but would like to know the same. I have the same one and it stopped reading CDs, will need to be replaced soon.

2. AXR Clunk fix kit will work fine but is probably a bit overkill. I have it on my MP3 and the bushings do need to be regreased once a year. The bushing brackets come with a nipple for a grease gun, but the right kind of grease isn't sold in grease gun sizes.. so you still have to take off the entire bar (not a big deal if your endlinks don't seize like 90% do) to grease them.

At which point it's the same as regreasing urethane bushings, so in my personal opinion after owning the kit for 2 years.. it's not worth it. If I was to do it over, I would just get urethane bushings and grease them once or twice a year like I do with the AXR ones. It's a 15 minute job if your endlinks cooperate..

3. +1 on the MSP brake upgrade. the MZ6/MS6 brakes are "too" big and will likely cause an imbalance in the braking power. MSP brakes are plenty, as are stock ones if you're not boosted.

4. Not a whole lot out there. I went with the MSP rear sub deck in mine, and I like it. It sits right below the rear speakers and doesn't really take up any trunk space. However, it only accommodates small 8" subs.
 
1.Hmm AXR not working?? Mine works great and stopped the clunk and everything, also I grease my bushings every oil change.

2. Sub and sound - I've got a enclosed 12" P2 Rockford fosgate sub with a P-500 amp and sounds great!

3. Head unit - Kenwood Excelon KDC-X693 Looks awesome and gives a great and sound. It also comes with a USB hook up for your IPod or hard drive
 
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My problem with the AXR is the bushings are too far to the edges of the sway bar so they prematurely get worn into an oblong shape and thus they clunk.
 
Thanks for the responses guys.

Color is blue and I'm in South Jersey. I've had 3 Miatas, currently none are around at the moment, though the 05 Mazdaspeed is still in the family so I can drive it from time to time. I'm on the lookout for a specific 94-95 model to stick in the garage as the fun summer car.

Interesting the opinions on the AXR kit. KrayzieFox, thanks for the knowledgeable response, saved me the $200+.

Big brake thread - http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123753320

Found MZ6 calipers on ebay, pair for $60 + ship, will probably go with them despite the potential brake balance issues. The stock brakes aren't terrible, so worst case I could always swap them back on and resell.

I was looking for an integrated (Q-Logic type) box for the trunk. The bass tube is fine cause it's easily removable. I think I'll stick with the stock head unit for a bit, just gotta figure out how to get to the RCAs in the back.
 
2. AXR Clunk fix kit will work fine but is probably a bit overkill. I have it on my MP3 and the bushings do need to be regreased once a year. The bushing brackets come with a nipple for a grease gun, but the right kind of grease isn't sold in grease gun sizes.. so you still have to take off the entire bar (not a big deal if your endlinks don't seize like 90% do) to grease them.

At which point it's the same as regreasing urethane bushings, so in my personal opinion after owning the kit for 2 years.. it's not worth it. If I was to do it over, I would just get urethane bushings and grease them once or twice a year like I do with the AXR ones. It's a 15 minute job if your endlinks cooperate..
Why would you take off the bar? Do your bushings not have a slit in them so that you can slide them over the bar after having regreased them?? If not, then grease would be left all over the bar while sliding it back on...that would be kinda pointless

Just undo the two horseshoe brackets, let the bar hang by the endlinks take off the bushings, wipe off the excess old grease, regrease, put back on, put brackets back in, done! (I don't have the regreasable ones, and wouldn't want to anyway; I use Energy Suspension grease and I regrease them twice a year (beginning and end of summer).

The whole job takes me maybe 20 minutes at most.
 
Why would you take off the bar? Do your bushings not have a slit in them so that you can slide them over the bar after having regreased them?? If not, then grease would be left all over the bar while sliding it back on...that would be kinda pointless

Just undo the two horseshoe brackets, let the bar hang by the endlinks take off the bushings, wipe off the excess old grease, regrease, put back on, put brackets back in, done! (I don't have the regreasable ones, and wouldn't want to anyway; I use Energy Suspension grease and I regrease them twice a year (beginning and end of summer).

The whole job takes me maybe 20 minutes at most.

They do, and that's how I take them off.. I just remove the bar to make things easier. My endlinks never gave me any problems and come right off, so I just undo two more bolts so I can work in a more comfortable position.

And I also use the Energy grease, hence why I don't see the reason behind spending the money on the AXR kit. Just get good polyurethane bushings and use good (Energy) grease and you will have saved $200 and accomplished the same effect.
 
Well, except for the fact that there is still undue stress to the bushings and they will still eventually fail, and the fact that the bar makes the bar even stiffer and therefore changes how the swaybar works.
 
AXR kit was expensive but it was worth every penny to me. I don't put money into this car other than maintenance and repair so that's saying a lot.

I did buy aftermarket endlinks and regret that decision. I didn't like the factory design because mine seized up and I couldn't remove them without butchering them but I suspect if I keep this car much longer I'll put factory ones back on it.
 
Just bought a one-owner, 2001 Mazda Protege MP3 with 25k miles. Was a city car, so a bit dirty, but it'll clean up nicely. I've had 3 Miatas, needed something with a little practicality.


1. I have the Z828 head unit. Looking to take it out to install an aux-in until I settle on a new deck. Got the small, silver surround off. Then popped the dash surround off. Removed the two screws. I'm stuck there. Nothing budges. I tried wedging a screwdriver along the sides with no luck. Did some searches, found a lot of descriptions, but nothing really clear. Any hints?



There are several clips that hold the head unit in place, when I replaced mine I managed to get a thin screw driver in and bend them so the head unit can slide right out. Taking out the glove box will help with the visibility of the clips and maybe even the centre consol. One downfall for me was that after I installed the new deck it was hard for me to bend the clips back in place, so I had to do some homemade work to make sure the deck wasn't so loose in the metal shell. Hope it helps
 
Just bought a one-owner, 2001 Mazda Protege MP3 with 25k miles. Was a city car, so a bit dirty, but it'll clean up nicely. I've had 3 Miatas, needed something with a little practicality.


1. I have the Z828 head unit. Looking to take it out to install an aux-in until I settle on a new deck. Got the small, silver surround off. Then popped the dash surround off. Removed the two screws. I'm stuck there. Nothing budges. I tried wedging a screwdriver along the sides with no luck. Did some searches, found a lot of descriptions, but nothing really clear. Any hints?



There are several clips that hold the head unit in place, when I replaced mine I managed to get a thin screw driver in and bend them so the head unit can slide right out. Taking out the glove box will help with the visibility of the clips and maybe even the centre consol. One downfall for me was that after I installed the new deck it was hard for me to bend the clips back in place, so I had to do some homemade work to make sure the deck wasn't so loose in the metal shell. Hope it helps
 
good luck with that.. I had a hard time removing mine... I think I used some short and thin screw drider to them...
 
Congats on getting a low mileage MP3 and welcome. You need 2 thin peices of metal to push down each side of the deck to disengage the locking clips.

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If you have a PC you can use the blanks that cover where pc cards would go if they are flat.
 

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