Mp5t

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Mazda Protege Five Turbo

"I really think that Less is More if there is an extreme amount of "Less".

Each and every part is selected based on, Function and Reliability, Then It Must never stand out, seem out of place, and it must be part of the rest.

I do not want a bunch of parts in a car, I want a Single Perfect Machine."
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Texas Mile Top Speed Mazda Protege, Gear Ratios for 300Km per hour at 7000 RPM
A Full out assault on Top Speed and Acceleration. A Grown-Up Kids Go-KART for the street.

- Fully Forged Engine
- Transmission with PAR Straight Cut Gears Set Specified Ratios (2.500, 1.550, 1.100, 0.770, 0.650 Final 4.105)
- Haltech Standalone ECU on Custom Trigger (36-1+1) Sequential Injection
- Direct Fire AEM CDI Coil On Plug conversion Multi Strike
- Quaife ATB LSD
- SPEC Stage 3++ R Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk (425 Ft/Lb Clamp)
- SPEC 6.8 Lb Aluminum Flywheel.
- K-Sport 14" 8 Piston Brake System
- K-Sport Hydraulic Hand brake
- K-Sport RR Aluminum Coil Over suspension
- IQ3 Digital Display Solution
- WORK Emotion Kai 7076 Forged Aluminum Rims, 18" Only 16Lbs
- Full OEM JDM Mazda SPORT 20 Conversion (Front, Rear, Lights, Badges)
- Full Weight Reduction​

Spring 2012...
-Front to Rear Carbon Diffuser to generate much needed aerodynamic stability (Flat Bottom with cavity in the middle and rear)
- GT3071 .63 and Re-Tune
- 4th Gear (0.725) Taller 3000 RPM = 123 Km per Hour
- 5th Gear (0.625) Taller 3000 RPM - 145 Km per Hour


Hello, I am Brian. I have been working on my Mazda Protege5 since I bought it in 2002.
There are not parts that were not specifically made custom for the car. Hardly any "Bolt-Ons", and even if they were bolted on, they were either prototype parts or the only one made.
I have just installed a Haltech Sport 1000 with IQ3 racepak display. I am the first person to install this engine management system on this engine running Direct Fire Ignition and Full Timed Sequential Injection.

It can be viewed at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/503974 in better detail.
(1.2+ Million Hits)

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

ENGINE-
2.0L Iron Block, Aluminum Head
Arias 8.5:1 Pistons
Pauter Rods
Clevite Bearings
ARP Crank Studs
Cometic MLS Gasket
Power Steering Delete
Air Con Delete
Electric Water Pump
304 Stainless Manifold
GT28rs (GT3071 .63 Upgrade Spring 2012)

Engine Management-
Haltech PS1000 Standalone ECU
Sequential Injection 550cc Injectors (1000cc Upgrade Spring 2012)
Direct Fire Ignition on AEM CDI Multi Strike
Full Control over Timing in 3D
Full Control over Fuel in 3D

Suspension-
-K-Sport RR Aluminum Coil Over suspension
AWR 21mm Anti Sway
AWR Adjustable Endlinks
Peddler Poly U Bushings in Control arm
GT Spec Braces

Brakes-
-K-Sport 14" 8 Piston Brake System (Front)
-K-Sport Hydraulic Hand brake
-12.5" MS6 Rear Brake conversion (K-Sport 13" 6 Piston Rear Upgrade Spring 2012)
-AN3 Stainless Teflon lines throughout

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

-Exterior
SPORT20 Front
SPORT20 Rear
SPORT20 Rear Lights
Black Headlights (Upgrade Spring 2012)
35% Tint

-Transmission
Quaife ATB LSD
TWM Short Shifter
TWM Leopard Ball
TWM Shifter Bushings
SPEC Stage III Clutch Disk
SPEC Stage III P Plate
SPEC 6.8 Lb Flywheel
PAR STRAIGHT CUT GEARS Set Specified Ratios (2.500, 1.550, 1.100, 0.770, 0.650 Final 4.105) Top Gear Limited Speed 300 Km/h

Here is the Cooling System that is planed for the MP5T..

It requires the following parts.

Electric Cooling Pump
Solid State Relay x2 (Fans and Pump)
Haltech SP500/PS1000/PS2000 Standalone ECU
Coolant Temp Sensor
AluminumAN16 Weld On Fittings X4
Aluminum AN4 Weld In Fittings x2
Blanking Plate on Coolant inlet and Outlets
Gutted Stock Pump (No Blanking Plate as the Timing Belt Idler sits on it)

The basic idea is simple.

This car has no mechanical thermostat, No Heater Core and No Primary Coolant Loop
This works only because the coolant must pass the radiator.
The temperature is maintained by actively and precisely adjusting the speed of the pump based on the program.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Plans For Spring 2012 (Will Update With Pictures)

- New Turbo
- Taller Gears
- 13" Brakes in the Rear
- New Drive shafts
- Install Speed Reference Sensor
- Install Electric Cooling System
- Aluminum Ex System from Mid Car back
- CF Diffuser front to rear
***Click Here for Full Flickr Album***

***Click Here for Full Flickr Album***

 

[Jordysoso]

She's gorgeous dude! Props!

 

[bikingpro5]

as always Brian, looks great

 

[HKPRO5]

Yup. Awesome.

More info on the electric cooling system please!!!

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Electric Cooling System

Components:
-Pump, Fittings, Hoses
-Solid State Relay
-Control Device (In my case my Haltech)


The cooling system has no mechanical thermostat.
The cooling system has a direct path around. (Single Loop, Radiator to Motor to Pump to Radiator)

The Haltech knows what the engine operating temperature is and can control Digital Pulsed Outputs to a Solid state relay to control the speed of an electric motor.
The Haltech has a map with Coolant Temperature and Load as X and Y.. The Z (Output) is Duty Cycle for the pump.

Lets say the target is 100 Degrees C

The Pump would run 20% until 80 Deg
The Pump would run 30% until 90 Deg
The Pump would run 50% until 100 Deg
The pump would run 100% at 105 Deg

The engine would continue to get warmer as the pump speed is less than what is required to reduce the temperature. Eventually the pump duty cycle is the same speed as required to stop the engine from getting any hotter. If the engine goes over the target, the pump aggressively spins up and cools the engine until it's below the target.

 

[repthemazdas]

bump!

 

[magnumP5]

Looking good as always. Glad to have you back.

My only nit-pick is the harness setup. Please say you're getting a true roll bar with harness bar so the harness is no longer being guided by the seat and so the angle can be set properly.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

chromoly cage

 

[ogsp5]

Hey!! Nice to see you are back. One of the few P5 out there with a great set up

 

[BOOSTR]

Yep good to see a true OG back on the forum. Car looks great.

 

[Brian_K]

definitely my favorite p5

 

[CheeseHelmet]

This is awesome, subin'

 

[whiteMPRO5]

oh my... this thing is beautiful.

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

oh my... this thing is beautiful.

This is awesome, subin'

definitely my favorite p5

Yep good to see a true OG back on the forum. Car looks great.

Hey!! Nice to see you are back. One of the few P5 out there with a great set up

Thanks very much for the compliments... I am going to copy paste a Question and a Reply from another forum because I have been asked this question before and i believe that my most recent answer is the best explanation of WHY DOES HE KEEP DOING STUFF TO HIS CAR!!!

Here Begins the Copy Paste.

Thanks much for taking the time to look at the car in detail. It has been since 2002-3 as you probably know since I have started this car. I have actually forgotten or lost track of many of the hurdles and the evenings spent trying to find a solution to a problem. I look at the enginebay and it makes me happy, but sometimes I loose track of how many hours actually went into all the little modifications and the bigger ones. It's nice to be reminded that it is actually a bit more different than when I see it. I see it everyday so it's more normal to me than I guess it really is.

I am going to try to answer your questions and try to explain the Original goals, the Intermediate goals, the Today and Spring 2012 plans.

I started this car because my friend James Put a basic 5 PSI turbo on his NA Jetta (Gas)

He let me drive it, it was a life changing event (I didn't realize how consumed I would become) The throttle, the Blow Off and he had done some basic suspension...

I decided I had to have that, but I had to build it so I would understand everything there is to know about it.. That was 2002, Holy s***, I am still learning. It is such a complicated hobby. Literally everything changes everything else.

In it's most basic forum, I bought a Protege (New) because I loved the look of the car and it had No Bolt On Support. I also bought a GT28rs, with a T25 Flange, Vband Clamp and Vband. A Tial 38mm Wastegate and Spring.... and my wife (Girlfriend at the time) bought me a copy of Maximum Boost. Side note, My Wife is awesome and puts up with all sorts of automotive Success and Fail. She is very supportive. We made s*** for money back then.. lived in a rented apartment and I did all my s*** in the parking lot..

I logged into 24/7 There were some people who really know their stuff... A-MAFF, Raider, Turfburn, Terbo, Focus, PdAudio, GHOST-P5, Kooldino...and even Mathew (A Bit) the list is long and I missed many... All of these people, I fed off like a sponge, some knew as little as I did, but knew different things.

I started to work out where the Turbo could/would sit, drew up some sketches and found an awesome welder Steve Block. He built that manifold from Scratch. His welds are perfect, he has the hand of God with a TIG. He Plumbed the entire intake and Ex system. I worked on the details and he bashed out a custom turbo kit for a car that wasn't ever turboed. The MSP came out shortly after I was on the road.

I kept addressing faults and leaks for the rest of that year. Fixing Oil Feed and Return lines. Adding an Extra Injector Controller and just enjoying the car.

I deployed to Bosnia and came back in the spring, I bought a set of Tein-SS Springs, AWR 21mm Bar and some other stuff. Improved the car and I learned a bit more.

I thought I knew about Timing and Fuel delivery, but back then compared to what i understand now.. I knew **** ALL. I don't know why it lasted so long before blowing up. I boosted 12 PSI all Summer and near the Fall, Blew the Stock engine all over the place. (Fall 2004)

I had a choice... Be Pissed off, or Fix it... Fix it the way it was or FIX IT BETTER.

So Spring 2005 ... FORGED PISTONS and RODS in a New Motor... New Clutch

This was the first time I had Built a Motor, It was the first time I did an engine swap. The Cost of the engine was totally offset by the new knowledge of doing it yourself, things can't always be learned out of a book...

The car ran really well, I started to remove some things... The Power steering, The AC, Got a CF Hood... Hated it, Painted it white...

Got Nominated for Cardomain Show Off Of The Week April 2005.. It was really cool, I was so busy building the car that I didn't even notice it until someone PMed me to congratulate.

So more recently, I decided to finally get a standlone EMS, I didn't want to Piggy off the Stock ECU so I ripped Every Stock Wire out of the car and bought a Haltech PS1000.

This proved to be a problem, The Haltech could not run the FS motor, It could not understand the 36-1+3 Trigger, There were no base-maps, I was ******, so I started to read and ask questions.

I ended up making a 36-1+1 Trigger so I could run my car Full Sequential Direct Fire Ignition. I made a bracket that would hold 4 LS1 Coils, Upped the Fuel Pump, Upped the Injectors, and attacked my build as a bunch of small problems rather than one big one. I got the engine to deliver a clean signal to the Haltech... It could understand where the motor was. It would be able to make it run. The Stock ECU operates the Alternator, I needed to find a low tech alternator solution. I literally blew up 6 Alternators in one summer trying to make it work. Ended up with a 1991 626 Alternator as it has an internal regulator.

As the power went up and up, the transmission was totally useless.. I broke two stock transmissions, so I decided to get PAR Gears. Now that I had so much more HP, I decided that the car could power taller gears.

I planned this originally to make the car more fun to drive, to lower the RPM at 70 MPH and to give the P5 better legs to run with. I was tired of punching the gas and being forced to shut down before 120 MPH... the car would go from 3000 to Redline so quickly that it was a bit anti-climatic.

This is where the idea of the Texas Mile came out... Rather than just making the 5th gear a little taller... I would make it A LOT taller. I spent 2 Months calculating gear ratios. I was worried that I would **** Up a ratio and the transmission wouldn't have a tuned balanced feel between gears... The Shiftpoints had to be dead on. I needed it to be able to deliver power on boost, without falling out of boost and without the need to redline every shift.

I wanted a drivable car, I have always wanted to build it primarily to drive like a Go-Kart for the road.

With Taller Gears, you get higher top speeds, those speeds are too great for the OEM brakes to stop effectively. That became apparent the day I put the car away for the winter last Fall. I had to make an emergency application and one disk warped and the other cracked. I spent the next winter overseas and in my spare time planning the next step (Spring 2011)

14" K-Sport Brakes, K-Sport Suspension to replace the Tein-SS, PAR Gears, Quaiffe ATB LSD, New Forged Motor, StageIII Clutch, 6.8 Lb Flywheel... Big Money planning.

All of these so called Bolt on Parts were not. The Brakes required several weeks of trial and error. The brake lines ended up being made completely out of AN3 SS Lines. Neeed to install a hydraulic handbrake, installed a fuel system, it sucked so I remade the entire thing out of AN6 SS... You see, all of these trivial sounding things all added up to be 2 months of on/off work.

I noticed that the BBK was 2 Lbs heavier each side... I became interested in Forged Rims to replace the 28 Lb Enki CDR9 that I had. I found a set of WORK Emotion KAI rims for sale, Bought them.. They are Flat Black, This totally changed the look of the car... everything that was silver (Lines, Decals, Headlights, Tinting) had to go black. I also got my hands on all the exterior parts that would make the car a SPORT20 Conversion. They were in bad shape and needed to be refinished.

The new rims sit 2mm away from the new calipers. There is no place for weights so I had to come up with a way to balance them. I found a shop that would static balance the rims and I was finally on the road.

That Brings me to almost today. The turbo is obviously too small, the aerodynamics of the car make it a bit dangerous to drive at 280 Km/h (as I found out during a test).

I bought a GT3071 and this fall I need to install it and get a DP made. I need to redo some of the intake system. Nothing Bolt On as Usual... Sucks a bit, sometimes I wish I could just buy something and have it just work without doing anything, but that wouldn't be MP5T and that wouldn't make me think. The Haltech is 100% Self tuned and teaches me something new every week.

1. what do you do for a living? the level of thought that is going into your build and the attention to detail is something rarely seen.. I would venture a guess of engineer of some kind?

I have been in the Canadian Army since 1991, I joined as a Tank Driver, then became a Gunner/Loader and then a TC. I changed my occupation to Geomatics. ( I am a soldier that makes maps for other soldiers ) Ironically I wear an Engineer cap badge, but I am not a civilian qualified engineer by definition.

2. you showed the hole in your dash during the build, and it’s apparent that you don’t have a radio or anything, so what did you do to finish that portion of the interior?

I took some more pictures of the dash. It is empty, there is a block of foam that pushes against a piece of Foam Core board, they type of thing a student would use to make a science fair project. It is light and flat black.

3. do you have plans on redoing the interior to match the front seats? I know that you don’t have much love for cosmetics but a few tasteful modifications could do wonders for an otherwise bland interior.

Form is function in my mind... My goals with the car are faster, stronger. Anything in the car added that does not do something, takes away the point of removing all the other stuff. If you remove the little plastic from the rear of the car, but leave the seats as an example, you are missing the point... you have only made the car look lighter... but take both out... now that's a plan. Pretty is in the eye of the beholder... I look at my car... at how empty it is, how white painted metal it is and I see beauty. The very lack of something is something.
So I suppose, the answer is no plans.

4. I don’t quite understand the direction that you’re going with the car. you said that you build a motor every year.. drive it 15k km.. a little under 10k miles.. then pull it. Is this because of some inherent flaw in the motor that it will only last for such a short time at the high boost levels? have you experimented with running the engine for a longer period of time and found them to pop? I guess what I’m saying is that such a short duty cycle seems to be a waste of money and that overbuilding the motor to last 2-3 times as long at the current power level would make more sense to me.
5. if your basically rebuilding the motor after such a short run duty cycle because it gives you something to do during the winter.. I would think that you would want to increase the specs from year to year (I’m talking mechanicals not just a new turbo and such. maybe your already doing this but you edit the thread pretty severely).
6. can you list the specs of the motor so that we can consider what you may do next? I would think that closing the deck would allow you to increase boost now that you have the driveline to support it. Also attempting a fully mechanical top end and shooting for more than 7k on the tach could be allot of fun and would definitely be unique. What are your thoughts.
7. if the design of the motor is the limiting factor have you considered swapping to a newer 2.3 motor? How about a rotary (trans would be an issue)? you have the supporting mods to run just about anything in there! If your dedicated to that motor.. with the money you drop every year .. how about a custom billet crank with wider bearings to support more HP/revs. how about a dry sump system to free up more revs. I would love to see you build that fucker into a beast with a 10k redline.. and with a 10k mile duty cycle you may even be able to get away with it.. most people want to get 60-100k miles out of their builds.

I piled all that into this reply..

In reality, this spring, I installed the first new motor in the car since 2005... The builder that assembled it and did all the work, installed Main Bearings that were 0.10 Over. The Engine failed and had to be removed. I Reinstalled the Old motor which is in the car. This Fall there are two brand new motors being built plus the 2005 is being rebuilt. It is my desire to have one in the car and two spares on the shelf. I will replace them as they fail. There is no mechanical fault with the motor as the 2005 engine has proven.

8. what is your personal vision for the car in the future.. I doubt you’ll actually come to a point that you will call the car done..so.. with that in mind.. do you have an *ULTIMATE* goal? Something if money was no object?

This car will break 265 Km/h from Zero in One Mile or Break trying to do that. That would make it the quickest FWD car to ever compete in the Texas Mile. It is a totally legitimate goal with the current build I have, and it becomes more possible as I add the Larger turbo and Re-Tune.

Brian.. I have to say.. you are an inspiration. allot of guys would have dropped the car years ago and spent the money on something that was built from the factory for speed. I appreciate what you have done a million times more than some asshole with a Ferrari or like you said a 500whp mustang. stock sucks.. and by that measurement stick you are the polar opposite of suck.. Haha.. your project is awesome and has mad flavor. Keep up the good work!

Thanks, I'm happy to hear that I'm not the only one who understand why I do this..

 

[BRIAN_MP5T]

Any Ideas on what I'm doing this weekend??

 

[speedracr79]

wow man thats a sick P5 you have there.

 

[hotcracker69]

be careful with the way you have your seat belt attached to the floor. they are attached the wrong way. if you every get into an accident and hit the seat belt will compress your spine as it is attached downward. seat belt are suppose to be attached straight back and slight up.

safety first. get a roll cage and attached the seatbelt to the tube that would ran across the back, this tube must be higher then your shoulder, but never lower

you can have serious injuries thet way you have it now.

but nevetheless, nice p5