Need help replacing front break pads 03' P5

NJerseyP5

Member
Need some help folks. Took off wheels of my 03' P5 and was totally stumped as to what to do next.

My P5 is my 2nd car, before I had a honda and it was really easy to change my breaks.

Also, any suggestions as far as break pads go? Where to buy them online?
 
*brakes


Look in the how-to section, i think there might something there about changing pads.
 
I can't image the Honda front brakes are vastly different than the Protege's. I've done front brakes on a half a dozen or so of vehicles and they've all been essentially the same.
 
dealership

Ok, took it to the dealership for the pads. I needed to get it done ASAP and don't have the time right now.

So they're charging me $100, which isn't too bad. But get this, they wanted an extra $350 to put on new rotors! Is that insane? I inspected the rotors when I 1st tried to do the pads myself and they were totally fine. The car has 65,00 miles so I can't imagine they're in that bad of shape. There was about 1cm left on the pads so I know they didn't wear down to the metal and cut up the rotors. Dealership quoted me $96 a rotor, plus labor for the $350. Are they out of their minds?
 
Rotors will wear thin. The dealership probably mearsured the rotor thickness and saw they were either too low or getting too low.

Rotors from an autopart store are about $40 for a set.
 
Ok, took it to the dealership for the pads. I needed to get it done ASAP and don't have the time right now.

So they're charging me $100, which isn't too bad. But get this, they wanted an extra $350 to put on new rotors! Is that insane? I inspected the rotors when I 1st tried to do the pads myself and they were totally fine. The car has 65,00 miles so I can't imagine they're in that bad of shape. There was about 1cm left on the pads so I know they didn't wear down to the metal and cut up the rotors. Dealership quoted me $96 a rotor, plus labor for the $350. Are they out of their minds?

haha i did my own front rotors last weekend in a couple of hours for nothing more than the cost of the rotors ($70 with shipping on ebay) and the cost of the jack stands... do it your self it is so easy. take off the wheel... 2 bolts and an 8mm allen wrench later you are done. the how-to on this is great.
 
I have gotten protege brakes down to a fine art, I can do rotors and pads for both sides in less than 45 minutes (not counting any bleeding required)
 
I have gotten protege brakes down to a fine art, I can do rotors and pads for both sides in less than 45 minutes (not counting any bleeding required)

wanna do mine? (naughty) lol
 
of course my horse, text me the time and day you want them done and I'm all over that. it's the least I could do considering you are essentially opening your garage for my use.
 
Yeah, on my old cavalier, brakes were a snap....P5 has been a nightmare in comparison. Don't know if the previous owner used red threadlock or welded the damn caliper bolts and allen screw on, but the only thing I've been able to take off is the front driver's side 8mm allen screw. Rest of the s*** is on there tight and not budging. I'm thinking of taking it into a shop and just having them break the seal of the threads and then hand tighten so I can come home and get the job done myself. Pain in the arse it's been (bang)
 
is it bad to use a c clamp to push back the caliper? i didn't even mess with the allen screw. i did both front brakes with no problems.
 
as long as you make sure to open the bleed valve thing you'll be straight, use the old pad to push the piston in, don't apply the clamp directly to the pad.
 
you don't need to open the bleeder. FOR THE FRONTS a C clamp is fine. If you get the rears to move using a C-clamp alone, you broken your s*** lol. There's no allen screw on the fronts.
 
sweet, thanks for telling me. i'll have to look into the repair manual on how to do the rears then.
 
take off the 14mm bolt on the back side of the caliper. It uncovers the hex screw. Lefty loosey until it stops. Once you've got everything back together, righty tighty until it stops, then back it off 1/3-1/2 turn or so. Helps with the adjustment process.
 
i thought it ws a good idea to remove the resevior lid anytime messing w/ the brakes....not necessary?
 
reservoirs lid for sure. You don't need to open the bleeder screws tho.
 

New Threads and Articles

Back