Microtech Library

Sounds like you don't have the right temperature sensor hooked up to the microtech or something is wrong with the connection. That would be causing the hard start problem as well. If the microtech thinks the temperature is way off then its going to be adding the wrong amount of fuel that the motor really needs.

Any of the more experienced guys agree?

Matt
 
CEL occurs if you don't wire in that resistor on the IAT, I believe. I'm not even sure if I have one or not, pretty sure my gauge cluster covers it haha.

Temperature... good idea to add coolant, make sure it is full. Verify your fans are working.

Idle... lol. Mine idle like s*** too, now it idles better but at about 1200rpm :)
 
as far as i know, the microtech will always give you a CEL and will not pass emmisions. i'm personally not concerned about either. i wouldn't imagine that the IAT would have that much effect on how the engine ran, the correction to fuel and timing is minimal compared to water temp.

your temp was at 100 after idling for 10 min., that doesn't sound right. is your cooling fan hooked up? it should be running constantly @ 60*C

if you think it idles rough now, then don't throw on some high lift cams. OMG
 
within the next couple of weeks, i am going to get a bung welded on my exhaust, so that my wideband actually works. after that, i plan on installing 268/268 cams and having it fully dyno-tuned. Its not so much that is idles rough but low. He he I hope it has a nice loop sound.
 
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your temp was at 100 after idling for 10 min., that doesn't sound right. is your cooling fan hooked up? it should be running constantly @ 60*C

if you think it idles rough now, then don't throw on some high lift cams. OMG

I replaced my s-pipe gasket which required taking off the mani, and disconnecting coolant lines. So i lost coolant in that process, which is what i believe caused the high water temp at first start up. I did add coolant but not enough i guess.
 
Well after driving for a couple of days, i noticed a few things. Besides a full tune, whenever im driving and i press the throttle the car boggs. So everytime i get on the throttle no matter what rpms, or gear it heas noticable bog. My guess mostly tuning issues.
And lastly the occasional stall out. It mainly happens when the radiatior fan is working and/or if im in neutral going less than 20mph and turning(parking).

I think most of this is tuning related, and i would like to get my idle rpm higher.
 
Well after driving for a couple of days, i noticed a few things. Besides a full tune, whenever im driving and i press the throttle the car boggs. So everytime i get on the throttle no matter what rpms, or gear it heas noticable bog. My guess mostly tuning issues.
And lastly the occasional stall out. It mainly happens when the radiatior fan is working and/or if im in neutral going less than 20mph and turning(parking).

I think most of this is tuning related, and i would like to get my idle rpm higher.

bog could be too much, or not enough on fuel going in on the pump settings - or pump settings not set to trigger at the right time.
 
bog could be too much, or not enough on fuel going in on the pump settings - or pump settings not set to trigger at the right time.

Would the guys at the shop be able to look at that and adjust it accordingly. Its hard to find a shop that specializes in microtech around here.
 
Would the guys at the shop be able to look at that and adjust it accordingly. Its hard to find a shop that specializes in microtech around here.

pump1 and pump2 are some of the most painful things to tune on the microtech - but mucking around with them on a dyno with a wideband for a couple of hours should get them right, microtech specialist or not...
 
pump1 and pump2 are some of the most painful things to tune on the microtech - but mucking around with them on a dyno with a wideband for a couple of hours should get them right, microtech specialist or not...
I really appreciate you taking the time to respond and answer all of my silly questions. Thanks(rockon)
 
Here is another question. he he. When i lightly tap the gas, and i mean lightly the car stalls out. And i cant seem to raise my idle above 880 rpms. Will tuning help with most of the issues im having??
 
Here is another question. he he. When i lightly tap the gas, and i mean lightly the car stalls out. And i cant seem to raise my idle above 880 rpms. Will tuning help with most of the issues im having??


I've had this same problem. I THINK what happens is you got either really lean or really rich immediately ... maybe a pump setting causing a surge of fuel and no increase in air ... or maybe you open up the throttle enough to ramp up air with no increase in fuel to lean out and stall.

I actually do not use Pump1 settings ... I've had difficulty tuning pump1 (Pump2 seems to be more straight-forward) ... so I set my Pump2 start RPM at zero, so Pump2 is the only active pump. You could mess around with that and see where it gets you.
 
After changing my maps and junk, my cold starts have gone to hell. It usually takes a couple tries before it starts and holds. It will die almost immediately after starting. Should I mess with the after start enrichment?
 
after start enrichment doesn't need to be messed with.... mess with your cold water temp values...

if you do the light throttle taps and it dies out it is the pump 1 settings.
 
Today I noticed that my green light is on, my amber light blinks and blinks faster as the rpm's increase, BUT I also noticed the my RED light also blinks, not as fast as the amber one in the middle, but it still blinks. What does that mean??
 
I responded via PM, but I"ll post it here as well... the red light means you have an error code present on the Microtech.. typically for something like bad wiring or a bad sensor etc... the lower right hand corner of the software screen will have a white box with an "errors" label above it... what is in that box is your error.

Later,

Steve
 
Anyone have a decent map for 440cc injectors to get started on?

make your own :)

just take it easy until you are in the ballpark with your AFRs, and then fine tune...

I always like to tune from the rich side down. Rich is safe - even if it blows a bit of smoke - so i like to guestimate my fueling requirements on the rich side, and then tune back to the AFRs i'm looking at.

There are some good starting points in the microtech manual you would have gotten with your ECU.

Unless you bought the ECU from steve or ken, i don't like your chances of getting them to give you a map....but its really not much harder to do it yourself....I've scratched tuned mine about 3 times now....
 
I bought it from Steve, and I've been running it on stock injectors for over 6 mths now. I know I can make my own map, I was just hoping to save myself a little time if there was already one posted I could use and then fine tune.
 
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