my car stalls

Does the engine light come on only after the car stalls from hitting 0 RPM or does the Engine light come on then the car stalls then the RPMs fall to 0?

The engine light comes on after it hits 0, not before (so it simple lights up because it's stalled... at about the same it the battery lights comes on).
 
It sounded like he was describing the engine stalling before the idle crashed to 0.
 
the last time when i see it.. its enigine light then then the rpm drops.. then stall. i think its like that.. coz the time is very quick.. coz sometimes the enigine light just flases.. and the car hesitates but dont stall.. so.. and i have the clutch engagaed.. u get confuse somtimes as to which occurs first.. but i am sure the engine light lights up.. be4 it stalls..
for me.. i think its like this..
1. some specific situations
2. engine light lit
3. car hesitate.. lose control..
4. rpm drops..
5. then stall...
 
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Jan, where does the car stand with the service department of your dealer and did you check that boost line mentioned in the other thread?
 
i didnt check the boost line.. coz i am not good at anything mechanical..
and i find out some more about it..
the engine light lits up when the rpm drops to a pretty low range.. yes it stalled on me again.. and i was wrong that it happen be4 the rpm drops.
and it tends to happen when i drive or driven in the high rpm range.. like.. 4000 and above.. maybe i should check the loost line? but i will need a better picture..
and by the way can someone tell me whats the headlights r?
coz i cant find the model in the manual...
 
I have something you can try but you might want to have someone with a bit of mechanical know how do it.
My car did all the same thing you guys complain about after i put on the turbo and it definitly was not a boost or intake leak.
Turned out the stop point on the throtle bodies butterfly was closing to much and the car was simply dieing for air when returning to idle. Once I opened her up a bit all the problems went away instantly. all you need is a small 8 mm open ended wrench.
This may not help you guys but it did the trick for me.
 
dang

sup guys..... well I'm new to the mazda scene and I got my new speed a week ago..... Everything was goin smoothly till my car starts doing the same thing you guys are describing... everytime I go from 3rd to neutral my check engine would light up and sometimes even stall...... I dunno what's the problem with it but its botherin tha s*** out of me..... what's up with my car?? aite any advice you guys can give me I'll aprreciate it.... I resetted the ecu already but that still didn't work... aite just tell me what can I do cause I don't wanna go back to the dealer thats an hour away from me.... thenx in advance...........

-yhan
 
Okay, is there anyone who hasn't had a problem with their MSP????????????????????????????????????
I haven't thus far!!! 1 -1/2 weeks in, but I really worry about this!!!!!!
 
Oh you will, don't mean to burst your bubble. My car is going back to the Dealership tomorrow for the clunking and stalling. Wish me luck.
 
Cirielle said:
Okay, is there anyone who hasn't had a problem with their MSP????????????????????????????????????
I haven't thus far!!! 1 -1/2 weeks in, but I really worry about this!!!!!!

5,200 miles,,,all is good.
 
The idleing / drooping idle seems to be a common issue especialy with aftermarket intakes involved. I have seen owners of all protege makes express issues in this area.
However usualy its simple a dip in the idle and nothing bad will occur or be damaged or any of that.
However the problems are not being reported enough. If you guys want a sollution you will have to start hammering after Mazda corperate to do something. Get one persons number there and hammer them with complaints!
Take no bulls*** and demand they file a full complaint!
 
Nadda

Cirielle said:
Okay, is there anyone who hasn't had a problem with their MSP????????????????????????????????????
I haven't thus far!!! 1 -1/2 weeks in, but I really worry about this!!!!!!

I havent had a single issue with my car at over 4000 miles now.
No surging, no clunking (thought I had once but I was wrong),
no stalling, and getting more than 31 MPG on the freeway.
 
Re: Nadda

yashooa said:


I havent had a single issue with my car at over 4000 miles now.
No surging, no clunking (thought I had once but I was wrong),
no stalling, and getting more than 31 MPG on the freeway.

(rockon) (rockon) (rockon) (rockon) (rockon)
 
I'm fine now at 4500 miles.

Took it to the dealer for the green crud on the turbo water pipe, but they cleaned it off and pressure tested the cooling system, no leaks and it held pressure.

Had some surging at 3500 rpm when it was under 1500 miles, but haven't had any problems with it in the last 3000. It just went away!

Nope, the only people having problems with my Mazdaspeed are the guys running against me at the autocross! This car kicks butt out on course! 3 seconds faster than a WRX last weekend, both on street tires! :cool:
 
You guys should definitely be writing/calling Mazda corporate about this. At first I thought it was just a couple of people, and now its like 10+. Ridiculous. Clunks, stalls, trannies. Mazda!?

Chris
 
OK, I don't have a Mazdaspeed (I have a P5) but I did have a 1991 Audi 200 quattro 20v up until last fall. This was a VERY common problem with a very simple fix. Not sure if it is the same thing though.

On the Audi, there is a "turbo bypass valve". It has a vacuum line connected to the intake, and ports to the turbo output and intake sides. When the throttle is open, it doesn't do anything. When the throttle closes, it allows the the output from the turbo to recirculate back to the intake side, to keep the turbo spinning during shifting. This reduces turbo lag.

Here is a diagram: http://www.sjmautotechnik.com/20vbypas.html

Anyway, what you are describing is EXACTLY what used to happen to me. There is no measurable vacuum leak since it is all internal, but the MAF still sees one which causes the problem.
 
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