Need Help Fast!!! Big Problem!!!!! Help!!

[DiS]

s***!!! I was driving on the road just now, coming home. Accelerating from the traffic light to next one. Accelerating normally not gunning, under 3k rpm. Came to next traffic light 1/8th mile away from 1st one. Came to full stop. Suddenly my car almost dies, all lights on dash light up as car almost died, rpm drops to almost bottom and comes back, and I hear a very loud clunk sound like something broke or ripped (metal sound) then followed by a series of clunks not as loud as 1st one. As I merged into the emergency lane. Shut the car off, popped the hood, looked around. Accessory belts are fine. Timing belt should be fine too otherwise how could car even move to emergency lane from standing position. Sounded like its coming from the head or something **** ME I HATE THIS!!! As you accelerate the clunks become faster and faster as it has something to do with the valves or the my J-spec intake camshaft, which I had in the car for almost 6-7 months. Also no check engine light. I checked with my OBD II scanner. Nothing. ALL suggestions or opinions are welcome. PLEASE HELP!!! IM ******* DESPARATE ALREADY!! Im scared to start my car now.

 

[viVid]

I would pop the valve cover off and take a look... make sure everything is ok and all is tight. Also, check for water in your oil and visa versa. Pull your plugs and have a look at them too. If you don't find anything wrong there, I would drop the oil pan and have a look at the crank and rods (check the block for cracks/holes before you drop the pan).

s***!!! I was driving on the road just now, coming home. Accelerating from the traffic light to next one. Accelerating normally not gunning, under 3k rpm. Came to next traffic light 1/8th mile away from 1st one. Came to full stop. Suddenly my car almost dies, all lights on dash light up as car almost died, rpm drops to almost bottom and comes back, and I hear a very loud clunk sound like something broke or ripped (metal sound) then followed by a series of clunks not as loud as 1st one. As I merged into the emergency lane. Shut the car off, popped the hood, looked around. Accessory belts are fine. Timing belt should be fine too otherwise how could car even move to emergency lane from standing position. Sounded like its coming from the head or something **** ME I HATE THIS!!! As you accelerate the clunks become faster and faster as it has something to do with the valves or the my J-spec intake camshaft, which I had in the car for almost 6-7 months. Also no check engine light. I checked with my OBD II scanner. Nothing. ALL suggestions or opinions are welcome. PLEASE HELP!!! IM ******* DESPARATE ALREADY!! Im scared to start my car now.

 

[scorch70]

s***!!! I was driving on the road just now, coming home. Accelerating from the traffic light to next one. Accelerating normally not gunning, under 3k rpm. Came to next traffic light 1/8th mile away from 1st one. Came to full stop. Suddenly my car almost dies, all lights on dash light up as car almost died, rpm drops to almost bottom and comes back, and I hear a very loud clunk sound like something broke or ripped (metal sound) then followed by a series of clunks not as loud as 1st one. As I merged into the emergency lane. Shut the car off, popped the hood, looked around. Accessory belts are fine. Timing belt should be fine too otherwise how could car even move to emergency lane from standing position. Sounded like its coming from the head or something **** ME I HATE THIS!!! As you accelerate the clunks become faster and faster as it has something to do with the valves or the my J-spec intake camshaft, which I had in the car for almost 6-7 months. Also no check engine light. I checked with my OBD II scanner. Nothing. ALL suggestions or opinions are welcome. PLEASE HELP!!! IM ******* DESPARATE ALREADY!! Im scared to start my car now.

Hey Dis, I dont have a good guess about what is wrong with your engine, but I just wanted to ask why sell all of your mods? Why not wait, get the car fixed by Mazda, then put the mods back on? If Mazda won't fix it under warranty, well then I can see selling all the mods to pay for the repair.

Just wondering. Good luck with getting it fixed.

 

[SpicyMchaggis]

Sounds familar. Sounds like a bent valve. It's relatively easy to do on these motors. How much oil did you have in the car at the time?

 

[akhilleus]

If u bent a valve at that rpm without stress i would be surprised, usually it can happen when the valve touches the piston, but then your cam timing would have to be off. If the timing belt had slipped this could happen. The car would also run like s***. Aside from the clunking noise does it run well, rev freely. I know you dont want to try it but at this point it might not matter. I would definately check the rods though. If a bearing was going the rods could have some movement. If its the timing belt dont worry, the engine is non-interference, a new valve and timing belt isnt that expensive, right spicy?

what about the tranny??????

 

[twilightprotege]

yeah i back the taking the valve cover off idea to have a looksie

 

[DiS]

Thanks Rob! I just called AAA service and my car will be in the mechanic's garage in an hour. As far as car driving rormally? Yea I think it drove absolutely normally after it started damn clunking on left and right. Maybe something has to do with my camshaft.... dunno

I will find out today, but most likely wont fix it if its a big deal, but return car to stock and drop it off at the dealer for warranty.

 

[Brian MP5T]

You should be able to have a good lok at most of the valve when it cams are off. Did you re shim the clearance when you installed the J-Spec?

 

[DiS]

You should be able to have a good lok at most of the valve when it cams are off. Did you re shim the clearance when you installed the J-Spec?

nope, didnt shim anything. Dropped the intake camshaft right in. Plus it was like 7 months ago, If it would be that bad, it would of happened sooner than yesterday, thanks for reply man

 

[KpaBap]

If the clearances were too tight the engine would've been real quiet, and the valve seat would take its time to get worn down and let you burn a valve.

 

[DiS]

**** ME! well I guess I will find out when tow truck gonna get here and then to a shop. Thanks fellas, I really appreciate it.

 

[Brian MP5T]

nope, didnt shim anything. Dropped the intake camshaft right in. Plus it was like 7 months ago, If it would be that bad, it would of happened sooner than yesterday, thanks for reply man

The clearance is supposed to be very strict, the shims can/have to be adjusted even if you just take the old one out and replace it, nevermind a diferent cam.

 

[DiS]

oh bummer, I guess i dont know all. OOPS my truck is here laterz

 

[SpicyMchaggis]

If u bent a valve at that rpm without stress i would be surprised, usually it can happen when the valve touches the piston, but then your cam timing would have to be off. If the timing belt had slipped this could happen. The car would also run like s***. Aside from the clunking noise does it run well, rev freely. I know you dont want to try it but at this point it might not matter. I would definately check the rods though. If a bearing was going the rods could have some movement. If its the timing belt dont worry, the engine is non-interference, a new valve and timing belt isnt that expensive, right spicy?

what about the tranny??????

You'd be suprised. I'd put money on a smoked valve. Good luck though DiS

 

[DiS]

Spicy, thanks for support man, I really need some.

well I just got back from the garage shop. Doesnt look good and then it does. We pulled the valve cover and nothing...Everything is fine there, no damage to anything. Lifters are fine, shims are fine, cam shafts are fine. WTF! and car still did that clunk... **** me harder dealer please. Anyhow, Unorthodox underdrive pulley is off, header is off, AWR front mount is off, stock pulley and stock engine mount are back in there... Stock exhaust manifold although is half way in the car, only downpipe has to be connected. Guy had to close garage at 5pm and I had to leave to get another car for my ass to get to and from work

The only thing that still bothers me, is when I pulled the OBX header off, I heard something inside of it, dingling and dangling. So I flipped it over and s***, a small rock, size of a half of the finger nail kinda reddish color, came out of the header. I hope something didnt brake inside of the engine. J-spec intake camshaft is still in, as dealer wont know the difference, Injen CAI still on as I couldnt find the bracket for the Antifreeze overflow rezervuar. Monday mechanic will finish putting in the rest of the s*** into my car and then he will tow it to the dealer for warranty work (and thats the reason why I had to take the UR pulley and header off) I just hope that dealer will cover it by warranty, otherwise Im totally ******.

Thanks alot to my dad's lawer's wife, who was selling her 2001 Mitsu Eclipse and still didnt sell it yet, but gave me the car just because mine is being in works right now.

 

[SpicyMchaggis]

It's looking like more and more of a valve my friend. This sounds too familar. I've shredded a few valves in my day..If eveything is looking fine, it's internal. Only a good tear down will determine the real conflict. Goodluck bud.

 

[JCell]

Damn Dis....i hope everything works out for you, I hope is nothing serious

best of luck to u bro

 

[DiS]

It's looking like more and more of a valve my friend. This sounds too familar. I've shredded a few valves in my day..If eveything is looking fine, it's internal. Only a good tear down will determine the real conflict. Goodluck bud.

Spicy, you really think its a valve? Why or how would that happen? Any ideas about the piece of rock that fell out of my header when I took it off?

Jcell thanks for kind words mang, I hope for good stuff too.

 

[KpaBap]

To repeat the obvious yet again -- when you put in the new camshaft you didn't adjust the cold lash to the proper clearances specified for the engine. Chances are, a valve or two had too little lash, and slowly eroded their valve seats away. When that happens the valves can't shed the proper amount of heat away and they can crack, get eroded away by the heat --- well they just burn up. Usually it happens with the exhaust valves but it's not impossible to happen to an intake valve either.

If some valves had too much lash -- well then it's possible you spit out a shim.

 

[twilightprotege]

was this small rock magnetic???