So i go to start my car this morning and nothing.. No radio, lights, gauge cluster nothing. It was like someone pulled the battery out of the car.. So i check the battery and fuses but they look fine to me. The car started fine the other day.. Does any one know if the alarm system may be doing this or not??? I am going to check everything with a volt meter tomorrow to see whats up.. This sucks..
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My car is DEAD!!! WTF>>>
- Thread starter SOSPEED
- Start date
if the battery is dead, as in real dead it will do nothing, I have killed mine so bad that the inside light does not even come on
its either that or the fuse
a voltmeter can tell you its got 12 volts but it means nothing because it has no current behind it
its either that or the fuse
a voltmeter can tell you its got 12 volts but it means nothing because it has no current behind it
dirtysouth_msp
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Blazing Yellow MSP (Forged)
Have the battery tested at Autozone for free. If you still have the puny stock battery, there is a good chance that it is bad. Mine went dead after about 7 months, of course I've got over 1400 watts rms in stereo equipment. It did exactly what you are explaining.
- :
- 2003 Subaru WRX Wagon, 2000 Miata
didn't SpicyMSP have this same problem?
He can't even get to Autozone. but yeah, when you get it running, go check it. i replaced my battery too.
Have the battery tested at Autozone for free. If you still have the puny stock battery, there is a good chance that it is bad.
He can't even get to Autozone. but yeah, when you get it running, go check it. i replaced my battery too.
Push start it or pull the battery and check it..Theres always an option.ChopstickHero said:didn't SpicyMSP have this same problem?
He can't even get to Autozone. but yeah, when you get it running, go check it. i replaced my battery too.
Super Mario
Member
- :
- 150cc Go-kart
Push start it, its fun!
LOL!Super Mario said:Push start it, its fun!
BTW...My battery went bad in under two years as well....The factory's are just PURE junk!
dirtysouth_msp
Member
- :
- 2003.5 Blazing Yellow MSP (Forged)
Yeah, just take the battery out and have it tested. If the battery is dead, but is still good, and the car starts after the battery is charged (Autozone can charge your battery in like 30 min to an hour), then you probably have alternator issues.
hollywood0027
Member
- :
- '08 Black Mica Mazda Speed 3
Hope you fixed your issue (seeing as this is many years old). I am having the same problem with '08 Speed3. After some research I've found out that ECU's of new cars control everything, including dash, interior lights, headlights, etc. If there is a bad ground or battery terminal the ECU can hiccup and cause it to reboot, cutting electrical power to everything it controls for as many as a few minutes. Tomorrow I'll replace a slightly loose positive battery terminal and check my ground wire, hopefully this fixes my problem.
PS For anyone reading this thread you can not push start a new car if it has no electrical power. Electronic fuel injection will not work, ECU will not work, etc. Even the alternator needs a small amount of power before it's control circuits will work.
PS For anyone reading this thread you can not push start a new car if it has no electrical power. Electronic fuel injection will not work, ECU will not work, etc. Even the alternator needs a small amount of power before it's control circuits will work.
PS For anyone reading this thread you can not push start a new car if it has no electrical power. Electronic fuel injection will not work, ECU will not work, etc. Even the alternator needs a small amount of power before it's control circuits will work.
Sorry, but that is just plain and simple incorrect. The alternators are able to support the system without issue and the little bit of juice it bumps out during a push start is typically sufficient. If you had absolutely ZERO battery it might be very difficult, but just requires more speed to get enough revs of the engine for the system to be able to come up. Done this many times with my cars, including my BMW's which are much more electrically laden than the Mazda's.
+1
Sorry, but that is just plain and simple incorrect. The alternators are able to support the system without issue and the little bit of juice it bumps out during a push start is typically sufficient. If you had absolutely ZERO battery it might be very difficult, but just requires more speed to get enough revs of the engine for the system to be able to come up. Done this many times with my cars, including my BMW's which are much more electrically laden than the Mazda's.
hollywood0027
Member
- :
- '08 Black Mica Mazda Speed 3
Pleases read the thread and my full statement before you reply. I said "no electrical power". If you think this is incorrect I challenge you to pull your battery from your ECU controlled EFI car (one that has an alternator, not a generator) and push start it.
Moving on: The issue the OP and I were having is due to the ECU not being powered/not having enough power. In new vehicles the ECU controlls EVERYTHING electronic. The ECU must also have a steady power supply sufficient enough for it to process all of the vehicles requirements. On my car my positive terminal clamp had become loose and therefore was not making a solid connection. I would get lights and everything would work while on accessory mode, but when I turned the key to start the electrical system would attempt to draw more power than the loose terminal on the battery could conduct. The ECU would then see a large, quick drop in power and force a restart of the electrical system. During this time the entire car would appear to have no electrical power until the ECU had rebooted and was able to process once again.
Moving on: The issue the OP and I were having is due to the ECU not being powered/not having enough power. In new vehicles the ECU controlls EVERYTHING electronic. The ECU must also have a steady power supply sufficient enough for it to process all of the vehicles requirements. On my car my positive terminal clamp had become loose and therefore was not making a solid connection. I would get lights and everything would work while on accessory mode, but when I turned the key to start the electrical system would attempt to draw more power than the loose terminal on the battery could conduct. The ECU would then see a large, quick drop in power and force a restart of the electrical system. During this time the entire car would appear to have no electrical power until the ECU had rebooted and was able to process once again.
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