MP5 Hungry for headlights?

[dpriggins]

If your P5 is going through a lot of low beam bulbs it's because the spring clip that holds them in has been deformed and is not holding them in place firmly. This allows the bulbs to vibrate on rough roads or when crossing something like RR tracks. Vibrating a bulb with a hot filament creates instant burnout. (If you are using Sylvania Silverstars, the problem is even worse because of their short lifespan).

The spring clip is easily deformed if you press down to hard when trying to release the clip. Easy to do because the clip is in an awkward location that makes it difficult to move them laterally off the hook. The clips can also be deformed when trying to unplug the wiring harness if you don't hold the bulb receptacle in place while pulling on the plug. But his is why burnouts seem to happen more often after replacing the OEM's.

To test to see if this is your problem, unplug the wiring harness and remove the dust boot, leave the bulb and spring clip in place. With the tip of your index finger lightly try to wiggle the bulb contacts from side-to side and up and down. If there is any movement at all, your clip is deformed.

To fix it you have to remove the clip and re-bend it so both sides of the clip evenly contact the back of the bulb receptacle when the end of the clip is still about 1/4" away from the hook. This is best done with two persons unless you are really good at working while looking in a mirror. A lady friend with small hands makes an excellent assistant. Make sure you have a good hold on the clip when you loosen the screw on the "hinge side" (you only have to loosen it, not take it all the way out, in order to slip the clip out). Otherwise it can fall into to pretty inaccessible places (personal experience).

This takes a little trial and error to get it right, but you’ll know when it’s right the instant you perform the wiggle test.

Whoever thought this retaining system was a good idea should have their head examined.
Whoever designs a bolt-on alternative will make some money.

 

[mx-p5]

there ya go


Problem solved

 

[SuperProtege5]

Well for whatever reason, the Silverstars just don't like our cars and our cars don't like them. I know in both our Protege5's we have switched to Luminics bulbs and haven't had a problem so far. Even put them in the fog's. Good tip on the hinge clip. And you are right: the brilliant team of engineers who came up with that design suck.

 

[mx-p5]

i just stepped up to HID's and no more blown bulbs

 

[dpriggins]

HID Alternative

Because of my frustration with the headlight burnout problem, I too was looking into HID. After a lot of research, I decided against HIDs (for a lot of reasons I wont go into here). As a last resort I sent an e-mail to Daniel Stern Lighting (www.danielsternlighting.com). I did not think that they would pay much attention to someone who might spend 50 bucks on their products. Quite to my surprise I received a very quick and comprehensive response which I share with all of you because it has a lot of information that I simply could not find anywhere else. I also recommend reading all of their tech articles on bulbs.

Its a lot to read, but the really good stuff comes about 2/3rds of the way through their reply with some very interesting info on high beam alternatives at the end. I've ordered a set but have not yet received them.

I wrote:

I drive a 2003 Mazda Protg 5 which uses an H7 bulb in the low beams. I have been using the Sylvania Silverstar bulbs and, although they produce adequate light, I am unhappy with their short lifespan.​

Their reply:

Actually, they don't even produce adequate light. They, like all other "extra white" bulbs, are a scam.

For reference, here's manufacturer data for output and lifespan at 13.2v for standard-wattage H1 bulbs. The numbers here are a composite of values applicable to the products of the big three makers (Osram-Sylvania, Philips-Narva, Tungsram-GE). Each manufacturer's product in each category is slightly different but not significantly so. I picked H1-type bulbs for this comparison, and while the absolute numbers differ with different bulb types, the relative comparison patterns hold good for whatever bulb type we consider (H4, 9006, whatever). Lifespan is given as Tc, the hour figure at which 63.2 percent of the bulbs have failed.

H1 (regular normal):

1550 lumens, 650 hours

Long Life (or "HalogenPlus+")

1460 lumens, 1200 hours

Ultra Long Life (or "DayLight")

1430 lumens, 3000 hours

Plus-30 High Efficacy (CPI BrightLight, Osram Super, Sylvania Xtravision, Narva Rangepower, Tungsram High Output, Philips Premium):

1700 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-50 Ultra High Efficacy (CPI Super Bright Light, Philips VisionPlus, Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, Tungsram Megalicht, but not Sylvania Silverstar):

1750 lumens, 350 hours

Plus-80/90 Mega High Efficacy (Philips Xtreme Power, Osram Night Breaker):

1780 lumens, 340 hours

Blue coated 'extra white' (CPI Bright Light Blue, Osram CoolBlue, Narva Rangepower Blue, Philips BlueVision or CrystalVision, Tungsram Super Blue or EuroBlue, Sylvania Silverstar or Silverstar Ultra, also PIAA, Hoen, Nokya, Polarg, etc):

1380 lumens, 250 hours


So that's the pattern for how lifespan and light output are related. It's worth noting that the lumen differences are not the extent of the performance differences. The filament changes required to make a long-life bulb tend to reduce the beam focus, which shortens seeing distance. And, the light color is less white and more brown. But lifespan is lengthened. The opposite filament changes are made to create the "Plus" (+30, +50, +80, +90) or Osram "Hyper" type bulbs: Lifespan is reduced, but the beam focus is better so seeing distance is longer. Light color is whiter and less brown. The takeaway message here is that even if all the filaments put out exactly the same amount of light the same lumens from a long life, a +30, a +50, a regular, an ultralong-life, etc. the headlamp performance and appearance with the long-life bulb would still be inferior compared to the same headlamp performance and appearance with a regular, or +30, or +50, or +80, or Hyper bulb.


But your car takes H7 bulbs, which means you've got a better option than the "Plus" type bulbs. Any of the blue-glass "extra white" bulbs are an absolute nonstarter as
far as seeing better is concerned. Sylvania Silverstar/Ultra, PIAA, Hoen,
BlueVision, CrystalVision, TruView, Nokya, Polarg, etc. -- all a scam.
Such bulbs produce significantly less light than even a standard bulb, so
we'll start our comparison with standard bulbs.

Osram Silverstar, Narva Rangepower+50, and Philips VisionPlus are all
"Plus+50" H7 bulbs. Philips Xtreme Power and Osram Night Breaker are both
"Plus+80"/"Plus+90" bulbs. They are, as a class, the best 55w H7s you can
buy. But, Osram offers (and I stock) an even better option with higher
output and longer life. Here is the comparison (figures at 13.2 volts):

Standard H7:
55w, 1500 lumens, 500 hours

H7 ultra "Plus+50" (any brand):
55w, 1580 lumens, 225 hours

H7 Xtreme "Plus+80" (Philips) or "Plus+90" (Osram):
55w, 1620 lumens, 200 hours

H7 rallye+65 (Osram only):
65w, 2100 lumens, 500 hours, obvious choice.

The extra 10w is of no consequence as far as electrical power or heat --
those 80w to 100w bulbs are a different story, and they produce less light
and have a shorter lifespan than the Osram 65w item. Direct order link is
http://store.candlepower.com/osraulhiouh7.html


Your high beams can also be significantly upgraded if you will Replace the
existing 9005 bulbs with 9011. The new bulbs are not some tinted or
overwattage version of 9005, but rather employ a technology called HIR, Halogen Infrared
Reflection. The mechanical dimensions of the bulb are all identical to the
9005 and 9006 bulbs, but the bulb glass is spherical instead of tubular,
with the sphere centered around the filament. There is a multilayer coating on the bulb glass, which is transparent to visible light but reflective to infrared. Infrared = heat, so the
coating causes heat to be reflected back to the filament at the center of
the sphere. This causes the filament to become much hotter (producing more
light) than it can by passing electricity through it, *without* the
shorter life or greater heat production that comes with overwattage bulbs
(to say nothing of overwattage bulbs' incompatibility with stock wiring.)

Here's the comparison:

stock: 9005, 12.8V, 65W, 1700 lumens, 320 hours
compare: 9005+50, 12.8V, 55W, 1830 lumens, 175 hours
new: HIR1, 12.8V, 65W, 2530 lumens, 320 hours

These bulbs are costly as bulbs go - $22.71/ea - but their cost is worth
considering in context: Any number of companies will charge you more than
this for a tarted-up 9005 with blue colored glass (PIAA and Sylvania
Silverstar come to mind) that doesn't produce more light and has a very
short lifespan.

The HIR bulbs have a double-wide top ear on the plastic bulb base, this is
to comply with the law requiring different bulbs to have different bases.
The extra-wide plastic top ear is easily trimmed or filed to make the bulb
fit your headlamp's bulb receptacle. Once that's done, they go directly
into the headlamp, and the existing sockets snap on. Please see
http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/HIRmod.html for details.

The direct order link for these bulbs is
http://store.candlepower.com/9011.html

Best DS

 

[yellow pro5]

ehhhh just get hids lol

 

[mx-p5]

lol. . . i speak from experience and they just work better when properly aimed

They put out more light, lumens, useable light (more glare if your headligghts are hazed over though)

But, i agree, with the P5 housings, HID's work great

 

[dpriggins]

HID's are out of the question because I'm constantly switching between hi & Lo beams. Hot striking the HID's so often would ruin them in very short order.

 

[Matt V]

Hot striking would only occur if you had the bi-xenon kit. With just the low beam HID's (at least on mine), the low beams stay on when I go to my brights.

 

[dpriggins]

Hmmm... just decked mine and you're right. They lo's do stay on when the highs are on. never knew that. My main concern is that the HID's put out a lot of light in the foreground which actually hurts your ability to see in the distance at night. Since most of my driving is at night on rural roads, avoiding deer is my main concern. Seeing those green reflections from the deers' eyes at a great distance is the key to avoidng an unscheduled, up close,\ and personal meeting with a deer.

Now that I know the lo's stay on even when the hi's are on only heightens my concern about excessive foreground light.

 

[Matt V]

You will definitely benefit from HID's then. Like many other people have said, the P5 headlights are quite decent at providing a cutoff compared to most OEM halogen housings. If you do decide to get them, get 4300k to get the most light output. I personally have this kit:

http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/Apexcone_Raptor_Brand_35W_HID_Kit-102-0.html

 

[dpriggins]

How long have you had yours and how have they held up?

The DDM site shows $29.95 for a complete conversion kit with a lifetime warranty - that can't be right.

I understand that the P5 reflectors provide a well defined cuttoff, but do the HID's put a lot of light directly in front of thecar? Too much light too close to the car causes the pupils to contract which limits your vision outside area illuminated by the headlights.

 

[Matt V]

How long have you had yours and how have they held up?

The DDM site shows $29.95 for a complete conversion kit with a lifetime warranty - that can't be right.

I understand that the P5 reflectors provide a well defined cuttoff, but do the HID's put a lot of light directly in front of thecar? Too much light too close to the car causes the pupils to contract which limits your vision outside area illuminated by the headlights.

That is the complete kit, mind you that shipping costs an additional $10-15. I've had mine for a few months now and have had no problems. I put di-electric grease in each connection when I installed them to make sure moisture didn't get between any connections, and after 5+ rain storms, I have had no issues, flickering, or anything.

If you get 4300k you won't have to worry about glare, I've noticed glare gets worse the higher the temperature is.

 

[mx-p5]

How long have you had yours and how have they held up?

The DDM site shows $29.95 for a complete conversion kit with a lifetime warranty - that can't be right.

I understand that the P5 reflectors provide a well defined cuttoff, but do the HID's put a lot of light directly in front of thecar? Too much light too close to the car causes the pupils to contract which limits your vision outside area illuminated by the headlights.

Sounds like you just need to cut the lights all together and just get night vision goggles. . . . seriously. . . lol

The HID's will be perfect for what you're talking about

 

[Tzar177]

You will definitely benefit from HID's then. Like many other people have said, the P5 headlights are quite decent at providing a cutoff compared to most OEM halogen housings. If you do decide to get them, get 4300k to get the most light output. I personally have this kit:

http://www.ddmtuning.com/products/Apexcone_Raptor_Brand_35W_HID_Kit-102-0.html

Those kits don't come in 4300k, he would have to get 4500k. Did you buy/install the accessory wiring harness?

 

[Matt V]

4300 vs 4500k is such a minimal difference, it would be the same thing.

 

[dpriggins]

Sounds like you just need to cut the lights all together and just get night vision goggles. . . . seriously. . . lol

For the same reason I am concerned about too much light right in front of the car - night vision goggles are completely useless with bright light in close proximity (at least that's been my experience).

But seriously... It all makes for a good laugh now. But wait until you see the look on a deer's eyes a fraction of a second before it splatters it's brains on a windshield 18" in front of your face. It's not so funny then. It's even less humorous when your insurance company tells you your MX-3 has been totaled.

My other serious concern about the HID's is the hundreds of stories I've read on forums like this one where people have bought systems and six months down the road something fails and the company that offered a 1, 2, 5 year or lifetime warranty is nowhere to be found. I found it odd that there's nowhere to go to find serious, critical review of the various systems or companies and none of the companies that sell these kits post any customer reviews on their websites.(exception: http://hidreview.com/ reviews 26 vendors but no reviews on the equipment they sell).

I finally found out why. DOT routinely shuts these outfits down because the conversion kits are illegal. So companies pop-up, sell the kits for six months and then disappear (along with any warranty you may have thought you had)

So why is this a concern to me? My commute starts at 3:45 AM every morning and I need my headlights to work every weekday morning. I (and the people who sign my paycheck) simply cannot and will not tolerate a lighting system that suddenly stops working (again, hundreds of stories like this on the web) and have to wait 3-4 days for parts. Or worse yet, have to buy a complete new system because the company I originally bought from no longer exists.

Just as I am sure there are reliable companies out there selling reliable HID kits with an honest warranty behind them, I am also sure that two weeks of searching has not turned up a single one that offers any independently verifiable information that they do so.

While DDM sounds good (this is not the first time I've seen their name) The BBB gives them an F rating, they have only been in business since 2001 and only have one employee. While their BBB rating is based on thin evidence this does not exactly add up to a stellar recommendation.

If anyone out there can prove me wrong or point me to a reliable company with reliable products PLEASE DO! I'd eat my serving of crow and gladly patronize a company that I feel I can rely on. (well except for that too much light in the foreground problem).

 

[mx-p5]

wow, you're rather tough to please. . .

I understand exactly where you're coming from, but, you're talking in circles now. lol

In my honest opinion, you need to do what I did

OEM Acura TL bixenon projectors with OEM Acura bulbs. I did however cheap and use DDM Tuning ballasts (for 2 years now on those ballasts) with no problems

Best OEM lighting you can with super wide light distribution, sharp cutoff, and wicked high beams

 

[dpriggins]

Projectors are a different story altogether, especially OEMs from a manufacturer with the reputation of Acura. They are designed to provide the proper light distribution for HID's. How much time, effort, $$ for the Acura OEM setup?

 

[mx-p5]

for me, it was just time and money. I didn't do the actual labor.

But, as to time, i honestly don't know. Prob 6 months per set so far.

As to cost, parts alone are close to $600

Most pro retro guys charge close to $1000 but the time table turn around is short and quality of work is good