New BC Suspension Install

There's the two bolts that hold the strut to the knuckle. The bottom one is round; the top one is an oval allowing camber adjustment. That's the one that "slips." If it slips again, I'll pick up a set of the bolts. I'm hoping the cam-bolt will set the camber, and then not let it slip. The guys really torqued them down this time, so hopefully it won't slip again.
 
Rogue, did you use the endlinks that BC racing supplied or the AWR? I just got the inverted version yesterday and will be installing them next week.
 
you were able to get the inverted ones? I was told they weren't available for the Protege :)

I used the AWR endlinks front and rear. Depending on how low you go, the BC ones should be fine.
 
^^^ So there's a new version out for the Protege? These are seriously moving up on my mod list and I'm trying to keep track. I'm also wondering what some good springrates would be. I'd prefer to go stiffer in the rear to try to keep the front end down but how stiff I don't know. I don't autocross but I like "fun runs" in the mountains where a good suspension setup is key to staying on the road. Would something like 8k/10k be too stiff for my setup? I have no problem with stiff/jarring/rattling rides (have AWR mounts all around).

This really is a whole new world for me when it comes to suspension. All I know is stiffer front = better turn response (to an extent) and stiffer rear = less understeer and vice versa. I know a little on the importance of camber and the Protege's issue of having positive camber during hard cornering but that's about it. Anyone know of some good online reading or something?
 
for street use I'd go 8/8. When you go to your mountain runs, just stiffen up the dampers.

If you go to a good alignment shop, you'll be able to get 3* of camber in the front and 2* in the rear. You probably don't need that for the street, but it's available to you.

Ryoga, mind taking a picture of your suspension. I'm curious as to what it looks like.
 
for street use I'd go 8/8. When you go to your mountain runs, just stiffen up the dampers.

If you go to a good alignment shop, you'll be able to get 3* of camber in the front and 2* in the rear. You probably don't need that for the street, but it's available to you.

Ryoga, mind taking a picture of your suspension. I'm curious as to what it looks like.

No problem I'll take a few pics when I get home tonight. If you check the Bc racing taiwan website they do list the inverted coilovers for the protege. However, it was something that needed to be custom ordered and dropshipped from taiwan. The total cost including shipping was about an extra $200.
 
^^^ Is this the RAM type? They have it listed for '94-'99 Proteges (weird date range) but if it fits a '99 then it should fit all 3rd Gens, right? By 'inverted', and looking at the pictures on the website, I assume you can adjust the damping at the bottom of the strut as opposed to the top?

EDIT: I just noticed even the Taiwan site doesn't have the Protege listed for the BR type. Outdated website?
 
inverted shocks have the main body at the top of the sock and the shaft connects to the knuckle / lower control arm (depending on the suspension design). The advantage of these is vastly reducing unspring weight, as the shock body becomes a part of the 'sprung' weight (ie: above the spring)
 
yes, it would be the RAM type. It also moves the strut body away from heat generated by the brakes (more of a racing application).

For sedans, having the adjust on the bottom is convenient, but may get clogged by road grime.
 
I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to come up with some kind of cap. I'm thinking something like those rubber caps that go on the ends of poles?
 
Some pics of the inverted BC racing coilovers
 

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Btw...the Large long box that is propping up the coilover contains the turbolife FMIC
 

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I'd like to see what one of them looks like disassembled w/ that dust cover off...
 
hmmm... inverted... nice but need to get something to cover the adjusment knob being that its totally exposed to the elements as mentioned earlier. I thought it was going to be a problem adjusting the rear because of the stupid seat belt bracket but it not cuz i didn't even put it back on :)

Have fun installing them... took me over five hours yesterday to do mine... well maybe because i had to share the air hose with my friend that was chopping up his S10 to fit 22's with air suspension
 
Make sure that the nut that is holding the adjustment knob is on tight (14mm wrench). If it works loose it will be gone since gravity pwns.
 
those look just like mine (spring on top). I'd say they aren't inverted. Who did you buy them from, who said you were getting the RAM setup?

edit: just saw the adjuster on the bottom. how are these inverted if the spring is still on top. isn't that where the strut piston is? or am I just seeing these wrong?
 
those looks nice but they do look the same. I'm sure you can fab up something to cap off the adjusting knob...a 5 gallon arrowhead cap, a balloon, anything. lol

man, I had no trouble installing these at all. me and my friend had these installed in less than 2 hours. No joke. Incredibly easy. Not to mention we've done this swap about 10 times on various P5's, so we are very familiar with these strut swaps.
I didnt put that seat belt bracket back on either. I did put the rubber dust covers back on though, as those can be removed quickly to adjust them.

Right now they are set on 7f/8r. (from soft setting)
 
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^so you went all the way counter clock wise then rotated 7f clicks and 8r click clockwise? I did the exact opposite from hard
 
yes sir. correct.

*edit*
is it possible that the term "inverted" may be just for the adjusting knob being inverted for easy access and everything is the same?
 
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