mechanical help needed

[kaizen0076]

Hi, i drive a manual protege, just joined the darkside a month ago and have been getting this problem eversince. Upon clutching in before down shifting, my engine accasionally stalls, if it does not stall, the rpm needle sometimes drops to 100 to 200rpm before returning to normal. The rpm needles also drops very quickly during the shifting of gears.What could be the problem? There has been a couple of occasions when i clutch in n try to downshift before a corner, the engine stalls before i could release the clutch thus locking the steering wheel. Any gurus can help? thks in advance.(omg)

 

[gone_fishin]

Hi, i drive a manual protege, just joined the darkside a month ago and have been getting this problem eversince. Upon clutching in before down shifting, my engine accasionally stalls, if it does not stall, the rpm needle sometimes drops to 100 to 200rpm before returning to normal. The rpm needles also drops very quickly during the shifting of gears.What could be the problem? There has been a couple of occasions when i clutch in n try to downshift before a corner, the engine stalls before i could release the clutch thus locking the steering wheel. Any gurus can help? thks in advance.(omg)

Hello and welcome. What's the story at idle in and out of gear?

 

[Keegz]

I'm gonna take a guess, and say that it could be your EGR... clean it.

 

[kaizen0076]

hmm, what do mean by idle in and out of gear..care to elaborate..newbie here

 

[kaizen0076]

Thks for the reply..i'll get it checked

 

[gone_fishin]

I'm gonna take a guess, and say that it could be your EGR... clean it.

Are there and leaks that you've noticed? Funny smells or smoke from the exhaust? And to keegz, that might be the case if it bogs and stalls at idle as well. if it stalls at idle as well, it could be EGR solenoid, PCV valve, a gasket, a cracked intake mani, or a vacuum leak somewhere. It could be so many things, I'd recommend going to autozone and borrowing their diagnostics computer. Hook it up and write down the codes. Someone here can either translate them for you, or call the closest mazda dealership and ask them.

 

[gone_fishin]

hmm, what do mean by idle in and out of gear..care to elaborate..newbie here

I mean when the car is idling both in gear and out of gear. What do the rpms do in nuetral? And once you put it in gear with the clutch disengaged (idling-- clutch pedal in), what do the rpms do there?

 

[kaizen0076]

I mean when the car is idling both in gear and out of gear. What do the rpms do in nuetral? And once you put it in gear with the clutch disengaged (idling-- clutch pedal in), what do the rpms do there?

the idle when in neutral gear is no different from idling in 1st gear with clutch depressed. the idling stay as they are at ard 800 with aircon on
my trottle body is enlarged..any connections there? thks for helping

 

[kaizen0076]

whenever i depress my brakes, it squeals..what could be the problem? brake pump, booster, pads, rotors...ah????somebody help

 

[gone_fishin]

pads most likely. go to autozone for the idling problem and use the diagnostics computer.

 

[orng1]

Squeals as metalic or as a whistle? I've had too many problems with vac to even mention, that could be a problem to cause you to stall or maybe you have a BOV that is releasing too much air as you shift. What is your set up?

 

[kaizen0076]

Squeals as metalic or as a whistle? I've had too many problems with vac to even mention, that could be a problem to cause you to stall or maybe you have a BOV that is releasing too much air as you shift. What is your set up?

metallic sound.

 

[dinux]

You're only going to get codes from the diagnostic systems at AutoZone if he has a check engine light. As far as I am aware, he didn't say he had one. The one thing that stood out to me was the fact that you said when it stalls and you're turning it locks the stearing wheel. Sounds to me like your ignition is going because you're stearing wheel wont lock as long as the key is still in the on position if the car stalls, it will lock if the key slips down though to the off position when the car stalls which will kill the car if the key does slip. In this case, replace the ignition.

Does your cars idle jump around at all when sitting at idle? If so, you've probably got a vaccum leak somewhere causing that problem. If you're car is turboed it could be that you BOV is releasing too much air as kaizen suggested.

As far as your sqealing when you brake it's probably due to cheap break pads. What kind of pads are on your ride?

 

[kaizen0076]

You're only going to get codes from the diagnostic systems at AutoZone if he has a check engine light. As far as I am aware, he didn't say he had one. The one thing that stood out to me was the fact that you said when it stalls and you're turning it locks the stearing wheel. Sounds to me like your ignition is going because you're stearing wheel wont lock as long as the key is still in the on position if the car stalls, it will lock if the key slips down though to the off position when the car stalls which will kill the car if the key does slip. In this case, replace the ignition.

Does your cars idle jump around at all when sitting at idle? If so, you've probably got a vaccum leak somewhere causing that problem. If you're car is turboed it could be that you BOV is releasing too much air as kaizen suggested.

As far as your sqealing when you brake it's probably due to cheap break pads. What kind of pads are on your ride?

Thks all, the squealing is gone, the mechanic took the pads out, did a clean up the pads, callipers n hooyah, the sound is gone. Never notice the ignition portion before, will check it out the next drive to work..thks..The mechanic suggested that the stalling could be due to the enlarged throttle body.he said that the airflow in a protege is very sensitive.He suggested i get a stock throttle body, put bit on and see whether the problem is still there...Any Gurus?During idle, the needle jumps a little...not more than 100rpm diff. What should i do if the bov is releasing too much air? btw what is VAC?

 

[03MSP]

VAC is vacuum, on a boost/vac gauge it will be below 0. You might have a vacuum leak that is causing you to stall.

If you have a BOV that could be it, can't do much about it except either recirculate it or relocate your mass airflow sensor after the BOV. Tightening the adjustment screw on the top of your BOV might help a little if that does turn out to be the problem.

 

[Little Beavis]

What BOV do you have? You most likely have your MAF before the turbo as well, sounds like you're stalling from losing metered air. Got a pic of under your hood?

 

[gone_fishin]

Thks all, the squealing is gone, the mechanic took the pads out, did a clean up the pads, callipers n hooyah, the sound is gone. Never notice the ignition portion before, will check it out the next drive to work..thks..The mechanic suggested that the stalling could be due to the enlarged throttle body.he said that the airflow in a protege is very sensitive.He suggested i get a stock throttle body, put bit on and see whether the problem is still there...Any Gurus?During idle, the needle jumps a little...not more than 100rpm diff. What should i do if the bov is releasing too much air? btw what is VAC?

Swapping the throttle body is very easy. I can walk you through it if you'd like. A rough idle could be deposit buildup within the EGR valve. Cleaning it is very simple as well, and can be done when you swap out the throttle body. Take a look at this thread, it's a how-to for EGR removal and cleaning/ rough idle fix (credit to britt).

http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788&highlight=rough+idle+fix

A vacuum leak would tend to make the car stall even at idle, so if this is only an isolated case when you're throttling, it may not be a leak. There's always a chance that it could be a faulty ignition system, but you'd likely be encountering much more noticeable and serious problems if that were the case. When you swap out the throttle body, you might as well torque down the intake manifold bolts properly (just to be sure), and take a look at your IM-throttle body gasket-- check for corrosion or tears. If none of these fix the problem, you can try adjusting your BOV as necessary (tighten the valve). There's also a chance it could be a malfunctioning MAF, which is certainly a no-brainer to replace, but can be expensive.