Need help regarding crank pulley bolt!!!

[Magus]

Guys and Gals,
I have a Mazda Protege5 ATX 2002. I am in the process of changing my timing belt, water pump, serptine belts, and install a UDP. The thing holding me up is the crank pully bolt. I have a Craftsman electric impact wrench with 250 ft/lbs of torque. I have a regular Craftsman 3" extension and 21MM socket. The car is in park, passenger side up on a jack, jack holding up the engine (removed side motor mount) and the crank pulley is not spinning freely. I worked on the bolt for 30 seconds and got no where. The extension and socket are not moving, impact is spinning internally, and it feels like no work is being done. They spin just fine when not on the bolt.

I am just concerned because the crank pulley will not move. I'm also not using impact sockets and I'm afraid it's just spinning inside of the extension. Oh everything is 1/2" incase your wondering. I have the battery disconnected and concerned that I need to reconnect the battery to shift it do neutral to get the crank pulley to spin. Would connecting the battery at this stage cause issues? I need your guys help. Thanks again and yes I searched.

Magus

 

[FSCatalyst]

Hey, Most cheap impacts are not what they are advertised. My Craftsman Air Impact is rated at 580ft/lbs and its having a tough time to remove lug nuts from late Ford F350's (about 160ft/lbs per nut). Also to my understanding a crank pully would be torqued initially pretty darn well from factory (not sure on specs but assuming its 200ft/lbs, then a 250ft/lb rated electric impact WONT do the trick since you would need pretty much 400ft/lbs to take it out.) Thats sort of my basic understanding..

 

[17084]

Locate the slot in your ATX where you can see the flywheel. Wrap the biggest screwdriver you have with tape and wedge it between the housing and a tooth - commence getting that bolt off.

* Disclaimer: worked great for me and others, but don't cry if you break something (stash)

 

[Magus]

What about the fact the crank pulley will not spin? The way everyone talks, it should spin. I have one wheel on the ground, would that have anything to do with it (driver's wheel)? Or is the problem I have it in Park. Thanks on the impact gun tip.

Magus

 

[chaosProtege]

You dont want the pully to spin. If the pully spins then the bolt spins, which doesnt help you get it off. Use a more powerful impact, mine came right off with a borrowed matco impact.

 

[Magus]

Well that might be a problem. I do not know anyone with a impact that would be stronger. Sears only carries one other that is 50 ft/lbs more (300). I do not have an larger enough air compressor, nor do I know anyone locally. It looks like I will have to figure out how to get this off with my breaker bar.

Magus

 

[Magus]

I just thought of something. Would working on it longer work, even though it's probably not strong enough work? I might try this and see where it gets me. I will get back to you guys.

Magus

 

[Magus]

I got the crank pulley spinning, it just required more than hand movement on the pulley. Well the impact is a no go. I am still not sure the impact is even doing any work. The metal ball piece that snaps the extension on is not as tight as it is on my breaker bar. It's funny because they are both craftsmen pieces. I guess maybe the impact socket stuff has a smaller hole for the metal ball. I get this feeling it;s just spin inside the extension.

Screw the power tools. I got the nut remover from the trunk (OEM one) and put that in the transmisson (no more spin). I am off to get a 2ft 1/2" extention and break this bolt off. I will update.


Magus

 

[Maxx Mazda]

My craftsman impact took it off after about 30 seconds. I also fed it 180 psi of air lol...

 

[Magus]

SUCCESS!!!(yippy) (cheers)

I am actually very suprised. I got a 20mm 1/2" extension and it came right off with very little effort! Well I guess the cat is out of the bag. I am thinking about doing a DIY on 105,000 miles maintance.

Work to be noted

-changing of serptine belts
-changing of timing belt
-changing of tensioner and idler
-changing of water pump
-changing of termostat and hoses
-installation and review of UR UDP

I am piecing it together from cam install, UDP install and ugly protege serice manual. But there are a few things left out I figure would help. I think it would also help to have it all in one place. I am suprised no one else has yet.

Well onward I go.......

Magus

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

Make sure to get it back that tight.

 

[17084]

SUCESS!!!(yippy) (cheers)

Magus

(first) Yeah, mine came right off with the method I described and my breaker. IIRC, the bolt goes back on with around 115 -120 ft/lbs ...

 

[Magus]

No Problem guys, I have a really good torque wrench (the kind used for engines). Yes I did catch that the torque should be 120 lb/ft for that bolt. Though what torque setting did you use for the side motor mount?

Magus

 

[Lord_Zath]

Glad to hear you got the bolt out. It's a pretty huge difference between UDP and stock pulley, ain't it?

BTW, putting the car in Neutral vs Park does nothing regarding the crank spinning/not spinning.

 

[bumpin_p5]

Got mine out with a 280lbs kobalt electric impact wrench.

 

[Magus]

sorry for the delay guys, minor issue. I got the car all together and then put the coolant in, big mistake. I found the "lovely" water pump gasket not doing it's job and it was leaking. So I had to get some blue RTV and retake everything apart. It was ALOT faster this time taking everything apart. I put the silcon sealer on the pump, then put on the gasket, and then some more of the silcon sealer, this sucker is not going to leak! I have to let it sit for an hour to cure before I can put liquid in again. This time I am going to put the coolant in before I continue (wink)

Magus

 

[Magus]

Well wouldn't it figure, the radiator drain plug fell in the drain container (which is sealed). I ordered the replacement part, but it will not be here till tommorrow at 7:30am. Till tommorrow guys.


Magus

 

[RatLabGuy]

re: very stuck crank pulley bolt, here is an old school trick. Even though the issue is resolved, thought I'd put it in for posterity.
Disclaimer - I've not tried this on this motor, just others, so somebody tell me if it's not possible...

But anyway, leave the motor to where you can crank it (e.g. have battery, sealed engine etc). Remove the coil wire so no fire.
Now stick your impact socket on the pulley bolt, attach breaker bar, and slip a pipe over it, now rest it up against the frame of the vehicle.
Bump the ignition/starter 1-2 turns.
This pushes the breaker bar against the frame, and the bolt in the opposite direction. The force from the engine will inevitable be stronger than the bolt torque, it will spin it right off of there.
Careful!! Just a few revolutions, you don't want it coming out far, lol....

 

[Magus]

RatLabGuy,
Thanks for the word of advice, that's what I ended up doing. In fact I have taken the bolt on and off many times now.

Magus

 

[Magus]

Well the car is up and running!! I got them squeeking belts. I bought goodyear gatebelts, but I just think it might not be tight enough (lights dimmed). It's just a pain to keep tighting because of the location of all the junk by it and the fact the pivet bolt is under the car.

Magus