Mazdaspeed2oo35 Engine Build Round 2

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because what happened is that when i installed the cams, some lifters touches the cams and some have gaps between, so my mechanic told me i need to get the top part of the lifters which you can remove and get them in the thickness i need for all of them to be even do i make sense ? he took one of t he lifters off and through the bottom of the lifter with a screw driver he took the battery looking type thing of the lifter i remember its 27mm diameter but we need to measure all of them and buy them in the thickess we need in order to all of them be even with the cams, according to him all the lifter should have a gap between the cams, and some do and some dont. i believe ive heard him saying something about when the valves gets hot they close or some s*** like that..

yeah, you basically need to do a valve lash (gap between lifter and cam) adjustment. since you don't have rockers, its a lil more fun than your average pushrod engine... but yes, your explaination of how to adjust them is correct.
 
yeah, you basically need to do a valve lash (gap between lifter and cam) adjustment. since you don't have rockers, its a lil more fun than your average pushrod engine... but yes, your explaination of how to adjust them is correct.

thats what is holding me from finishing up the engine and mount it to the car, im hoping my mechanic can get them battery looking s*** made to spec to finish up my ride, he said the hydraulic to mechanical conversion is awesome because they work and are better for high horsepower engine and application.


i hope he can get them made here, if not with his measurements of thickness i can get them from there in USA hope not because that is going to take time plus shipping time.. ****... do you have an idea how much those s**** run for ? Jesus money, money and more ******* money i hope they are not expensive..

i was so ******* excited that i was almost done, just needed to tighten the bolts of the cams, put the valve cover, add the pulleys, timing belt cover, and done, well flywheel and clutch assembly and thats it but well s*** happends.. is not a big deal anyway
 
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yeah, hydraulic lifters aren't high-RPM friendly. I don't see why you couldn't do the lifters in the car... it'd be a lil more awkard, obviously, but if thats all you're waiting on, drop her in and start hookin up the rest of the s***!
 
yeah, hydraulic lifters aren't high-RPM friendly. I don't see why you couldn't do the lifters in the car... it'd be a lil more awkard, obviously, but if thats all you're waiting on, drop her in and start hookin up the rest of the s***!

Yeah, ill try do to the rest and then when i go back there tomorrow i hope he have the solution for this damn issue, if not how and where can i find out if they make them or sell them with the thickness i need ? how do you really call that battery looking s*** ?
 
Remember that the head that i currently own right now didnt came with the car, TBK-Hiboost brought it outside USA and i dont know from what car was it, mazda or ford i dont know, and my mechanic told me they did Hydraulic to Mechanical conversion, actually he showed me some stuff in there that clearly shows it was Hydraulic before...
well your mechanic is wrong (not blaming him since he doesn't specialize in mazdas or proteges)

your head is a 98-99 626 head ("low" or "normal" power 626 from 97-00 in europe) based on the "FS2" casting mark... since it's clear there's no hole for the disty, it's definitely a 98-99 head... all FS engines after 98 (97 in the rest of the world) have solid lifters... NO HLAs
 
because what happened is that when i installed the cams, some lifters touches the cams and some have gaps between, so my mechanic told me i need to get the top part of the lifters which you can remove and get them in the thickness i need for all of them to be even do i make sense ? he took one of t he lifters off and through the bottom of the lifter with a screw driver he took the battery looking type thing of the lifter i remember its 27mm diameter but we need to measure all of them and buy them in the thickess we need in order to all of them be even with the cams, according to him all the lifter should have a gap between the cams, and some do and some dont. i believe ive heard him saying something about when the valves gets hot they close or some s*** like that..
when you installed the aftermarket cams, the base circles aren't perfect/close to the stock cams... thats why you have to reset the lash

if the gap is too big, the valve is closed too much and it can damage the valve seat... the valve will also never fully open to its potential (based on the cam's lift).... if the gap is too small, the valve stays partially open and you lose compression and burn up the valve

there is no need to waste time and money getting the parts from the US

all you have to do is buy the shims for a BJ 323F Sport 2.0 at your local dealer.... it has an FS-DE!
 
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Good news guys, i just came back from my mechanic shop and what i saw and was told was hell of good news.. Problem with the shims fixed, They have readjust all of the valvetrain and did all shims to spec. i couldnt believe how quick they fixed the problem. Also they have remeasure my cams because they seem to be stock FS-D7 Intake and Exhaust but TBK-Hiboost Regrind them for more lift, i believe i heard my mechanic say 275 or 285 lift ill make sure tomorrow here are some real nice pics of what the engine is looking like as of today, i cant wait to drive this thing.. Jesus ******* Christ !!!


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lol man i wish my build turns out as good as yours, im only shooting for half the power you are though so it should be easier, hopefully
 
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