You will need a EBC or MBC to change the boost level so the map switching will work. You will have to get a standard toggle switch and hook it to the MPI to be able to activate to 2 different maps. So for your example, I would think you would want some type of EBC so you can just hit a button to change the psi and then switch the toggle switch on to switch maps so it will work with the different psi. That way you can do it all from in the car without getting out.Saban said:
MPI Tuner Anyone?
- Thread starter MPNick
- Start date
Bigg Tim said:
Question for ya tim, or anyone else that might have the answer... When I load a map, it takes a few seconds to load and it says "downloading data" with a progress bar on the screen. I haven't wired up the map A/map B switch yet, so I am wondering if there is the same delay when you hit the switch, and also what is the PCM doing while the MPI is switching maps? Does it go back to stock PCM control? Or does it stay under map A control during the switch? Just wondering because I don't want to pop the motor if I switch on the fly with the MPI hooked up to my DSBC switch.
I don't have it hooked up either. But I don't think it would do the same "downloading data" because the maps would already be on the box so there would be no downloading. I assume the ECU would just work with it when it's switched. There would be no delay, as soon as the switch it tripped, you would be on the B map.
MPNick said:
Yea, the darn BPV was under my intake piping and coolant bottle, so I never saw that it was cracked.
What I was hoping to do was flip the switch after hooking up in second gear. This would be under full boost, so I am hesitant to have the MPI switching maps under those circumstances. It sounds like you agree with me.
MPNick said:
I did that today with some carb cleaner and found no leaks. That was on the new setup though, after I put in the new BPV. It is MUCH smoother now. I have been leaving the analog maps alone, and adding fuel up top with the extra injectors. I also got that AFR display to work on the software about a week ago. Everything is going much better lately.
MPNick said:
That's what I figured. I didn't think that the maps were both stored on the box because there is a switch on the software for it. I could be wrong, the software might just have a switch on it for the map stored on the box, but like I said, I just figured that it would change the maps with a slight delay.
Thanks for the info, I don't think I am even going to use the switch at all.
Little Beavis
Member
- :
- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
You should be able to tune for the higher boost level using the 1 x 16 load column "heavily", in which case you would likely have few problems at the lower boost levels.
Thus you go to your high boost map, but run with the low boost EBC setting and then switch the EBC to high when you hit second gear and all is good!
Or get an E-01 or another setup that does boost by gear.
Thus you go to your high boost map, but run with the low boost EBC setting and then switch the EBC to high when you hit second gear and all is good!
Or get an E-01 or another setup that does boost by gear.
(thumb) wow! Look at all the info posted just about the switch option. I love it (cool)
Another question.... Who is tuning with an aftermarket wide band (Like the AEM UEGO) and who it tuning using the stock NB readout display via the laptop?
This would be a nice Christmas present to myself (Man, im making a list early) and Im trying to find out where I can save money on getting the stuff I really need and what tuning tools I can avoid till later.
The feeling I got from reading this whole post, was that some of the MPI users swear by the wideband for all tuning whatsoever, and Nick seems to say the stock NB is find for tuning. Not trying to flame just looking for comments and of course my engine not to go boom.
Another question.... Who is tuning with an aftermarket wide band (Like the AEM UEGO) and who it tuning using the stock NB readout display via the laptop?
This would be a nice Christmas present to myself (Man, im making a list early) and Im trying to find out where I can save money on getting the stuff I really need and what tuning tools I can avoid till later.
The feeling I got from reading this whole post, was that some of the MPI users swear by the wideband for all tuning whatsoever, and Nick seems to say the stock NB is find for tuning. Not trying to flame just looking for comments and of course my engine not to go boom.
Little Beavis
Member
- :
- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
I tune via a UEGO WB and the J&S Safeguard - and I swear by both of them (not saying it is right or wrong, but it has worked for me and my car)!
So far I have only used the SW's A/F meter and no boom here, been almost a year. I have a WBO2 sitting in the trunk and a J&S coming, so they will go in soon. We saw on the dyno that the SW's A/F meter showed the car runing a point or so leaner than the WBO2, so it's not that off, and to think you are lean when your are a little rich isn't that bad. It's the other way around that you don't want to do.
I just ordered my MPI Tuner yesterday. What should I do to prepare for its installation and tuning? I know I need to get an adapter to hook my laptop USB port up to the serial connector on the MPI. I may have a local shop I know solder the connections on for me, since currently I don't have a garage. I could solder in my apartment quite well, but running an extension cord a few hundred feet is not an option. I may use my friends garage, though. My biggest concern is tuning it. Should I take it to a shop to have the car dyno tuned and the MPI programmed? Should I just find someone that is good with these things, and convince them to help tune it. Do I need a J&S and a W02, or are they just a good idea? I looked for them on Ebay, and even used, they are pretty pricey! I just sunk $800 into 1 modification for the car, so I can't really spend anything else on it now. I was so questioning if I should even get this. I could have done Eibach springs, a downpipe, the Greddy Profec B spec II, and a few small cosmetic upgrades like some DGM carbon fiber pieces. I was even considering the GT Spec rear strut tower brace and later the trunk reinforcement braces. Oh well, if you guys tell me it will make my car run smoother and make more power, I am willign to check it out. Thanks for any advice. I just want to know how everyone has liked it so far, and how they tuned it...Thanks!
So basically everybody who has the MPI tuner is using some sort of A/f gauge, whether it's a Wide band or narrowband. That make sense b/c i don't think you want to be looking at your laptop going down the road anyway.
When you guys are tuning, are you actually doing the tuning while driving down the road, therefore putting a load on the engine. Or are ya'll just sitting in the driveway revving and adding fuel and so forth...
When you guys are tuning, are you actually doing the tuning while driving down the road, therefore putting a load on the engine. Or are ya'll just sitting in the driveway revving and adding fuel and so forth...
Here is the answer to your soldering problem. This is what I used! : http://www.elexp.com/sdr_i100.htm
MPNick recommended it, and it has no cords! Uses butane.
MPNick recommended it, and it has no cords! Uses butane.
nictlg7 said:
Little Beavis
Member
- :
- 2001 MP3-T (#911)
One person drive, one tune. . .that's the easy way to do it. . .maybe the "only" way!
If I had to tune and drive, I'd probably crash.
nictlg7, get a hold of someone's map with a similar setup and use that as a baseline. If you're basically stock, there won't be too many "changes" in the map and what changes there are will be small. You should see a lot of timing added or pulled or a lot of fuel added or pulled, so you might be "okay" until you can afford gauges to verify what you are doing.
As far as a shop tuning it, you are unlikely to find someone familiar with the software, so grab a friend and learn - you might as well become the local expert, it isn't too hard.
If I had to tune and drive, I'd probably crash.
nictlg7, get a hold of someone's map with a similar setup and use that as a baseline. If you're basically stock, there won't be too many "changes" in the map and what changes there are will be small. You should see a lot of timing added or pulled or a lot of fuel added or pulled, so you might be "okay" until you can afford gauges to verify what you are doing.
As far as a shop tuning it, you are unlikely to find someone familiar with the software, so grab a friend and learn - you might as well become the local expert, it isn't too hard.
