my car stalls

While mine has never stalled, I have noticed a bit of a "stumble" in the rpms at times. It has happened a couple of times at idle and seems to coincide with the fan coming on. I have no idea how the two could be related, but maybe someone else does?
 
Do you all think this may be caused by shifting?

I mean (not saying you all granny shift) but any release in the pedal will result in loss of boost.. You all know this but I, myself even forget about it at times and wonder where that power went when I shift gears... then when the turbo kicks back in I :D
 
well i would like to pop in with my .02cents on this if I may .. now I own a P5 but one thing that was said in the start of this thread is that he only has added an aftermarket alarm .. well one thing for certain .. does it have a fuel cut off system with it .also it does sound like a combo between the build up of pressure in the turbo system and a fuel delivery at the exact time when the car is wound up and then put in to nutral and or downshifting .. my buddy has a Eclipse GST and i will ask him about it if he has that problem or if we could test it .. but it deffinatly seems as if the motors are either... A... not getting enought fuel at that specific time or.. B....not getting the proper air- to-fuel mix .. or maybe jsu tnot enough air to burn the fuel build up ... well like i said its just my .02 cents on it ..and i could be totaly off but i figured it woud give you all something to chew on untill its figured out
 
Maybe MP5Raycer is right, it could be an ECU issue if it keeps stalling and there is no leakage anywhere.
 
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Do you all think this may be caused by shifting?

... hehehhe.. good question! I thought of that, which is why I asked my friend who owns a WRX to try it out and it's really not caused by shifting. Actually, the hickups happends when I have my foot on the rest pedal!

MP5Racer maybe right! Anyhow, I still love this car! :D
 
Why dont you guys try using A/F meters, wideband and/or narrow?

This way You can see if its a problem with mixture?
 
i guess i will bring it to mazda once i have my break in school.. too damn busy.. its getting on my nerve evertime i try to downshift to secnd gear coz i am afriad i willl stall when i am turing.. hope someone here have more time and do some more testing and try and come up with a solution..
 
MP5Raycer said:
well i would like to pop in with my .02cents on this if I may .. now I own a P5 but one thing that was said in the start of this thread is that he only has added an aftermarket alarm .. well one thing for certain .. does it have a fuel cut off system with it .also it does sound like a combo between the build up of pressure in the turbo system and a fuel delivery at the exact time when the car is wound up and then put in to nutral and or downshifting .. my buddy has a Eclipse GST and i will ask him about it if he has that problem or if we could test it .. but it deffinatly seems as if the motors are either... A... not getting enought fuel at that specific time or.. B....not getting the proper air- to-fuel mix .. or maybe jsu tnot enough air to burn the fuel build up ... well like i said its just my .02 cents on it ..and i could be totaly off but i figured it woud give you all something to chew on untill its figured out

I think it is pretty safe to say, that the alarm is not the cause of this problem. Reasons being 1) Too many other people are having similar problems and they mention nothing about having an aftermarket alarm installed. 2) Most alarms purchased at a "retail" or "big box" location will not install a fuel system interupt when doing an alarm install. Actually, they are not allowed to interupt the fuel system because it could be a safety issue if the alarm malfunctions while the vehicle is in operation. They do however install a "starter interupt" and as the name states, all it does is interupt the starter when the alarm is active. So this could have no ill affects once the vehicle is already started and moving. This is all with the assumption that the aforementioned equipment is properly installed. 3)I have been an installer for almost 10 years and the only time I have seen anything that presents a similar problem, was on a vehicle that had a remote start installed on it. On a remote start system, there is a wire hooked up to the tach that lets the security brain monitor the vehicles rpm status. If for some reason, this wire becomes shorted to chassis ground, it can cause the vehicle to sputter, lunge, jerk and even stall. I highly doubt that she has a remote start on the car becuase it is a 5 speed and most places will not do that either. 4) See reason number 1 :p

peace
Griff
 
i had a similar problem with mine when i first got it. it stalled out on me every time i would let the RPMs fall blow 2000. happened about 7 times in one night. but the next day everything was fine and i haven't had a problem with it since. took it to the dealer the 3 days after & they said they couldn't find anything wrong with it. my brother and i looked it over and the only thing we could come up with(just guessing:confused: ) was that there might be some air pockets or a small amount of water or left over fuel (from the japanese factory) that was bad in the tank.

well i hope that your problem turns out ok :)

and remember its not a high performance clutch, its a heavy duty clutch so its gonna bite harder so go just a little easier on it and see if that helps any:D
 
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HELL ******* NO...MINE JUST ******* DID IT RIGHT NOW AS I WAS COMIN HOME. MAZDA UR GONNA BE ROYALLY ****** OVER IF YOU DONT COME UP WITH A DAMN RECALL!!!!!!!!!!!!!! SAME SITUATION DOWNSHIFTING IN A TURN INTO 2ND GEAR...WTF AND IM AT 2850 MILES THIS IS ******* GAY! I ALREADY HAD A LEAKY RADIATOR HOSE. WHICH ALL OF YOU WILL HAVE B/C I ALREADY FOUND OUT THEY PUT SOME bad AS FITTING UPPER RADIATOR HOSE CUZ THE RADIATOR OUTLET IS SMALLER THAN THE HOSE OPENING. REPLACED THE NOMEX MATERIAL HOSE WITH A RUBBER ONE AND IT FIT BETTER AND NO LEAKS AS OF YET AND NEW SPRING CLAMPS. DO NOT LET THEM GET BY WITH BAND CLAMP SCREW ON ONES CUZ IT RIPS UP THE NOMEX SILCONE HOSE. I THINK MAZDA ******* RUSHED THE DELIVERY OF THESE CARS AND NOW THEY GONNA PAY FOR ******* OVER THEIR CUSTOMERS. EVERYONE WITH PROBLEMS POST UP!!!!! I DIDNT PAY 20,000 FOR A ******* LEMON!!!!!!!
 
I have the exact same problems as you JDM Sam. The downshift into 2nd dead spot between 4500 & 5500...

I had my radiator hose replaced a couple weeks ago, when it got time to add more fluid.

They said they looked over the car for the dead spot and found nothing... they blamed it on turbo-lag. Whatever, I gave up with the dealer!
 
OrangeMSP said:
ok here is the deal... i was installing my boost controller( home made hope it works) and i found a possible problem with out cars!
if you follow the vacuum line that is "tee" into our factory BOV to the left. after the 'tee" the vacuum line goes down to the wastegate. about 4 inches down i noticed it was pinched inbetween 2 oil lines that can get really hot leading to the turbo. i very gently tugged on this line to free it and the vacuum line crumbled in my hand!:wtf: this can possibly be a solution to the weird idle problem or the "hesitation" due to a vacuum leak!hope mine was the only on like this but who know please let me know after you all check yours out thanks -brian

i know some of you guys have already seen this. this is for those that haven't


http://www.msprotege.com/vbb225/showthread.php?s=&threadid=15903

picture:
attachment.php
 
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Guys, I too have encountered this issue - my car has stalled 3 times in the last 3 days. I have less than 1000 km's on it too.
 
i found out i was wrong..
now since my car stalled on me twice last night.. i am sure that first.. i press in the cltuch.. then engine lights comes up.. rpm falls.. when it reach around zero it stalls.. and the rpm falls pretty quick too.. dont know if that will help identify the problem..
but i still dun know what causes the engine light to come on yet..
its like finding the source to heal SARS
 
Does the engine light come on only after the car stalls from hitting 0 RPM or does the Engine light come on then the car stalls then the RPMs fall to 0?
These are very important things to stress when describing the problem to a tech.
 
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