Need help regarding crank pulley bolt!!!

I am not sure yet because I am having problems with surging power. I think that is because of not getting enough spark from the alternator. Once I get this belt straighten out, I will give you a better impression.

Magus
 
I get surging power w/my udp but it's very minor and it happens usually when I have my cd player on as well as headlights and fogs plus a/c.
 
I run a very hungry sound system with lights and a/c on and get a slight dim when the system hits. Nothing drastic though.
 
I've been wondering about this too & finally got this guy at work to hook up his radar detector in my car since it has a digital voltage readout for whatever reason. So at lunch yesterday we hooked it up in my car (plugs into cig lighter)to check voltage. I have stock radio, almost 4 yr old stock battery, original alternator, UDP & no other extraneous power hungry devices. At idle without AC,lights, fan,radio or wipers it hung around 12.9 - 13.6. Driving was pretty much solid 14.0, never saw much higher than that regardless of rpm. Started adding things while idling. Radio/CD made pretty much no difference at mid-hi vol - maybe couple of tenths. Lights/fogs a few more, AC few more, same with wipers, etc. With everything on at once (in gear or not) idling was anywhere from 11.6 - 12.8 but mostly right above 12. Once again while driving went right back to 14.0. Pretty much anything over 1500 rpms pegged it at 14. Makes me wonder about a farad capacitor even tho I have no crazy stereo just to keep the voltage a little more stable? Maybe just newer battery? Still no options for a higher output alternator for our cars? (not crazy higher) Keeps the battery charged enough for every day driving so still just in wondering mode. Any thoughts on these things?
 
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You obviously worry way too much. If you are so worried, put a red top in your car. It will still do the same thing.
i12drivemyMP5 said:
I've been wondering about this too & finally got this guy at work to hook up his radar detector in my car since it has a digital voltage readout for whatever reason. So at lunch yesterday we hooked it up in my car (plugs into cig lighter)to check voltage. I have stock radio, almost 4 yr old stock battery, original alternator, UDP & no other extraneous power hungry devices. At idle without AC,lights, fan,radio or wipers it hung around 12.9 - 13.6. Driving was pretty much solid 14.0, never saw much higher than that regardless of rpm. Started adding things while idling. Radio/CD made pretty much no difference at mid-hi vol - maybe couple of tenths. Lights/fogs a few more, AC few more, same with wipers, etc. With everything on at once (in gear or not) idling was anywhere from 11.6 - 12.8 but mostly right above 12. Once again while driving went right back to 14.0. Pretty much anything over 1500 rpms pegged it at 14. Makes me wonder about a farad capacitor even tho I have no crazy stereo just to keep the voltage a little more stable? Maybe just newer battery? Still no options for a higher output alternator for our cars? (not crazy higher) Keeps the battery charged enough for every day driving so still just in wondering mode. Any thoughts on these things?
 
Not so much worry, just wanted the facts. Don't have my volt/oil pressure gauges wired yet so it was just the not knowing thing. Now I know what it's really doing.
 
I have always wondered that with a UDP, because it is smaller it should spin the belts slower. This seems to me like it will cause the alternator to produce less power, the AC to compress less, the water pump to pump less, etc. Is this all true? And does this lowered power output from the alternator result in surge?
 
I don't have any surge thing going on & after the motor gets spinning past 1500rpm or so the volts seem pegged on 14 all the way to red line. The water moving slower thru the radiator should only allow it to cool a bit more but probably not enough of a difference to tell & never any issues with power steering so I'm going with no ill effects of UDP. I've had mine more than 2 1/2 years so if anything I'm only nearing end of life on my original 4 year old battery that was in car from dealer when I got it new in Jan 04.
 
Magus said:
sorry for the delay guys, minor issue. I got the car all together and then put the coolant in, big mistake. I found the "lovely" water pump gasket not doing it's job and it was leaking. So I had to get some blue RTV and retake everything apart. It was ALOT faster this time taking everything apart. I put the silcon sealer on the pump, then put on the gasket, and then some more of the silcon sealer, this sucker is not going to leak! I have to let it sit for an hour to cure before I can put liquid in again. This time I am going to put the coolant in before I continue (wink)

Magus

let me guess, you used an aftermarket water pump/gasket? I used a brand new water pump and gasket and NEVER had any problems... the RTV just makes it nasty and a b**** to change the pump out the next time around
 
Agreed, I can only have peace of mind in a new gasket. I never count on RTV alone to keep anything sealed more than temporarily.
 
Success!! I decided to go with a smaller belt for the Alternator/Water pump. 404350 is the Goodyear gaterback number I believe. It just barely got on and was a tight fit. Once on I moved the alternator back out and tightened the belt down. The car is working correctly now.


UDP review: I definitely notice the rpms climb faster and fall faster. I also noticed that there is definitely a little more power. The mod makes it very clear I need a header and remove the VTCS. I felt the car is being held back at this point, but still enjoyable. I also noticed there is a slightly higher growl at the top end.(rockon) This project also highlighted the need for motor mounts, thinking about getting SLS. It will take time to let the computer recalibrate to check the mpg.

Yes I did get a water pump and gasket not from Mazda. Though I have never run into problems with leaking of aftermarket parts.


Magus
 
What do you have to remove to install an UDP? Do you have to take off the camshaft, vavle cover, belts? I was considerring getting one but just wanted to know how hard it would be to install or if I should just wait till I need to get in there to replace other things?
 
well there we go... aftermarket piece of s***... every aftermarket water pump gasket I've seen is a flimsy torn piece of s*** when it comes out of the box
you should've at least got the OEM gasket because it's metal and there's ZERO problems with those
 
Step one: jack up car and take off wheel.

Step two: unscrew undercarriage/wheel well cover.

Step three: loosen the bolts so you can take off the two belts.

Step four: make sure the transmisson does not move (if you got a ATX put your wheel nut remover that came with the car in the hole in the transmission).

Step five: Using 20inch extension, breaker bar, and 21mm socket remove crank bolt.

Step six: remove Crank pulley

Step seven: install UDP

Step eight: work backwards


Magus
 
The gasket was not ripped or any less of a gasket I have ever worked with. I have have a feeling it needed the silicon to seal it, no big deal. The silicon was only $3.99. Well I got another 100,000 miles before I will have to replace the water pump again, so I am not worried yet.(2thumbs)

Magus
 
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about how much HP increase do you think the UDP gave you? was it worth the money? I can get one for my protege for around $300. What about replacing all the pulleys like on the alternator and water pump? They sell a kit with all of them. Has anyone done that?
 
ncsukingpin,
I would figure 3-5hp, not very much. You could get the whole pulley set, but I honestly do not see it being very worth it.The other pulleys do not directly help the engine with this mod and would see very little gains. I got the ligthened Under Drive Crank Pulley from Protege Garage for $189.99 with free shipping. It is not only lighter, but also 15% smaller.

Since I have an ATX, the UR UDP acts like a lightened flywheel and takes less work to turn the other pulleys. The rpms go up and down very quickly.
I got it to help the engine run better, get better gas mileage, and a few more hp. I understood that this mod would not give you amazing gains, but works well with other mods. It does show me that I need to get a header. I think removal of the VTCS would also help too. I can acutally feel that more power could be gained.

Magus
 
i12drivemyMP5 said:
Agreed, I can only have peace of mind in a new gasket. I never count on RTV alone to keep anything sealed more than temporarily.

How about your oil pan? It's sealed with RTV
 
Kansei are you talking to me or i12drivemyMP5? Incase you were asking me, I have not replaced the seal on my oil pan, but then again it's not leaking. Though that is a good question as to what RTV you should use on an oil pan or for that matter the tranny pan as well?

Magus
 
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