Microtech Library

TURBOJ1 said:
You are runnung a microtech ...right?
Click to expand...

TurfBurn said:
Not sure what you guys are doing, but it's wrong. You shouldn't need any modification to the alternator or wiring if the Microtech is wired correctly. My instructions for wiring the Microtech are published out there somewhere now and the alternator works fine in that configuration. The stock ECU fully regulates the alternator in that configuration.

If you need to swap alternators (because you strip the car completely of ECU etc for racing) I believe it is the late 90's 626 alternator that works, just have to swap pulleys as the rib count is different.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have a Microtech. I also have the stock alternator which works fine with the stock ecu.

My question was in relation to using an internally regulated alternator, and the issues that have arisen with the tach (still being run by the stock ecu) and battery lights amongst many members. I'm not saying that it can't be solved, just saying that a consistent, reliable solution has not been documented.
 
Curious that you guys are seeing the battery light etc... none of the cars we did, including my own, ever had that issue or any kind of glitches with the tach.
 
haha well if your stumped, i'm super stumped... either way it's not much of an issue with the batt light, only thing is if the alternator really does give out I won't know until i get stranded in the middle of the street. I'll probably just hook the volt gauge directly to the battery... shouldn't be a problem leaving it on since it doesn't have a remote wire... i'm just glad my stupid check engine light isn't on anymore
 
Hey Steve, since you've popped in, would you be willing to share your 'advanced tuning guide' with the group? Good info on the 626 alt by the way.
 
TurfBurn said:
Not sure what you guys are doing, but it's wrong. You shouldn't need any modification to the alternator or wiring if the Microtech is wired correctly. My instructions for wiring the Microtech are published out there somewhere now and the alternator works fine in that configuration. The stock ECU fully regulates the alternator in that configuration.

If you need to swap alternators (because you strip the car completely of ECU etc for racing) I believe it is the late 90's 626 alternator that works, just have to swap pulleys as the rib count is different.
Click to expand...


Mine is wired per your instructions, and we even spoke to you over the phone while doing the install, but I am still having these power draw issues. Whenever I roll down the windows all at the same time, or create a large voltage draw the car stalls, and dies.

I can't troubleshoot mine right now though, because there's a massive hole in my block, where the rod decided to exit.
 
Alamo1 said:
Hey Steve, since you've popped in, would you be willing to share your 'advanced tuning guide' with the group? Good info on the 626 alt by the way.
Click to expand...

I'll have to dig up those files, all that stuff got archived last year. Probably have it around somewhere.
 
Knox Joe said:
Mine is wired per your instructions, and we even spoke to you over the phone while doing the install, but I am still having these power draw issues. Whenever I roll down the windows all at the same time, or create a large voltage draw the car stalls, and dies.

I can't troubleshoot mine right now though, because there's a massive hole in my block, where the rod decided to exit.
Click to expand...

Sorry to hear about the block, that always sucks. BTDT.

It's hard to know exactly what each person has going on in their configuration and what else they have done or not with the wiring. Roughly speaking, if the car wiring and ECU etc came from completely stock, once the crank signal is shared correctly with the ECU so that the tach runs correctly, the regulators from the ECU should work fine for the alternator. The battery light circuit is set up that it lights any time there is a voltage differential between the battery and the alternator output, so basically if the alternator output line to the ECU and dash is not at or above battery voltage the light comes on. If you have the light on, but 13.5 volts from the alternator then something is damaged/disconnected in the wiring. I have full wiring diagrams somewhere as well and can probably find the exact wires for you at some point.

As far as windows etc, a drop of about .2-.5 volts is normal, even on a stock setup. Sometimes slightly more. Running standalone and modified engines just amplifies the behavior, it's not that the alternator isn't regulating, it's that you are seeing the effects more.

Battery voltage correction, while useful, isn't required to resolve the issue. The issue is generated by an uptick in load on the engine, this will show up in the vacuum levels. The other way you can simulate and tune this is by easing the clutch out at idle while not touching the gas. Tune so you don't stall during that, and you'll be fine on alternator load changes at idle. You can also stabilize this by running more timing at idle (18-22 degrees with AFR of about 12.8-13.1 at idle was about what I ran on my own car).
 
I updated the first several posts under my screen name at the start of the thread with all the instructions, maps, and supplements I could find. Have fun.
 
TurfBurn said:
I updated the first several posts under my screen name at the start of the thread with all the instructions, maps, and supplements I could find. Have fun.
Click to expand...

Thanks alot Steve. All of your input and info have been a great help in my tuning and now it looks like you'll continue helping vicariously.
 
I should mention too for those struggling with the accessory/alternator load things... I believe both of the pump functions also allow timing to be added. That adjustment is actually more useful than the fuel add on the pump function about half the time.
 
Any questions or clarifications, drop a line in the thread and i'll try to reply.

Have a good weekend guys!
 
seirously considering going michrotech soon

i've heard so much misguided info about the michrotech..or maybe iw as confused..
i know there was a system that didn't work well..it was either MPI or unichip

but i'm debating between this an a MSIII
 
MPI and unichip both suck IMO.

Wouldn't worry about ms3 go for a microtech, adaptronic or a haltech :)
 
Just make sure that it's setup for a protege or you'll have to send it to microtech so they can change it to work with your crank and cam sensor setups.
 
Bumping yet again!!!

So into warm weather and the car starts acting funny again. This only seems to happen under the following conditions:
Ambient temp is over 20 Celsius
Intake temps over ~ 45 Celsius
Sitting in traffic idling at said temps or above
Idling after hot start when engine bay is heat soaked

http://flic.kr/p/ehMxKL

Oil temp does not seem to have an effect other than hot outside means hot blooded
Water temp stays somewhat normal around 88-94 Celsius in hot weather even though I've only got ac fan running
Car has not ever stalled just sputters

My thoughts could be that it might be a cam or crank sensor issue or coil issue to do with the heat

Any ideas?
 
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