My ENGINE FELL OUT!!! Im NOT JOKING, This #UCKIN SUCKS!!!!!

[justa4banger]

For the record i didn't have any mods done to my car when my motor mount failed, BUt even i did the dealer wouldn't void the warranty for a motor mount with the installation of a CAI, if they did they would have a field day with my lawyer.


As for these other comments. It doesn't amtter if you do Verify the trq of the bolt, It can still sheer. Why ?? because the sheering action created by the little bit of missing rubber acts like bolt cutters.
My bolt didn't back out AT ALL. It was just sheered off. No amount of threadlock or trq is going to stop this, unless you first prep the 2 mating surfaces properly and then bolt them together. Nd easy mod IMO would be to make the current mounting points a bit wider and enlist in the use of dowel/guide pins. this would stop the sheering action and let the bolt do the ONLY job it was intended to do. HOLD THE MOTOR UP!

As for buying a real car? last time i check the MS3 isn't a walmart radio controlled toy..............

 

[voiceKoil]

My Rides Been Pimped!!!!

I AM THE OFFICIAL DRVIER OF A STUNNING KIA OPTIMA!!!! (nana)
Man this 4banger sedan is SLOWWWW and auto stick really does suck....


They looked at the car and sent pics to mazda, their waiting for a rep to come and look at the car before they start repairing (deadhorse it.....




Heres a pic from my dealer, I believe its my axle..... Nice

 

[CTGrey02]

Oh, that oughta be cheap and quick to fix.

"Tis just a flesh wound"

 

[justa4banger]

Had my mechanic had the BPV my car would have been finished in a day. IT lloks real bad, but truely its not. i broke an axle also, mech had it changed in 3 hours after putting the motor back in its place after about 2 hours.

Yea my rental was a mazda 3 sedan with auto stick and some kind of funny handle on the door. funny thing was the car must of had the non-roll down window option, cause i sure as hell couldn't find the power switches for them.

Hell i didn't think you could even get a car nowadays, without power windows..........

 

[Foolish]

what Im trying to say is I was a lazy ass about something I shouldnt have been....

You know, you say this, but really you weren't a lazy-ass, you took the car to the dealer twice for this! As far as I'm concerned, that's a much bigger hassle than doing it myself a lot of times!

You did what you should have with a brand-new car. You took it to your dealer, and expected them to do thier ******* job and make it right. It's not your responsibility to make sure that Mazda put your car together properly, it's Mazda's, and that trickles down to the dealerships.

Unfortunately, most people, not just dealership people, just want to make their jobs and their lives as easy as possible, and while there's nothing wrong with that in and of itself, from a business perspective, it's too bad that people don't see that the extra effort it takes to do things right the first time will pay off in the end.

 

[Betelgeuse]

For the record i didn't have any mods done to my car when my motor mount failed, BUt even i did the dealer wouldn't void the warranty for a motor mount with the installation of a CAI, if they did they would have a field day with my lawyer.


As for these other comments. It doesn't amtter if you do Verify the trq of the bolt, It can still sheer. Why ?? because the sheering action created by the little bit of missing rubber acts like bolt cutters.
My bolt didn't back out AT ALL. It was just sheered off. No amount of threadlock or trq is going to stop this, unless you first prep the 2 mating surfaces properly and then bolt them together. Nd easy mod IMO would be to make the current mounting points a bit wider and enlist in the use of dowel/guide pins. this would stop the sheering action and let the bolt do the ONLY job it was intended to do. HOLD THE MOTOR UP!

controlled toy..............

I don't know, I still don't quite buy that. If they all were subject to shearing like you said, the number of broken mounts would be astronomical. I agree with you regarding the bolt-cutter comment but I completely disagree that it doesn't matter if the torque was checked or not. Even if the mating surfaces were prepared and there were no rubber issues, a loose bolt will still allow those surfaces to move under load.

So people driving cars with possible under-torqued bolts should just ignore them?

 

[justa4banger]

Umm
Betelgeuse


i think you misunderstood me, and frankly i don;t understand what you are saying or where you came up with your conclusion. (help)

If rubber over casting is on the mating surfaces and you trq the bolt, it will later trq check fine as long as the rubber is still there, once its gone then there is slop.
Now most that verified their own bolt for having proper trq probably didn;t do it right. also theres a alot of weight on that bolt (holding up the motor) so that creates extra drag thus raising the assumed trq being applied.

the proper way to check the bolt , would be to support the engine and pull the bolt out, clean it, thread lock it and re-install. then trq the bolt to the necessary specs and forget about it. But if you were going to that far, you might as well pull the upper motor mount and verify the rubber is GONE and then reinstall the mount.

I guarentee you could have a loose bolt on a car and it will click off 80 ftlbs of trq on a wrench and still not be tight. WHy because unless you support the motor to decrease the drag on the bolt your not getting proper trq.

Look at ARP stuff. they clearly state that if you use there moly lube you only need to go to 80 ft lbs for certain head bolts (example) if you use 30W motor oil, have to go to 130ft lbs to have the same CLAMPING FORCE. why is that? Due to the drag on the nut/bolt/whatever. How many poeple here verified trq on their MS3 by first supporting the motor........... i know i didn't.

Oh and so people know do not remove your motor mount bolt with out first PROPERLY supporting the engine and not just the subframe UNDER the engine. also i'm not responsible if you try this at home.

in the end mazda needs to have a better design IMO. to have 4 mounting points on the back of the trans, and to to have 4 mounting point on the body and only use ONE bolt to support it, just don't make sense. (cheers)

 

[justa4banger]

oops

 

[Betelgeuse]

Umm
Betelgeuse


If rubber over casting is on the mating surfaces and you trq the bolt, it will later trq check fine as long as the rubber is still there, once its gone then there is slop.

Agreed that's why the bolt should be checked again in a month to see if it's loose. If it's not, it should be checked again a month later, if it's still tight, check it yet again in a couple months. If it holds, there's nothing to worry about and no need to remove it.

I supported the tranny when I checked mine since it made sense to relieve some pressure but the truth is, there's ZERO proof that the bolt will read the correct ft/lbs WITHOUT supporting the tranny, none , zilch. That's just a theory people are throwing around here and on the other forum. Yes I agree it will exert some force on the bolt but no one has proven what that force would be.


And btw NO ONE that I know of who has checked their bolt (with a torque wrench) has had a problem. Most of the incidences were people who never checked it or had their dealer check it (which is same as never getting it checked in the first place).

 

[SuperStretch18]

I don't see how it is acceptable that you should have to do anything to a new car to keep it from falling apart.

Best advice is let the dealer handle this. If they note any marks on a broken engine mount, they have cause to think it was a repair issue and no dealership/mechanic/service center will warranty another person's work.

I agree though that this is a drop in the bucket. It really sucks for the people it happens to, but so long as Mazda steps up and makes it like it never happened, then chalk it up to 1st year gremlins.

Hey VoiceKoil, just one other note; if they have your car for more than a month, see if they will cover your car payment during the time that they had it.

 

[justa4banger]

For the record i did put a trq wrench on mine .I did not support the engine. i set it @ 70ft lbs and made sure it clicked, which it did. Why didn't i got for more, well i didn;t feel like breaking free the thread lock and having to pull the bolt to do proper installation again.

Also it is a known fact, if you ever spent time in an inductry that requires trq's, that drag trq and other factors have a huge roll in how trq is measured/applied. i worked on helo's for 9 years and it has always been said and complied with, that when trqing a bolt/nut, whatever, that it should not be in a bind or load unless it has to be by design.

Didn't you read my comment from ARP. 2 different lubes used, 2 different trqs just to reach the same clamping force.

 

[voiceKoil]

I don't see how it is acceptable that you should have to do anything to a new car to keep it from falling apart.

Best advice is let the dealer handle this. If they note any marks on a broken engine mount, they have cause to think it was a repair issue and no dealership/mechanic/service center will warranty another person's work.

I agree though that this is a drop in the bucket. It really sucks for the people it happens to, but so long as Mazda steps up and makes it like it never happened, then chalk it up to 1st year gremlins.

Hey VoiceKoil, just one other note; if they have your car for more than a month, see if they will cover your car payment during the time that they had it.

I agree with everything man, you shouldnt have to work on a brand new car to keep it from failing, especially with something like this, thats the whole reason I bought a new car is because I was sick of working on my eclipse, I put so much time and money in that thing I was like $hit I could just buy a faster new car! lol.

As for the dealer covering my car payment after a month, thats not a bad idea. HOWEVER, if my car is in to be serviced for 30 days within a year or 18months (cant remember which) then by law of the state of Ohio I have the right for the company to buy back the car, which means I get everything that was ever paid for, tax, title, interest, dealer options, dealer fees, etc... So once it hits that Im not going to worry about a car payment, Ill want a new car... It happend someone I know with their Rx8. Technically for my car with other repairs its been in the shop for 10 days now, and they havent even started working on my car yet... So times ticking and honestly I hope it does go past 30 because I dont want a car this has happend to..

 

[controlo]

thats how i felt when my car got egged man. i didn't even want it anymore. it sucks when stuff happens to your brand new car. i've learned to accept the chips the eggs left, for now.

 

[clos561]

thats how i felt when my car got egged man. i didn't even want it anymore. it sucks when stuff happens to your brand new car. i've learned to accept the chips the eggs left, for now.

lol eggs, and this guys ENGINE fell out, my car has been in the shop for sooo long now im just like wtf, im driving rental for weeks now, and before that i had my tranny worked on and it was weeks too, ive definitely had my car in the mazda shop for more than 30 days and it sucks, im gona see what i can do for payment and see if they will cover it or something. or jsut consider my car a lemon car. this is the second time for the same thing and i doubt they are going to get rid of the noise when i turn so visit number 3 is right around the corner

 

[altspace]

Damn that sucks bro. Though it does not surprise me considering the amount of force the engine is pushed around in that engine bay. I'm sure many have seen those Dyno vids. It's crazy. Good luck.

 

[whitey4311]

lol eggs, and this guys ENGINE fell out, my car has been in the shop for sooo long now im just like wtf, im driving rental for weeks now, and before that i had my tranny worked on and it was weeks too, ive definitely had my car in the mazda shop for more than 30 days and it sucks, im gona see what i can do for payment and see if they will cover it or something. or jsut consider my car a lemon car. this is the second time for the same thing and i doubt they are going to get rid of the noise when i turn so visit number 3 is right around the corner

LOL, still selling the car to us lucky members?

 

[clos561]

yea wanna buy it? 30k(wiggle)

 

[controlo]

lol eggs, and this guys ENGINE fell out, my car has been in the shop for sooo long now im just like wtf, im driving rental for weeks now, and before that i had my tranny worked on and it was weeks too, ive definitely had my car in the mazda shop for more than 30 days and it sucks, im gona see what i can do for payment and see if they will cover it or something. or jsut consider my car a lemon car. this is the second time for the same thing and i doubt they are going to get rid of the noise when i turn so visit number 3 is right around the corner

well, the way i see it is... motor mounts can be replaced but there is no substitute for a factory paint job. atleast i've never seen one as good as or better than factory.

my door will never look like it did when it came out of the factory. as petty as it may sound, it bothers me.

 

[voiceKoil]

well, the way i see it is... motor mounts can be replaced but there is no substitute for a factory paint job. atleast i've never seen one as good as or better than factory.

my door will never look like it did when it came out of the factory. as petty as it may sound, it bothers me.

IF it was just as simple as replacing a single mount I wouldnt care, however thats not the case and Im not very confident about how they are going to inspect everything.

With the way the motor twists and drops whos to say that the exhaust end didnt twist or crack/fracture parts. Maybe there was enough stress to slightly fracture my turbo housing. Say I buy a Downpipe (which WAS going to be my next mod) I put it in or have it installed. 1 or 2 years later the fractured housing finally cracks and leaks, and then they see my Dp and claim whoever installed it caused the fracture, so looks like I would be screwed. Thats how I feel about the whole car... When I get it back Im honestly going to take everything out and just wait for something else to go wrong until I get a new car.

Paints paint, Factory paint honestly looks like s***, if you wet sanded the whole car and polished the hell out of it then it would look like something, but again its a mass production paint job so thats why I dont expect much. NOW if your talking about factory adheshion of paint then I agree factory is usually the way to go because its easiest to make it stick right the first time. But Ive noticed that Mazda paint seems very very easy to chip, so really I find no bonus to our factory paint except knowing that indeed it is factory paint. And the fact that our body parts are not painted at the same time so a perfect match of color and pearl/metallic lay is not gauranteed. Correct me if Im wrong....(beer)

 

[voiceKoil]

lol eggs, and this guys ENGINE fell out, my car has been in the shop for sooo long now im just like wtf, im driving rental for weeks now, and before that i had my tranny worked on and it was weeks too, ive definitely had my car in the mazda shop for more than 30 days and it sucks, im gona see what i can do for payment and see if they will cover it or something. or jsut consider my car a lemon car. this is the second time for the same thing and i doubt they are going to get rid of the noise when i turn so visit number 3 is right around the corner

Thats crap man I dont know floridas Lemon laws, which I should because I was born there but I would think you could do something if you wanted to.