NA Power Stage 2: Basic Bolt-ons Intake, Exhaust and Timing

The Budman said:
Great write-ups!

In about an hour, I did the tb cooland bypass, tb ground, and resonator delete. I didn't get a chance to take her for a spin yet, but I'm not sure if I'm going to be able to take the noticable noise increase fron removing the resonator. We'll see.

One question. What happened to the link for the timing advanve? This one ------>http://**********************/index.php?topic=44789.0 dosen't work? I can't find any other info on this mod. Thanks for the help.

(cool)

good question. hehe, it looks like all the links are dead. i'll have to make new how-to threads then.
 
Ok thanks.

BTW, there is no reason you need to buy the kit for the tb bypass. You can just comepletly remove the small (aprox 6 in) coolant line from the side of the tb closest to the firewall. Then disconect the line at the other end of the tb and connect it to the tube that the other line led to (not the tube to the tb, but the other end to close the loop.) Then you can just send me the $6. :)

I've done this on several cars over the years. They are all basically the same. Living in South Florida, heat is the enemy.

If that read is confusing, let me know, I'll do a better write-up if there is intrest.
 
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Well, after doing a little bit of research, I found the mod write up on another board. I guess we aren't alowed to link to other boards here, but if you use your imagination on what another forum for Mazda 3 may be you'll find it too. It's the first mod in the "How To" section. Another easy mod. Basically you advance the timing by loosing the two screws that secure the CPS, and adjust it to the lowest possible adjustment. It takes about 15 minutes. I'm going to run 89 octane now to avoid detonation being in a warm weather low altitude climate. All this is just prepwork for real mods really.
 
yeah the advanced timing mod does help for sure... and i now run 89 b/c of it but for the extra 1.20 or so a fill up the 3-5hp is worth it...
 
i would like to ask you guys to bring that other how to over here for easy reference. Since we are not allowed to link other forums (questions about this, feel free to PM me or Tsunami or thebeansoldier) it would be good if we have our own copy of the write ups.
 
SRI Mod

thebeansoldier said:
NA Power Stage 2
(designed primarily for the Mz3)


If I did install a SRI, I understand how it would be more succeptable to hot air, what if I made some sort of duct coming from the well vent and ended it right before the SRI? Am I just rigging for no reason or would this also provide colder air? It seems to me that it would be just as benificial as a CAI but with out the danger of sucking thw water through on those rainy days. One could even build a shield on the motor side of the SRI to further block warmer air and to make colder air more prevailing in front of the SRI. What do you guys think?
 
And while I am at it, have you guys seen this? and what do think?


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In regards to throttle body bypass... I can't actually find the coolant lines. I did this on my Sport20 familia, and it was an easy 10min job. My MZ3 is the JDM version with a cable throttle. Any chance it doesn't actually have coolant running through it?
 
Ignition Timing Mod

Ignition Timing Mod
Can anyone tell me how to do this? I have been looking for the install info but the link doesn't work.
 
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i dont know if i missed it, but how do i advance ignition timing? All ive done is grounded my TB thats it on my car...is it good to do it?
 
advanced timing means more torque.. but it might get you to use 89 or 93 gas instead of 87
 
ok i read 70 pages about this and i am lost

I live in montreal therefore, 4 seasons, temperatures go from -25 celcius to +25 celcius..

I have a 2007 mazda3 GT 2.3L and have done the TB grounding.

I wanna try this ignition timing advancer. I saw pictures on how to do it so i am a bit educated. Here is what i want to know.

If weather in montreal is safe for this mod.
What gas should i run, 87/89/91 and what difference does it make?
Do i have to unbolt and push the thing all the way down to the ground? Can i push it too far down?
What do you guys mean by ping/spark etc

TIA , i would like to do this tonight of possible.
 
ok, moving the sensor all the way down will cause advanced timing, which will result in more torque. you might hear pinging if you use 87 gas, thats why you would want to switch to 89 which takes longer to detonate (more octane, longer detonation) and that will prevent knocking/pink.
you cant move the sensor too far, just move it down as low as possible, it would be good if you had a really small 8mm wrench since the space there is really tight.
 
for advanced timing, i wouldnt really reset the ecu... just let it run...
you reset the ecu by disconnecting negative battery terminal for around 10 minutes...
 

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