My turn...LSD took a big crap.

Never seen a modern day car that the exhaust valves weren't white. I would def. say they look normal.

That pressure plate looks like its warped. It seems to be loading the clutch in all the wrong places. Why else would there only be hot spots in some areas. I def. would be looking into another pressure plate. Whose clutch is that anyways?
 
Spec...which I'm having a problem with. That's why it's out now and is going back to Spec for warranty work. Plus sending in the flywheel so they can work on it as well. Yeah it does look like the pressure plate is distributing the force on the inside only...judging by they heat marks. Only with my luck hehe. Atleast it gave me a chance to do the work and learn.
 
ROB-80E said:
Which seals you trying to get out?

As for the clutch, it looks ok to be reused to me. Wasn't slipping or anything before you pulled it out, so "should" be fine....but that all depends on if you go up in power and by how much in the future.

With the Valves, I'm with Turf, they look like the cylinders have been running lean, but without seeing the insides, hard to tell. What was the colour of your spark plugs?? Got any pics of them? As for 3rd cyl, The valves will be darker because for some reason that cylinder is getting a better air/fuel mix when ignited...ie, not as lean.

Tranny/Axle seals...which do not want to budge.
 
I always punched them out with the tranny opened up... then you just tap them from the back and they pop out. otherwise if you need to pull it from the outside (which I'll have to do as well this time around) you can get some kind of hook or so forth behind the edge of the seal (the seals are like 1/4" of width that you can get under). You may even be able to get at it with an angled prybar... just pry the seal against itself to get one edge up.. just be very careful not to tag the bearing surface when you do it... but you should be ok...

Been busy with my motor.. sorry for the slow responses.. and that pressure plate is F***ED up! Defintely looks like it has some runout issues or the plate is warping under the spring force and thus pressing weird.. but yeah... VERY not right!
 
TurfBurn said:
I always punched them out with the tranny opened up... then you just tap them from the back and they pop out. otherwise if you need to pull it from the outside (which I'll have to do as well this time around) you can get some kind of hook or so forth behind the edge of the seal (the seals are like 1/4" of width that you can get under). You may even be able to get at it with an angled prybar... just pry the seal against itself to get one edge up.. just be very careful not to tag the bearing surface when you do it... but you should be ok...

Been busy with my motor.. sorry for the slow responses.. and that pressure plate is F***ED up! Defintely looks like it has some runout issues or the plate is warping under the spring force and thus pressing weird.. but yeah... VERY not right!

A slow response is better then no response :)

So it looks like a defect in the pressure plate? Nothing I did wrong in braking in or the shop with the install?

Thanks.
 
If you're removing the seals to replace them, you should be able to lever them out with a thick screwdriver. Doing it this way usually results in damaging the seal (usually warps the inner seal resulting in a slow leak) due to the force of the screwdriver on one side.

But yeah, just stick the end in the hole and lever up on the edge of seal.

Oh yeah, I'm stuck in the 1st gen days of the BPT's, the don't come out with white valves when the manifold is removed...I would have assumed that the laws of a/f burn was the same...but yeah, spark plugs are the easiest way to determine a lean or rich burn.
 
CustomMSP said:
A slow response is better then no response :)

So it looks like a defect in the pressure plate? Nothing I did wrong in braking in or the shop with the install?

Thanks.

I don't think it is likely anything you did, the hot spots are too evenly uneven (way too consistent on the inside edge) to be from misuse I think. But the guys at spec are very knowledgeable and they'll be able to tell you exactly what it is from.

Later!

Steve
 
ROB-80E said:
If you're removing the seals to replace them, you should be able to lever them out with a thick screwdriver. Doing it this way usually results in damaging the seal (usually warps the inner seal resulting in a slow leak) due to the force of the screwdriver on one side.

But yeah, just stick the end in the hole and lever up on the edge of seal.

Oh yeah, I'm stuck in the 1st gen days of the BPT's, the don't come out with white valves when the manifold is removed...I would have assumed that the laws of a/f burn was the same...but yeah, spark plugs are the easiest way to determine a lean or rich burn.

Yeah, the plugs looks OK. Thanx
 
TurfBurn said:
I don't think it is likely anything you did, the hot spots are too evenly uneven (way too consistent on the inside edge) to be from misuse I think. But the guys at spec are very knowledgeable and they'll be able to tell you exactly what it is from.

Later!

Steve

I just hope I wont have to pay for replacement parts.
 
Yea, its like $12 at the dealer. Your clutch kit should have came with a new one though and a release bearing also.
 
Got the release bearing that is making noises, I don't think I got the pilot bearing. Do they just pop out?

Thanks.
 
Take the flywheel off and tap it out from the backside. Reinstall the new one using a socket to tap back in place.
 
Should I run a can of parts cleaner through the tranny to get rid of all the mobil 1 fluid? Bought myself 3 bottles of lightweight shockproof fluid, so I'm good to go Steve.

Thanks.
 
Spoke to Dan at Spec for a little while and he thinks the problem is with the flywheel's outside surface not being balanced, therefore cause the pressure plate to "woble." I'll find out for sure when they receive and inspect the stuff. Also, could the main gear shaft that the clutch disk rotates on be out of balance causing the clutch disk to woble?

Another thing sort of unrelated...it looks like the internal wastegate flapper is only opening about 40% max with the actuator arm connected. Aside from changing out the rod is there anything I can do to make it open more?

Thanks.
 
Why would the flywheel "wobbling" cause the pressure plate to only exert its force on the inner portion of the clutch? I still think its the pressure plate itself, not loading the clutch properly.
The mainshaft sits on 2 bearings, I find it hard to believe it is "wobbling". If it was, your input shaft seal would be leaking like a seive.

Why are you so concerned with the wastegate and how much it flows?
 
I want the best flow possible at max boost. That's one thing I hate about this turbo setup...at full boost the car just doesn't run as good as it does when the wastegate is closed.
 

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