Microtech install questions
- Thread starter Jas00x
- Start date
I get the same thing. I think that's normal.
I still need to get working on my cold crank. I can get the car started, but it always takes a while. After getting my wideband 02 setup and driving the car around, I am finidng it is waaaay too lean. I'm thinking with the 1.8 having different cams than the 2.0L, I really need to start with the basics to get running right. I've got a lot of work to do...gotta get some dyno time setup.
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
I have read my MT manual cover to cover and didnt see anything about additional resistors. Mines from PG
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
ok, so its not necessary to get the MT running its like a cel eliminator.
Any have any tricks of the trade they want to share? stuff that caught them up during the install?
From what i gather from the install manual, the crank and cam sensors stay hooked up to both the stock ECU and the MT is there anything else i have to worry about splicing in wires instead of just disconnecting the stock ecu and inserting the MT wiring?
Any have any tricks of the trade they want to share? stuff that caught them up during the install?
From what i gather from the install manual, the crank and cam sensors stay hooked up to both the stock ECU and the MT is there anything else i have to worry about splicing in wires instead of just disconnecting the stock ecu and inserting the MT wiring?
Stock ecu needs to remain to drive the dash unit. I just got through installing a microtech with twiggy on another car (the owner of which I am sure is going to be talking it up on the forums once he gets the car back!).
Trick 1) resistor between the power and ground of the stock Air temp sensor...this essentially means that the stock ecu is still seeing an air temp signal (temp sensors are just temp sensitive resistors, change in resistance corelates to change in temp) - killing the battery warning light (f*cks me why it turns the bat light on, not the CEL....but ya get that).
Trick 2) this wasn't my trick, the dude who owns the car decided it'd be a smart move - install a second water temp sensor. There is probably a billion ways you can do this - but basically one for the stock water temp gauge/ecu, and 1 for the microtech. Result: stock ecu knows enough to make the instrument cluster water temp gauge to work, AND you get improved stock idle air control (because it uses this reading, along with other readings to work out what to do).
Trick 3) use the stock IAC. I use the microtech to control mine because i have to due to the way its all wired in. I don't recommend letting the microtech handle this job as it is really not designed to do it nicely....sure it works, but not well. The stock IAC, in conjuction with an auxillary water temp sensor will result in a way better idle, better cold start and hot starts etc and possible reduction in HOURS of tuning startup and idle.
Trick 4) Do as much as you can in the car. I used to think this was a bad idea, but the "brief" for the job I just did with twiggy was to make the thing cold swappable, something which we succeeded in doing by wiring 100% of everything INSIDE the car. Took a bit more working out, but the result was a more stock looking engine bay, and paradoxically better signals from the cam and crank sensors (probably because the splice occured away from things with high electrical interference like coil packs and so on.....
Beyond those tricks, you're on your own. There are other tricks for the australian version of the car relating to getting the tach working beautifully and so on - but we have different sensors and so forth.
Trick 1) resistor between the power and ground of the stock Air temp sensor...this essentially means that the stock ecu is still seeing an air temp signal (temp sensors are just temp sensitive resistors, change in resistance corelates to change in temp) - killing the battery warning light (f*cks me why it turns the bat light on, not the CEL....but ya get that).
Trick 2) this wasn't my trick, the dude who owns the car decided it'd be a smart move - install a second water temp sensor. There is probably a billion ways you can do this - but basically one for the stock water temp gauge/ecu, and 1 for the microtech. Result: stock ecu knows enough to make the instrument cluster water temp gauge to work, AND you get improved stock idle air control (because it uses this reading, along with other readings to work out what to do).
Trick 3) use the stock IAC. I use the microtech to control mine because i have to due to the way its all wired in. I don't recommend letting the microtech handle this job as it is really not designed to do it nicely....sure it works, but not well. The stock IAC, in conjuction with an auxillary water temp sensor will result in a way better idle, better cold start and hot starts etc and possible reduction in HOURS of tuning startup and idle.
Trick 4) Do as much as you can in the car. I used to think this was a bad idea, but the "brief" for the job I just did with twiggy was to make the thing cold swappable, something which we succeeded in doing by wiring 100% of everything INSIDE the car. Took a bit more working out, but the result was a more stock looking engine bay, and paradoxically better signals from the cam and crank sensors (probably because the splice occured away from things with high electrical interference like coil packs and so on.....
Beyond those tricks, you're on your own. There are other tricks for the australian version of the car relating to getting the tach working beautifully and so on - but we have different sensors and so forth.
jimmysuite
Member
- :
- 2003 Mazda Protege5
^^^ Thanks LW, I officially owe you a beer. What exactly does IAC stand for?
Anyone with an LT-10s have issues with the main cooling fan not turning on according to water temp? I have to set mine on the RPM to get it to work. In the install directions, its unclear, but it sounds like the 10s doesn't work as a fan controller via the water sensor.
twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
check you're using the right output. since the 10 has 3 outputs, they all do their own thing. one is activated on water temp, one is activated on rpm, and i think the other is spare (have to tell MT what you want for it). since you say you have to set yours on rpm, i'd be sure you're using the wrong output
The other one isn't spare, by default its stepper motor control, but can be configured for PWM (primative boost control that apparently sucks the big one)
Its the inputs that need to be looked at.
By default, i *think* input 2 is used for 2step rev limiter, input triggered timing trim, input triggered fuel trim, and idle air control idle up.
So basically, you use that input for 2step, OR nitrous timing control OR idling up your idle controller if the microtech is in charge of it...but never any combination of 2 or more of those settings (unless you want a massive rev limit slapping you in the teeth when your air conditioner idles up your idle control....or your nitrous switch activates...)...
The other one i have no idea what it does..... i've tried testing it and can't see whats going on... so i think it does nothing unless you ask for it to be programmed....
twilightprotege
Member
- :
- 2001 323 Astina SP20 (P5)
yeah you need to splice (and cut) the stock wires. the 2 signal wires need to go back to the stock ecu (cant remember the colours of them)
my car sits at 88 degrees c
my car sits at 88 degrees c
only in metric as far as i know... they are after all built in australia - we converted to metric years ago
Thats cool..At least I know that now before I fire it up... I guess I will have to make me a handy-dandy Conversion Chart to keep with it for reference purposes.only in metric as far as i know... they are after all built in australia - we converted to metric years ago
huh?
sender is little more than a resistor man... temp sensitive resistor.
The microtech measures the resistance on it, and calculates temperature accordingly....the sender isn't sending the temp in F or C.
