Need advise on purchase

Katapaltes, yes, thats what I'm hearing. But apparently, he's either missinformed, or it's a typo or something because the fenders, wheels, gauge cluster, shifter, and cup holders all are 02 design.

So I was thinking this morning while laying there not wantting to get up. Should, due to the high miles, the day ever come when I'd have to replace the engine, what do you think that would run me? I realizes that that is a very open and vague question. I would think I could find a used motor for say, $500, and about another $1000 to have it installed. Or am I way off base?
 
Maybe it wasn't in an accident, maybe it was just a repaint due to rust? But the mismatched fenders are definitely something to inquire about.

That car looks really good for 180,000 miles. Missouri is borderline salt belt, but still would expect to see more rust on it. Maybe it came from further south?
 
Katapaltes, yes, thats what I'm hearing. But apparently, he's either missinformed, or it's a typo or something because the fenders, wheels, gauge cluster, shifter, and cup holders all are 02 design.

So I was thinking this morning while laying there not wantting to get up. Should, due to the high miles, the day ever come when I'd have to replace the engine, what do you think that would run me? I realizes that that is a very open and vague question. I would think I could find a used motor for say, $500, and about another $1000 to have it installed. Or am I way off base?

Actually, the cupholder the owner provided is an '02.5 and beyond design. Check out this thread on the differences with pics (remove the hyphens in the word mazda to access page):

http://www.them-a-z-d-aforum.com/showthread.php/164-GUIDE-Protege5-02-vs-02.5-vs-03-vs-03.5-Model-Differences
 
Nice link Hank! Oggie did a very nice write-up on all of the differences between the "four" refreshes for the P5.

As for a used engine they can be had for a few hundred to a thousand with biggest factor being mileage. Back in 2013 my tb broke and took a valve with it. The FSDE is supposedly a non-interference engine so that shouldn't happen but it did to me and has to others. I claim full responsibility though as I pushed the limits and my OE belt let loose at 164K.

I got a used engine with 68K miles for $795 from a local scrap yard. Initially they sourced a 80K mile engine but upon arrival the owner didn't like the looks of it so found the lesser mileage one and gave it to me for the same price. I paid my mechanic another $2570 for parts and labor. Labor was $1150 and included time they took to tear down the old engine (which you wouldn't have) and parts were $1420 which included the following:

t-stat
rad hoses
timing belt
tensioner/idler rollers
tensioner spring
water pump
cam/crank seals
plugs
plug wires
coil packs
j-pipe (thanks to rusted to s*** mounting points in the flange)
pcv valve
grommet in vc for pcv valve
front torque converter seal
vc gasket
exhaust gaskets
exhaust spring kit
reman alt
rear/trans motor mounts
coolant flush and oil change

If you have the ability to do this yourself you can save the labor costs. You could save money too by buying most of the parts at your leisure vs. paying a mechanics inflated prices. You might not need the alt (mine seized upon install of the used engine so, yay me) or the motor mounts. But that rear mount is a PITA with the engine in the way so I figured it would save me the hassle of having to do it later. Don't mean to scare you with this price or list, it's just to give you an idea.
 
Get a carfax on the vehicle using the plate in the photos, that will show you the actual year, last reported mileage and any reported accidents. Looking at the pictures I can see the one of the front bumper clips near the headlight on each side isn't holding anymore and the bumper doesn't line up evenly. There's also a hole in the lower grille too from something hitting it, the paint on the bumper looks good though which is suspicious in my opinion. The vehicle does looking really good for its age and mileages, maybe too good.
 
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