MS3 Owners: Show us your wheels

yo - im getting into a 2010 MS3 this week and have some questions. I'm hoping to do 18x9 et33 on 235/40s dropped on coils...
1) which coils do you recommend?
2) how much camber will i be needing to run to tuck them in?

-2.0* atleast and roll fenders.
I don't even want to think about it. (yupnope)
If the factory offset in the '10's is still +52.5 you would be pushing the wheels out another 20mm, or 0.8"... that's per side. That'll throw the steering and suspension geometry totally out of whack. (notcool) The modification to the steering center alone will cause some serious scrubbing and add to under and bump-steer.
Then there's the additional strain on the suspension components from "hanging" the wheels out that far when the car is not designed for it.

As your dealer, I would just LOVE to see you coming.
"Warranty? Fail. Warranty? Fail. Warranty? Fail."
 
I don't even want to think about it. (yupnope)
If the factory offset in the '10's is still +52.5 you would be pushing the wheels out another 20mm, or 0.8"... that's per side. That'll throw the steering and suspension geometry totally out of whack. (notcool) The modification to the steering center alone will cause some serious scrubbing and add to under and bump-steer.
Then there's the additional strain on the suspension components from "hanging" the wheels out that far when the car is not designed for it.

As your dealer, I would just LOVE to see you coming.
"Warranty? Fail. Warranty? Fail. Warranty? Fail."

I don't see why there would be any strain on the suspension at all. The wheels will stick out more because of the offset and wheel size but will still be connected to the car via the hub and lugs. The suspension isn't moved inward or outward when new wheels are added and will react close to the same as it did stock. The steering feel will also be close enough to stock that you shouldn't notice it. I've had three different sets on the car already and in all sizes 17's and 18's. And changing the steering center? It's not like he is only going to be putting the wheels on one side. Both sides will be extended equally keeping the steering center in the same position....the center of the car. This will widen the track of his car which will add grip not understeer.
 
yo - im getting into a 2010 MS3 this week and have some questions. I'm hoping to do 18x9 et33 on 235/40s dropped on coils...


1) which coils do you recommend?
2) how much camber will i be needing to run to tuck them in?

YO- whats up dawg? Hows it poppin homie?

Haha jk. But more seriously why are you getting a 2010? I hope you've seen it... Also suspension setups and body styling will probably be different for the new car so we can't say which coils we recommend or what camber settings you will need to avoid rubbing on the fenders. I have BC coilovers on my car and love them so if they fit I would recommend getting them.
 
well my car got totaled so i needed a new ride

ya i've heard a couple people saying the BC coils are good . i think madvillian has the setup i like - props to him for being ballsy

i'm new to mazda - so pardon my noobness
 
I don't see why there would be any strain on the suspension at all. The wheels will stick out more because of the offset and wheel size but will still be connected to the car via the hub and lugs. The suspension isn't moved inward or outward when new wheels are added and will react close to the same as it did stock. The steering feel will also be close enough to stock that you shouldn't notice it. I've had three different sets on the car already and in all sizes 17's and 18's. And changing the steering center? It's not like he is only going to be putting the wheels on one side. Both sides will be extended equally keeping the steering center in the same position....the center of the car. This will widen the track of his car which will add grip not understeer.

Added grip? Maybe. That too depends on a number of factors, but....
Issue #1: Take two books, put them 6" apart on a flat surface and put a piece of thin wood on top of them. Push down. Take the same two books and piece of wood and put the books 10" apart and push down. We learned this in 6th grade science, right? That is what happens to a suspension system when the offset of a wheel is less than is should be. More strain on the hubs, hub bearings and axle shafts. The theoretical lever is being increased. More mechanical advantage is being added to the lever. This also adds to bump steer and understeer.
Issue #2: The steering angle is being changed, yes. By pushing the wheels out from their intended position, the center is no longer the center. A new wheel/tire center is created, but the steering doesn't know that, so when steering the car (if you can picture this) the outside wheel is being pushed forward, instead of just turning, and the inside wheel is pushed backward. To return to center, you have to fight the wheels back in the opposite direction that they were made to go in the first place. This causes additional wear on steering components and a dead on-center feel. And any alignment adjustments would have to take these factors into consideration or they will also be incorrect.
Unless you are willing to redo the whole geometry of the car, I wouldn't think of going more than 7-8mm out of tolerance from OE.
 
Added grip? Maybe. That too depends on a number of factors, but....
Issue #1: Take two books, put them 6" apart on a flat surface and put a piece of thin wood on top of them. Push down. Take the same two books and piece of wood and put the books 10" apart and push down. We learned this in 6th grade science, right? That is what happens to a suspension system when the offset of a wheel is less than is should be. More strain on the hubs, hub bearings and axle shafts. The theoretical lever is being increased. More mechanical advantage is being added to the lever. This also adds to bump steer and understeer.
Issue #2: The steering angle is being changed, yes. By pushing the wheels out from their intended position, the center is no longer the center. A new wheel/tire center is created, but the steering doesn't know that, so when steering the car (if you can picture this) the outside wheel is being pushed forward, instead of just turning, and the inside wheel is pushed backward. To return to center, you have to fight the wheels back in the opposite direction that they were made to go in the first place. This causes additional wear on steering components and a dead on-center feel. And any alignment adjustments would have to take these factors into consideration or they will also be incorrect.
Unless you are willing to redo the whole geometry of the car, I wouldn't think of going more than 7-8mm out of tolerance from OE.

The suspension shouldn't be strained at all. The hubs and all that remain in the same position and take the forces through the wheel which extends out from the car. The extra forces should be on the wheel not the hub and axels right? The hub hasn't moved and the geometry of the suspension hasn't changed. The wheel offset has.
 
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yo - im getting into a 2010 MS3 this week and have some questions. I'm hoping to do 18x9 et33 on 235/40s dropped on coils...


1) which coils do you recommend?
2) how much camber will i be needing to run to tuck them in?

well my car got totaled so i needed a new ride

ya i've heard a couple people saying the BC coils are good . i think madvillian has the setup i like - props to him for being ballsy

i'm new to mazda - so pardon my noobness





nastynogalas, just PM me if you need help.

but in a nutshell, i ran 18x9 +30 wrapped in 245/35's with bc coils to the max drop. with a lot of fender rolling, and 2.5* of camber all of the way around, it didn't rub if no one was in the back seat.

go with an 18x9 but with a higher offset, between a 35 and 42ish. the front is cake, but the back is where all of the problems occur, if you can shave a few mm's off the offset it will save you a lot of work. all in all the setup worked great, the car didn't feel nearly the same, really felt glued to the road, i just drove around pretending i was in a shiftercart
 
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18" MB Interlines with H&R Drop

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