need help removing rusted bolts on Stabilizer control link

Hi all, I'm looking for advise onhow to remove rusted/seized on bolts on the rear Stabilizer control link on my 03 P5. Both bolts are well rusted. I managed to get one to turn but it feels like the nut and bolt are turning together. I thought I read an older post about this problem but can't seem to find it now. I'm wondering if there is a trick to getting them off or will I have to cut off the rusted bolts? I tried soaking them with WD40( the only thing I have in the garage right now). Would liquid wench or something else work better?
 
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In my experience, Liquid Wrench does work better in some applications compared to WD-40.
 
Also try soaking them with PB blaster, thats what I use and it does the job for me...most of the time
 
Thanks for the fast reply guys. I kind of figured liquid wrench was better then WD but never used it.

Flash5, I don't know PB blaster. Is this a simlar to liquid wrench? Better?

My biggest concern is the spinning bolt. I'm thinking I'm going to have to cut it but I'm unsure. This is my first time changing the links. I know it's an easy job(if the dam bolts weren't rusted on).
 
When I typed Liquid Wrench in my reply, I meant PB Blaster. That's what I have in my garage. IIRC, it's basically the same thing: PB Blaster and Liquid Wrench.
 
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To stop the spinning, hold it with an allen wrench if you didn't know. And an impact wrench might be helpful to help knock off that rust. But the cutting wheels always work!
 
+1. I just took an angle grinder to mine, since I figured I'd be replacing them anyways. Just make sure not to cut your stabilizer bar accidentally!
 
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To stop the spinning, hold it with an allen wrench if you didn't know. And an impact wrench might be helpful to help knock off that rust. But the cutting wheels always work!

THe original link doesn't have an allen on the back. Just plastic/rubber on the back. Nothing to grip. The replacement brand is TRW. It looks to be OEM and just has a metal cap on the back. again, nothing to grip(unless I'm missing something)

The only cutting tool I have is a Dremel. Do you think this would be able to cut it off? What the best dremel cutting disk to use?
 
THe original link doesn't have an allen on the back. Just plastic/rubber on the back. Nothing to grip. The replacement brand is TRW. It looks to be OEM and just has a metal cap on the back. again, nothing to grip(unless I'm missing something)

The only cutting tool I have is a Dremel. Do you think this would be able to cut it off? What the best dremel cutting disk to use?

They have extra large heavy duty cutting discs that you should be able to find at any store (I got some at Walmart).
 
I hammered my endlink off the ball/bolt then vice gripped the ball/bolt to remove the nut. I don't think PB blaster/liquid wrench/WD40 will help if the bolt is already spinning free.
 
I hammered my endlink off the ball/bolt then vice gripped the ball/bolt to remove the nut. I don't think PB blaster/liquid wrench/WD40 will help if the bolt is already spinning free.
true...cut em off!
 
I hammered my endlink off the ball/bolt then vice gripped the ball/bolt to remove the nut. I don't think PB blaster/liquid wrench/WD40 will help if the bolt is already spinning free.

I tried using a wrench and mallet to break the nut loose but that's what got the whole bolt spinning. I didn't want hit it to hard out of fear of bending the sway bar.

It looks like I have two options, Beat it off or cut it off. I think I'll see if I can get a cutting bit for my dremel.

Thanks everyone for the fast replies.
 
I tried using a wrench and mallet to break the nut loose but that's what got the whole bolt spinning. I didn't want hit it to hard out of fear of bending the sway bar.

It looks like I have two options, Beat it off or cut it off. I think I'll see if I can get a cutting bit for my dremel.

Thanks everyone for the fast replies.

I meant I destroyed the endlink by hammering the link part off of the bolt part. See attached picture. Pry, hammer, or cut the cap thingy off to reveal the ball inside. Vice grip the ball and turn the nut.

The bolt also has a allen (hex) key hole in it. You're supposed to hold the bolt in place with an allen key and turn the nut with a wrench. But that stupid design = easily stripped allen key hole. May be worth a try before you completely destroy the endlink.

Bending the swaybar is an excellent excuse to get a new and better one. Someone must be selling an MSP rear swaybar :P
 

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They have extra large heavy duty cutting discs that you should be able to find at any store (I got some at Walmart).

I used one of these to cut up a steel computer case, it would probably do the trick on bolt too. It needs a special quick release spindle which must be purchased separately. Worth the purchase, as they have a whole line of sturdier cutting tools that go on that spindle. You will also need ear plugs, eye protection and gloves!

http://www.homedepot.com/Tools-Hard...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
 
i cut mine a while back..front and back because there was no way i was going to remove them..they were rusted to hell.. i replaced struts and springs but never replaced my endlinks..it handles like a boat but i dont take 80mph turns so im good.
 
I was having the same problem so I cut the endlink with a dremel which I thought would free it from the strut. I guess I cut it in the wrong spot or something because it's still stuck.

When I turn the nut everything turns with it. I tried hammering the nut out and nothing happens. I tried dremeling a slot in the bolt for a screwdriver but that didn't help either.

Any advise?
 

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I was having the same problem so I cut the endlink with a dremel which I thought would free it from the strut. I guess I cut it in the wrong spot or something because it's still stuck.

When I turn the nut everything turns with it. I tried hammering the nut out and nothing happens. I tried dremeling a slot in the bolt for a screwdriver but that didn't help either.

Any advise?

Maybe try drilling it out? Or else try cutting it off from the other side (get your dremel right up next to the tab surface).
 

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