My Short Shift Plate

[CWPeer]

Awesome

I just received Jamie's short shift plate, quality stuff.

Took about 10 minutes to install, piece of cake.

Definitely one of the best bang for the buck mods. I think the stock shifter height is ideal, so to be able to get nice and short, crisp throws for half the price of a STS...sweetness.

 

[nate0123]

Before anyone else sends jbarone money, please wait until he goes through the proper channels and gets approval from Antoine to sell these here. AV/AMM status may be required. Glad it's a good product; just gotta dot some T's and cross some eyes. Thanks everyone!

 

[08cosmic3]

I will have several in the next couple of days. What color?

Blue for me. How much? Do you sell just the plate or can you get the weight as well?

PM me with pricing. I want one.

 

[Mz3Hatch]

Definitely going to be making one of these when I get some free time this week. Quick question though, how was the new weight made and how heavy/light is it? I thought I saw somewhere stock is 19.5 oz and people are replacing them with a 12.5 oz weight? I have leftover 1 1/4" x 1/4" cold steel that I may use as a weight if possible.

Darth, can you email me the sketch file? RAReiff@optonline.net

THANKS!

 

[nate0123]

Blue for me. How much? Do you sell just the plate or can you get the weight as well?

PM me with pricing. I want one.

Do you have a problem with reading comprehension or do you just not care?

(hand)

 

[JBR]

I've sent the requested info to Antoine for AMM status. I'm waiting for a reply.

 

[Sport6]

This seems to be the thread for custom short-throw shift plates and shifter weights. I've worked on my own design and I finally finished and tested everything!

My twist is that I made everything from Titanium scrap I had at my job. The shifter weight is pure titanium while the STS plate is Ti-6-4. Long story short I love the shorter shifts and the lighter shift weight.

If I had to do it again, I'd probably not use Ti-6-4 because it's like machining hardened steel, only tougher. I actually skipped the tapped hole and used a nut instead, I could see the flutes in the tap twisting as I tried to tap it.

Feel free to use my print at will. I included tolerances on the location for the new shift point so that you may move it wherever you like. You can probably move it further than my tolerances if you add material to support it.

Props to jbarone and DarthVader for their designs!

Hey man thanks again for the drawing but this one is missing the dimension for the factory ball stud from the left edge (.895", you corrected it in a previous drawing). Also the bottom hole, is that up to us to decide placement (left to right) for where we want the shifter and how much throw it has?

 

[JamesCH]

Hey man thanks again for the drawing but this one is missing the dimension for the factory ball stud from the left edge (.895", you corrected it in a previous drawing). Also the bottom hole, is that up to us to decide placement (left to right) for where we want the shifter and how much throw it has?

Thanks for catching that... I don't know how that slipped by. Fixed my post here. I thought had over-written the old PDF file... Attached it again here just to be on the safe side.

Yes, you can move the new stud location anywhere you'd like. I have Included tolerances in this version to give you a rough idea of where it can go without anything rubbing or binding. You can move it more if you'd like. However, if you push it too far down the shifter will still work, but both the boot and the ball joint link will rub. I didn't like this because it will wear everything out much sooner than it was intended to.

 

[GoFast]

Thanks for catching that... I don't know how that slipped by. Fixed my post here. I thought had over-written the old PDF file... Attached it again here just to be on the safe side.

Yes, you can move the new stud location anywhere you'd like. I have Included tolerances in this version to give you a rough idea of where it can go without anything rubbing or binding. You can move it more if you'd like. However, if you push it too far down the shifter will still work, but both the boot and the ball joint link will rub. I didn't like this because it will wear everything out much sooner than it was intended to.

SO this template is good now? If I leave the hole exactly where it is then I wont have any rubbing? If so, I'll probably get it cut today or tomorrow

 

[bacarl]

Nice print, James! Does the location you call out for the ball stud maintain stock neutral position? This may have been answered but I've missed it among all these short shift plate threads/posts.

 

[JamesCH]

SO this template is good now? If I leave the hole exactly where it is then I wont have any rubbing? If so, I'll probably get it cut today or tomorrow

Mine doesn't rub that I can tell. The print has always been good... just missing a dimnesion haha. It is in a 1:1 format so you can always measure directly off of the print.

Nice print, James! Does the location you call out for the ball stud maintain stock neutral position? This may have been answered but I've missed it among all these short shift plate threads/posts.

No it does not, it moves neutral back a little bit, the even gears are about in stock position. if you want to maintain the stock neutral position trace a line between the right-hand 0.323" thru hole and the 0.397" thru hole. I think that should maintain the stock neutral position, though I'm not sure. Your best bet would be to make the rest of the plate, fit it up, and move the ball-joint link around until you have it where you want it, then mark and drill the tapped hole.

I did two versions of this plate to get exactly what I wanted, no one should be scared to do the same.

 

[bacarl]

^that's what I was thinking too, about moving the linkage around to locate a preferred spot. Also a good idea to have enough material for a couple tries. Thanks!

 

[Mz3Hatch]

James, can you e-mail me the drawing? Id like to do this as well. I put my email in another post for Darth but it seems all the plans are coming from you. Its RAReiff@optonline.net Thanks!

 

[JamesCH]

James, can you e-mail me the drawing? Id like to do this as well. I put my email in another post for Darth but it seems all the plans are coming from you. Its RAReiff@optonline.net Thanks!

It's an attachment in my previous post. Look up ^^ It's the PDF in Post #48.

 

[Darth Vader]

I'm closing in rapidly on 100 sets of my plans shipped out so far. Seems my effort is appreciated, thanks alot for that, folks.

 

[Mz3Hatch]

It's an attachment in my previous post. Look up ^^ It's the PDF in Post #48.

oops i must have scrolled right past that! thanks! great ingenuity and support for our community! thank to all you guys!!

 

[jeff4880]

Thanks James for the print! Thats exactly what I have been looking for. This is a very simple part to machine. I'm goint to make 3 today with the ball in 3 diffrent locations.

 

[cudaman]

Looks to be a pretty nice job there JBarone. Once vendor status confirmed, I'll consider this. Never did like the shifter feel / slop and throw length on the MS3. You mentioned that it takes out 35% - 40% on the throw distance, what about the amount of "force" increase you perceive when shifting between gears? How much more "arm oommmph" is needed to get it into gear since it appears to reduce the torque arm of the stocker and have a bit smaller counter-weight? Also, any problems with getting into reverse? What about the potential wear-over-time of the shifter cable boots touching/rubbing underneath at the tranny side? If they touch at all, over time, and many, many shifts, it will wear significantly. If you can grab a pic of the cable-boots' positions at a close up range in each gear, that would help. It might be great now, but after a year, you don't want to have to change boots/cables.

 

[JamesCH]

It's all linear, so if the throw is 40% less the force will be 40% higher.

 

[JBR]

Looks to be a pretty nice job there JBarone. Once vendor status confirmed, I'll consider this. Never did like the shifter feel / slop and throw length on the MS3. You mentioned that it takes out 35% - 40% on the throw distance, what about the amount of "force" increase you perceive when shifting between gears? How much more "arm oommmph" is needed to get it into gear since it appears to reduce the torque arm of the stocker and have a bit smaller counter-weight? Also, any problems with getting into reverse? What about the potential wear-over-time of the shifter cable boots touching/rubbing underneath at the tranny side? If they touch at all, over time, and many, many shifts, it will wear significantly. If you can grab a pic of the cable-boots' positions at a close up range in each gear, that would help. It might be great now, but after a year, you don't want to have to change boots/cables.

The additional force required is minimal. To me it feels more defined. No more hunting for gears. Yes it requires more effort but not in a negative way, in a good way. The smaller weight is required because the radius of the arms movement is less witch causes the arm to move faster. The larger factory weight was too much and would cause a bang / clunk and some rebound of the shifter after going in to gear. Reverse is no issue.

As for the boot, It does touch, but I think rub is to strong a word to use. I include a grease packet with the kit to lube the area where the boot touches. The cable inside the boot is not rubbing anything. All I can say is I have almost 3500 miles on mine and there is NO, I repeat, NO indication of wear on the boot. I have lubed it one additional time during an oil change.

This design is much different then how the folks in this thread are making them. There is no additional force or stress on the transmission or the cables, and certainly no binding of any part.

I hope I've answered your questions.