My Turbo 3 Dyno 245whp and 258tq 8psi

I'm totally impressed with those numbers! Beef up the bottom end of the motor and WOW...the potential is incredible.
 
Any reason why the power drops off so quickly at 5k? maybe pulling to much timing?

chas
 
Nolimits said:
Air/Fuel ratios take a dump too and start running richer, which is more safe if anything. Id shoot for the 11:1 mark instead of the 12:1. Running rich is alot better than running lean. But then again, my a/f ratio is 9:1 cause I got huge injectors (682cc) but no upgraded turbo (2thumbs)

dude your engine is gonna tank if you keep those kind of a/f's..

chas
 
i believe he had problems with a cut off at 5k, this run could be before the issue was taken care of by adjusting the haltech to not cut off until 10psi instead of 9, as he was pulling 9 psi at 5k.... anyways its a nice curve until 5k then it looks like shiat... i hope this is the issue...
 
it is important to note he is not adjusting any timing with the F10X on the hiboost kit. the F10X is good for fuel control only. the stock ecu is still making all timing corrections. i have spoken with others well versed in the 3's engine and they feel the sudden drop has to do with the VVT
 
ok ur talking to someone who has no clue what ur saying, is stock ecu fine with getting another computer, i wanna do 6psi on stock ecu is that ok or no?
 
dukefanmaz3 said:
ok ur talking to someone who has no clue what ur saying, is stock ecu fine with getting another computer, i wanna do 6psi on stock ecu is that ok or no?

the stok ecu is not fine with any level of boost. as soon as you go above zero vacuum / 1+ psi the stock computer will not be programmed to add fuel or adjust timing for the extra air being forced into it by the turbo. you will run lean, have detonation and destroy the engine. for example, the protege ecu and mazdaspeed protege ecu are different because mazda programmed the MSP ecu for a turbo setup.

to run lower boost you will need a piggyback computer that can add fuel like the Haltech F10x does with the hiboost kit or you will need a mechanical solution like a fuel pressure regulator to add fuel so your engine does not run lean.

to run higher boost you will need a piggyback or standalone computer that controls not only fuel, but controls the ignition/spark timing like a Haltech E6X. Defintions in brief;

piggyback - works with the stock computer, assumes control of some things lets the stock ecu handle the rest

standalone - completely replaces the stock computer

fuel pressure regulator - a vacuum/boost controlled valve that raises your fuel pressure/pulls in more fuel when the valve senses boost.
 
dukefanmaz3 said:
ok how much is each of them/? and is piggy back ok to run 6psi on b safe?

depends on the brand you go with, varies widely. The Haltech piggyback comes with the HiBoost kit.
 
dukefanmaz3 said:
umm do i need injectors? im anly going to get a t28 for low boost i can get a custom manifold for 150

what about the intercooler? your stock injectors are fine for lower boost.
 
Captain KRM P5 said:
what about the intercooler? your stock injectors are fine for lower boost.

The 3 is not very easy to make it work with the stock components. The injectors are very small and will not take even 3 psi of boost. They go to 100% daty cycle at 2 psi of boost and 4500 RPMs. Besides the fuel system is a returnless system so that makes it even more critical.
 

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