MS3 Loose Stabilizer Bar Nut - Clunks from the rear

[QuicklyCosmic]

i installed some road magnet springs about 2 months ago (2500 miles ago) and noticed very slight noise over bumps, no big deal.

well, saturday night as i was leaving my parking lot i hit the speed bump VERY slow as usual and about poops when i heard 'the clunk'. my gf looked at me (3600 miles on car) and said wtf was that?!

well, i noticed at 80mph on interstate, there is no extra noise or clunks even if i hit small bumps. strange.

so, i crawled under my car at work over lunch but the bolt was NOT finger loose. i'm going to go under there tonight and try to crank down on it and see what happens.

I've been having a similar issue. My suspension is stock, and I only get the clunk at super-low speeds, and always when the wheel is turned a good amount to the right, backwards or forwards. The usual times I hear it are pulling out of my garage backwards while turning, and turning into the parking lot at work. The clunk is loud and makes me wince. Lately there's a metal jangly noise along with it. Handling seems normal.

This has been going on for about 6 months or more, but it doesn't happen all the time so I know the dealer won't be able to reproduce the noise, as per Murphy. I have eyeballed my endlink nuts many times because of this, but they look fine.

 

[CHIEFSMS3]

If you are getting the clunk sound you better put some loctite on those endlink nuts and torque them down. Eyeballing the endlinks is like looking at your tires to determine if they have enough air in them. You need to physically check them. They may be loose and doing damage to the threads on the endlkinks.

 

[AutoXRacer]

If you are getting the clunk sound you better put some loctite on those endlink nuts and torque them down. Eyeballing the endlinks is like looking at your tires to determine if they have enough air in them. You need to physically check them. They may be loose and doing damage to the threads on the endlkinks.

+1000!!!!

 

[whitey4311]

Got my new bolt in and no more thuds when going over bumps. Lets see how long they last this time around.

 

[ericrapp]

I've been having a similar issue. My suspension is stock, and I only get the clunk at super-low speeds, and always when the wheel is turned a good amount to the right, backwards or forwards. The usual times I hear it are pulling out of my garage backwards while turning, and turning into the parking lot at work. The clunk is loud and makes me wince. Lately there's a metal jangly noise along with it. Handling seems normal.

This has been going on for about 6 months or more, but it doesn't happen all the time so I know the dealer won't be able to reproduce the noise, as per Murphy. I have eyeballed my endlink nuts many times because of this, but they look fine.

Torque them to be sure. But I cannot remember the torque spec damnit, anyone still have the number available?

 

[CHIEFSMS3]

40 ft./lbs.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Torque them to be sure. But I cannot remember the torque spec damnit, anyone still have the number available?

40.3-54.7 N.m
29.8-40.3 ft.lbs

 

[Kynetx]

Just popping in to say that I had mine retorqued under warranty.

 

[ericrapp]

Thanks AXR. And kynetx, did they need it and did you clunk too?

 

[strytnyne]

i noticed clunking today, so i tightened the nuts i hope it stops clunking =_= really dont feel like going to the the dealers..i thought it was coming from the spare tire a nd the privacy hatch at first, only a month and a half old and 1700miles

 

[matty429]

I had this issue also....Fixed yesterday...

 

[Speedered]

Has anybody experienced this clunk from the front especially if you move over a speed bump fast or slow

I get the clunk from the front and back but not at the same time.

 

[Kynetx]

Thanks AXR. And kynetx, did they need it and did you clunk too?

Yes and yes.

 

[AutoXRacer]

Thanks AXR. And kynetx, did they need it and did you clunk too?

Yes and yes...

 

[DrinkLemnBlennd]

WTF Clunk! No Nut at all!

New to forum- Thanks Guys for this thread! Been driving around with wash bucket full o' tire shine and stuff in trunk and thought that was what was clunking...wrong!

Check this out-

Going to dealer tom. AM- any hints as to how to deal with them?

Had car 2 months now, 8.5 Black Mica. Got rid of 2k Mustang GT to get it.

Nice to be on the board!

DrinkLemnBlennd

 

[Kain]

You all should be getting aftermarket rear sway bars anyway. During the install, loctite those endlink nuts. Two birds, one stone.

 

[DrinkLemnBlennd]

This is how they fixed my problem-

Took out the stripped bushing assy and sent me on my merry way until the part comes in next week.

No loaner, no nothing but an unattached sway bar on the left side.

I don't know what I think about this.

Thanks again

 

[ericrapp]

Very Very unacceptable. And I am being polite, DLB

 

[nhluhr]

the best way to permanently eliminate a nut from loosening while still allowing you to easily remove it is to use nordlock washers on it or to safety-wire it. Since safety-wire is not really feasible in this situation and nordlocks are easy to install, that's the best route.

http://www.nord-lock.com/default.asp?url=51.16.37 <-- video showing the nordlocks in comparison to other methods of securing a bolt, such as loctite. You can get nordlocks from many places including msc-direct or a typical bolt supply warehouse if you live in a big city area.

 

[ericrapp]

safety wire is for protecting the other machines or race cars from running over your lost hardware and causing a malfunction. but they are able to degrade their installed torque spec while staying attached. Which is good. The staying attached part. I have always used a thread locker of different strengths. And nylock nuts where heat is not an issue are reasonable. Thanks for bringing this to my attention nhluhr. whats the latest lemon blend?