Mazda5 real-world Mileage numbers

[rweatherford]

Ok I guess I'm getting old. What does "stage 6" mean. I realize that this is some type of new way of describing modification stages, but why does it seem so hokey to me. Sounds like some fast and furious crap.

Where do the stages end? I mean I had a custom turbo charged car with a complete stand alone ECU which I programmed, but I never made up a "stage #" system to describe my mods. Is there some type of standard or do people just make this crap up?

I could easily get my 5 to go from 23 MPG to 40 MPG just by changing my driving style. Actually I've never gotten as low as 23 MPG, but it would be very possible. That's why I'm pretty skeptical about this kind of stuff.

 

[5zoom]

I got 31.3mpg with my 08 5AT yesterday with the AC running about 20% of the time. Based on my scangauge, the AC draw of MPG/HP at speed is pretty significant, especially when going uphill. I filled up with 405 on the tank and based on the math, I would have come just shy of the magic 500 mile mark if I had run it dry. My gas light was on for about 20 miles before I filled up. Anyone run more than 50 miles with the light on before?

 

[coolmazda5]

My gas light was on for about 20 miles before I filled up. Anyone run more than 50 miles with the light on before?

Here you go, check this thread

http://www.mazdav.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123701106

 

[jeebusm3]

My 08 touring AT usually consumes 23-25 MPG with K&N air filter. However, I've just given MindBlower Performance Stage 6 Chip a shot, and woala .... I have been getting 28-30 MPG. All measurements are taking based on my 80hwy/20city commute. Bottom line is, beleive it or not, MindBlower performance stage6 really works on our car.

Those chips are absolutely dangerous to use on any vehicle. They are simply tricking the IAT sensor. Something which you DO NOT WANT TO DO. The IAT (intake air temp sensor) is key in letting the engine computer know how much fuel to put into the motor. Generally, these sensors trick the computer into running more lean. Running lean will increase your fuel economy under certain conditions because it is using less fuel. Running lean will also increase power (to a point). The problem is, the motors are not designed to run lean. They are designed to run the proper air/fuel mixture based on many factors. The intake air sensor is crucial to proper mixes.

Running lean increases temperatures inside each cylinder. Under certain conditions you might run so lean (a really hot day for example), that you misfire. Not only can that throw a Check Engine light, but it also will damage your motor over time. Your knock sensors will also get a workout from all the knocking you end up doing, and that will decrease your timing effectively choking power.

It is truly sickening how many people are fooled into buying these $30 performance "chips" (they aren't even chips BTW). I would never, ever buy a car from someone that had one installed. And despite what their ads say, it WILL void your warranty from the manufacturer.

 

[coolmazda5]

Good stuff. My only n00b comment about those things: if these "chips" cost that kind of money, save that large amount of fuel and they are so easy to implement, why not any car manufacturer has put anything similar on their cars during production especially at $4 a gallon? (scratch)

 

[straw10]

I was thinking the same thing with the fuel light. Mine lit up, I drove about 10-15 more miles and it only took 13.3 to shut off. Seems as it might be even a touch more than 2.5 gal. Also how do you insert your mileage stamp from either gassavers.org or cleanmpg.com? I see you have one up there Rex...

 

[rweatherford]

I was thinking the same thing with the fuel light. Mine lit up, I drove about 10-15 more miles and it only took 13.3 to shut off. Seems as it might be even a touch more than 2.5 gal. Also how do you insert your mileage stamp from either gassavers.org or cleanmpg.com? I see you have one up there Rex...

Put this into your signature.

[IMG]http://www.cleanmpg.com/garage/images/XXX.png[/IMG]

Change the XXX to your PNG number in your mileage log. If you send me your username I might be able to help you some more.

Should look like this.

Change the XXX to your PNG number in your mileage log. If you send me your username on the other boards I might be able to help you some more.

 

[jeebusm3]

Good stuff. My only n00b comment about those things: if these "chips" cost that kind of money, save that large amount of fuel and they are so easy to implement, why not any car manufacturer has put anything similar on their cars during production especially at $4 a gallon? (scratch)

That would be the obvious thought, even if you didn't understand any technical details of the "chip" at all. Common sense.

I will elaborate a bit on what would differentiate one of these ebay "chips" from a real chip or programmer.

The ebay chip just splices into one sensor's wiring and through a voltage mod, it changes the signal that goes from that sensor to the computer.

A real chip or programmer, like something you'd get from SuperChips, Cobb, Dinan, etc...these are devices that actually alter the mapping of your car's computer system. The computer has timing maps, fuel curve maps, throttle pedal maps, boost maps (some cars), and many more. These maps all work with eachother in the computer's brain and give the best combination of what the car needs. When temperatures change in coolant, air, when fuel gets more knock prone, sooooo many variables to list....things will change. That's how our cars run so well no matter what conditions are occuring.

The developers of these real chips spend months or even years working on altering these numbers to make something more ideal occur (like more power, more MPG, etc) They also monitor the vehicles under many conditions as they make these changes. They use sensors all over the place that are even more sensitive that the ones on the car itself. It's a very long, but careful process, that results in something they can sell without too much worry it will damage a vehicle. Though it can still happen and in most cases, will void your warranty as well.

That's why a real chip or programmer costs $250, $500, even $1000. It's not a big ripoff scheme. But the $30 chips....they ARE a ripoff scheme.

 

[straw10]

Rex,

I have the address, but it won't show up in the signature. My name is the same straw10 on cleanmpg.com

 

[coolmazda5]

sooooo many variables to list....things will change. That's how our cars run so well no matter what conditions are occuring.

The developers of these real chips spend months or even years working on altering these numbers to make something more ideal occur (like more power, more MPG, etc) They also monitor the vehicles under many conditions as they make these changes. They use sensors all over the place that are even more sensitive that the ones on the car itself. It's a very long, but careful process, that results in something they can sell without too much worry it will damage a vehicle. Though it can still happen and in most cases, will void your warranty as well.

That's why a real chip or programmer costs $250, $500, even $1000. It's not a big ripoff scheme. But the $30 chips....they ARE a ripoff scheme.

Yeah, I hear ya, my first student cars used carburetor and I can tell you that fine-tuning was really fine-tuning during those days . I used to live on a high altitude city and when going to the beach with friends (sea level) the car would feel/drive completely different, to even the point of misfiring or failing to start in the mornings at the 1st try. Now the ECU/sensors/blah/blah do a lot for this, to the point of not perceiving altitude nor different driving styles. And the price for those real chips/programmers (if doing the right thing w/o breaking something else) would really change car production costs if you ask (ugh)

Anyway, keeping on topic, I just have to be alert on tire pressure and eventual service at this point to keep decent MPG, not bad after all. I could go much higher on MPG I guess but I cannot just drive very lightly on a Manual Transmission car

 

[rweatherford]

Rex,

I have the address, but it won't show up in the signature. My name is the same straw10 on cleanmpg.com

Copy and paste this into the end of your sig.

[img]http://www.cleanmpg.com/garage/images/2380.png[/img]

To get this...

You can also do this and a few other options if you search around over there.

For the E30 mileage hit.... The tanks in May are mixed E30. I don't see much of anything..... The 36 MPG tank is the STL trip by myself with a full grille block on the way down and AC use on the way back with a passenger and luggage. Cruise on the way back set on 60 MPH. I had 40 MPG when I pulled into the airport.

Here is a history option.

More info on my log here.

 

[straw10]

Thanks...I think I forgot the extra slash at the end.

 

[flamtap]

My first tank on a '09 sport MT came to 24.7 mpg for purely city driving.

I may try to drive "nicer" for a tank sometime to see how well I can do.

My office is moving in a few weeks and my commute will involve more highway travel then, so hoping to see even better numbers. Although that move involves driving about 20 more miles a day so it won't be saving me any $$.

flamtap

 

[coolmazda5]

My first tank on a '09 sport MT came to 24.7 mpg for purely city driving.

Same number reported from wife yesterday, 2008 Mazda5 MT US, purely city driving as well (that poor thing does not know what 5th gear is, will work on that (laugh))

 

[Ogre]

2008 Touring AT A/C blasting all the time.

We have seen right around 25 mpg on 2 tanks with city, rural driving mix.
I was very happy to see 28 mpg on a 600 mile round trip driving 80mph and with 80 miles of 6 passenger city/rural use in that mix as well.

I was quite surprised how low the AT equipped 5 tachs on the highway.
Almost as low as my V8 truck. I was well under 3K @ 80 as I remember.
All other 4 cyls I have owned are well over 3K, some into 4K at that speed.

 

[Redlinez]

These things are decent, but our 08 Honda Odyssey did get 26mpg going from Raleigh NC to Gatlinburg TN with me driving 75-84 the whole way with ac on. Honda and GM have got gas mileage figured out IMHO. Our old Mazda6 wagon 5A average 22mpg and got 26mpg on highway drives loaded down to Florida.

 

[dfskinner]

Anyone seen or heard anything about the "Hydrogen Boost Cell"? I'm thinking of installing it on my 5 to see if I can double the MPG.......

 

[sunrun176]

Anyone seen or heard anything about the "Hydrogen Boost Cell"? I'm thinking of installing it on my 5 to see if I can double the MPG.......

Uhh... Not to rain on your parade, but I smell snake oil. I googled "Hydrogen Boost Cell" and found a number of different vendors of these systems.

Don't ya think if this technology really worked as well as is claimed by the vendor that it would've been picked up by a major automaker, especially in this new wave of interest in fuel efficiency?

Then there's the distinct possibility that this could give Mazda a ready excuse to refuse warranty coverage for anything touched by the install should you have engine problems afterward. As a matter of fact, one of the sites says, "Start off with an older car or truck. I don't recommend to install one of these in a any new car, it may void your warranty. These boosters are meant to mend an old car." (emphasis mine) (from http://waterpoweredcar.com/hydrobooster2.html, which is about building one yourself as opposed to buying a kit with a highly questionable money-back guarantee)

Basically, I wouldn't do it, man.

IDK.. Maybe it's just that I'm a skeptic at heart. (dunno)

 

[OC PATRICK]

between 18-20 mpg, 25%hwy, with auto, 2 kids, and a wife who likes to idle w/AC

 

[5zoom]

Optimal Speed for MPG

I was wondering if anyone has paid attention to what MPH is best on the 5 for MPG. I find that at a constant 72mph or so I'm getting between 32-33mpg with no AC and about 27-30mpg with AC on auto. I'm basing my numbers on my own math at fill up as well as constant montioring of my scangauge. I have an 08 5AT.