Microtech Library
- Thread starter LinuxRacr
- Start date
Don't know of anyone specifically, but microtechs are used in drag cars running 100% methanol (ok, so its not 85% *ethanol* but the principle is more or less the same).
Its just a computer which controls your fuel injectors - tell them to pulse the injectors enough and it'll work fine on just about any fuel you can throw at it. You *may* need bigger injectors to deal with alcohol based fuels though - again, methanol, you burn something like 4 times the amount of fuel by volume in order to generate the same kind of horsepower that you would with regular petrol.
Maxx Mazda
Contributor
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- Stock P5
I did this with my Haltech. Both relay trigger wires that are pinned to the stock ECU can be spliced into one output from your standalone and run that way. They are a "ground activated" relay.
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
yeah... that tends to complicate things just a little
What injectors?
550cc mopar
I purchased it locally from a friend but it is from NSN cuz it has the map preloaded on the adapter.
It cranks but doesn't catch. Tried pulling the plugs and only one plug seems to be firing on start. Reason I know is because I put new plugs in and only cylinder 2 plug is dirty. I've killed the battery at one point trying to get it started. Thing is when it does catch it sputters for about 3-5sec then dies. But if I keep at it and it does idle it idles fine just really rich. I've never used a system so in depth and don't even know where to start when it comes to changing values.
I brought mine to a Microtech tuner, and he coldn't even get mine to start or idle like a stock car. for some reason the change in cll values either makes it off the scale lean, or far too rich, and there seems to be no middle ground.
If I do end up building this motor I'll be taking off the Microtech and installing a Haltech.
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
Sounds like your real close. Usually when your real rich it will just keep cranking wihout much hint of trying to turn over... lean usually it will sound like its starting to turnover but wont quite catch. You should always try to make 10% increment changes in order to see where you're at... I still haven't gotten to my install but with my Haltech running multipoint in order to get a descent idle I had to back out the recessed screw in the tb about 2 full turns in order to flow my 730cc injectors. This flows a bit more air around the throttle plate when its closed essentially raising the idle. Basically anything below 1.3ms injection time and the injectors would just dribble which when it gets hotter and the corrections kick in... more areas would need to bumped up.
I feel it's really close but don't even know where to start. So many values to change. I tried the nsn550 map but couldn't get it to start. But I reloaded the map it came with from my friend and that's the one that's really close. We had the same set up(got the turbo kit from him). Only difference is I have jdm cams, pulleys, 626im, and low comp pistons. He was also running a fpr. My fpr gauge is at 35psi.
What you should try is this.
First check the air temp it's at when trying to start.
Then go to the crank map and only change the temp you're trying to start it at. Turn it over for 3-5 seconds at a time a couple times. Then smell the tail pipe. If it reals like fuel turn it down in that cell. If it doesn't smell at all turn it up.
Then when it does catch and won't stay running you can try to change the idle map OR the afste which is after start enrichment. The afste only works for a few seconds so thats basically just to help if you need a little but more after it fires.
If your idle is 1000rpm or above you need to basically make it the same as the idle map.
First check the air temp it's at when trying to start.
Then go to the crank map and only change the temp you're trying to start it at. Turn it over for 3-5 seconds at a time a couple times. Then smell the tail pipe. If it reals like fuel turn it down in that cell. If it doesn't smell at all turn it up.
Then when it does catch and won't stay running you can try to change the idle map OR the afste which is after start enrichment. The afste only works for a few seconds so thats basically just to help if you need a little but more after it fires.
If your idle is 1000rpm or above you need to basically make it the same as the idle map.
^thanks
I'm still having a hard time during cold starts. When the car isn't cold it starts pretty easily. Another issue I'm having us stalling when releasing the throttle. My idle is pretty high at 1100-1200rpm. Also idle afr is pegged at 10.0
And what's the thing with adjusting the brass screw? Instructions say unscrew it till it feels easier to turn. Then turn it back in one full turn. Could that have something to do with me stalling when releasing the throttle. The only other way for me to counter the stall is either throttle while braking to keep the rpm up then slowly let it drop. Or raise my idle via the 8mm bolt and hex screw to an unwanted 1500rpm.
Advise please. Thank you
I'm still having a hard time during cold starts. When the car isn't cold it starts pretty easily. Another issue I'm having us stalling when releasing the throttle. My idle is pretty high at 1100-1200rpm. Also idle afr is pegged at 10.0
And what's the thing with adjusting the brass screw? Instructions say unscrew it till it feels easier to turn. Then turn it back in one full turn. Could that have something to do with me stalling when releasing the throttle. The only other way for me to counter the stall is either throttle while braking to keep the rpm up then slowly let it drop. Or raise my idle via the 8mm bolt and hex screw to an unwanted 1500rpm.
Advise please. Thank you
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Bit more timing, bit more fuel on the cold maps... I run quite rich on cold start.
Problem is with big cams it still likes to stall out until the car is warm - not a great deal I can do about it it seems. I've cracked the throttle blade open slightly because the brass screw wasn't enough to it to idle.
Hi my name is josh and i had a tuner in kansas city mo install the (microtech lt 8) i believe and tune my car. Now its a pretty good tune but i have some issues that i thought you could help with and im even willing to pay for a better tune. Anyway while cruising down the highway my afrs go to like 18.1 and it bucks a little when i barely press the peddle. also My charging system is only putting out 13.2 volts and i dont know if thats normal because i have a 400 amp alternator hooked up. also starting the car in the winter is a b****. Oh yeah one other thing , the battery will not stay charged if i let the car sit for a week or so. Thanks for any advise. I also forgot to mention that the battery light and the cel is on and i know someone mentioned a way to get the check engion light off with a resistor , any thoughts on the battery light..Im located in arizona right now but i will be back in my home town of columbia missouri after schools out in april.. As soon as i find my damn dongle ill post the map that i have in there so you guys can see it. I believe my injectors are 440cc and i have way too many mods to list right now lol
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