Mazda323_T Project Thread....advice or help wanted.

[badmanners]

Hey guys, So me(Charles) and Mazda323_T(Chris) are working on the 323 GT 88 1.6T FWD. I've gone ahead and made a checklist of the things we need to do. Please don't shy away from contributing to the list of things we need to check or how to go about it.

Tomorrow I'm removing the entire engine harness and repairing EVERYTHING as well as having the stock IC TIG welded at a friends garage so we can see if the car has any other problems. When I drove it to my dads garage Thursday the idle and rpms were very unstable. At idle it would chock without a decent amount of gas (2000rpm) and during driving, getting above 3000rpm was difficult and while I was trying to accelerate a Green light showing the turbine kept flashing, so I'm guessing either overboost from the turbo so it was detecting a pressure drop.

A few other things. I have no speedo reading or Temperature reading on the cluster. The temp reading might be due to a cut wire which I will check out tomorrow but I'm worried about the plastic wheel on the transmission that transmites the signal through the cable to the cluster. Where can I find this part, how much is it and how hard to change(write-ups please)

So here's the checklist:

16 New Lug Nuts - Bought today
Attach + Adjust Hood Latch
Attach Air Flow Meter and create bracket
Attach Bumper and Bumper Support
Attach Fenders + Align
Attach Grill and headlights
Blow Off Valve (next summer)
Boost Controller (how much psi is safe on stock IC?)
Boost Gauge ($50 from autoparts store)
Change Coolant
Change Fuel Filter
Change PCV Valve - Bought today, any write-ups of where it is?
Check All Lights
Check all suspension
Check Floor
Check Power Steering Fluid
Check Turbo Oil Fitting - Owner said it was leaking
Clean and Adjust Handbrake
Delete EGR - Which hoses do I block?
Fix Glovebox - Missing Lock Latch, anybody have a source for this?
Fix Inner Plastic Fender
Fix Intercooler - Doing tomorrow with TIG welder
Fix Shifter Bushings - Only have 3rd, 5th and Reverse....sometimes
Fix Shock Tower
Fix Trunk Lock - It needs a new trunk lock + key, anybody got one?
Front/Rear Disks + Pads
Front right tie-rod
Get new P-Flow +adapter - Ordered, installing next week
Open All Door Panels and grease window motors
Open Headliner and check sunroof motor - I hear it turning but no movement, help?
Repair Engine Wiring Harness - Doing tomorrow
Shifter Knob - Anybody have one for cheap, otherwise ebay I think.
Used Battery
Wiper/Washer System - Everything was disconnected and there is no reservoir, anybody have a source for this piece?


The things that have been done to the car by previous owner are pretty much just the spark plugs, wires, cap and maybe the rotor, he doesnt remember the rotor and he changed ALL the vacuum hoses.

Any input would be great, thanks guys

 

[88323GT]

Well, first off, Mazda OEM parts are going to be your best friend for all wear and tear items. PCV (Mazda OEM holds boost PSI much better) Fuel Filter, etc. Compression check would be good. If your at the very least 105 across the board, you should be ok for a while. The stock intercooler system will handle 16+ PSI. Boost control, I would go with the HKS. You can also ge the HKS Manual Boost control install kit which includes a nice cast J pipe. Switch all your hose connections to screw type, Not Plyer pry type. For intercooler, if your doing something anymore elaberate then stock, Use Tbolts. Dont even think about cranking the boost up without a remapped ECU (available from www.Corksport.com ). Once that is done, set no further then 16 psi, and keep in mind, and allow for any boost creep. Get a nice/desent cone filter for better breathing. Also, after remapping the ECU, you will want to dissconnect the overboost detector. 2 wire white plug behind intake mani on firewall. By now I hope you checked the turbo for any shaft play. If its loose, your bound to run into trouble. If so, have it rebuilt. Tokico's are great shocks. If the car does have them, and they are good, keep them. Window motors. They use a plastic bead type system. Clean the beads and relube them. Lithium grease has worked well for me on this. The Sunroof motor/drive sounds shot. Likely will need to replace. If it is indeed electric, you can get a whole good moonroof from the JY from an early 90's BG Ford Escort. They are a direct fit. If you just want the panel electric roof, look for a BG Protege. Speedometer. Your Speedo cable is a two peice system. Just 2 months ago, mine broke as well. Found the lower/second part of the cable snapped. Very easy fix. Unscrew from the transmission, and unscrew from cable #1. JY will help. Cables from N/A 323's are the same and easy to source. When installing, see that the new cable spins freely on both ends. Then load it with white lithium greese. Install. If the gear is bad, All it takes is a 10mm socket and a long ass extension. Unbolt and pull out. This point should tell the story.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT run anything less then premium in the B6T. You will detinate like crazy and the car will just plane suck, not to mention will cuase you problems later on. If absolutely necessary, it will run on Plus, but its not recomended. Synthetic oils . I have never used anything else then synthetic oil in my B6T's. More of a personall Prefrence then anything. I think it helps the engine, but all be danmed if it doesnt find every single gap, or bad seal in the system. Washer bottle. Again, The JY is your Friend. You will come to love the JY when it comes to parts you cant get any longer.IF you ever need anything for the B6t motor and cant get it new, Look for Mercury Capri's. You are likely not to ever find a 323 GT/GTX in the JY, although on rare and i mean very rare occasions, in which you should, just buy the whole danm car and part out every last good part on it. Hope this helpse to get you started.....

 

[badmanners]

Well, first off, Mazda OEM parts are going to be your best friend for all wear and tear items. PCV (Mazda OEM holds boost PSI much better) Fuel Filter, etc. Compression check would be good. If your at the very least 105 across the board, you should be ok for a while. The stock intercooler system will handle 16+ PSI. Boost control, I would go with the HKS. You can also ge the HKS Manual Boost control install kit which includes a nice cast J pipe. Switch all your hose connections to screw type, Not Plyer pry type. For intercooler, if your doing something anymore elaberate then stock, Use Tbolts. Dont even think about cranking the boost up without a remapped ECU (available from www.Corksport.com ). Once that is done, set no further then 16 psi, and keep in mind, and allow for any boost creep. Get a nice/desent cone filter for better breathing. Also, after remapping the ECU, you will want to dissconnect the overboost detector. 2 wire white plug behind intake mani on firewall. By now I hope you checked the turbo for any shaft play. If its loose, your bound to run into trouble. If so, have it rebuilt. Tokico's are great shocks. If the car does have them, and they are good, keep them. Window motors. They use a plastic bead type system. Clean the beads and relube them. Lithium grease has worked well for me on this. The Sunroof motor/drive sounds shot. Likely will need to replace. If it is indeed electric, you can get a whole good moonroof from the JY from an early 90's BG Ford Escort. They are a direct fit. If you just want the panel electric roof, look for a BG Protege. Speedometer. Your Speedo cable is a two peice system. Just 2 months ago, mine broke as well. Found the lower/second part of the cable snapped. Very easy fix. Unscrew from the transmission, and unscrew from cable #1. JY will help. Cables from N/A 323's are the same and easy to source. When installing, see that the new cable spins freely on both ends. Then load it with white lithium greese. Install. If the gear is bad, All it takes is a 10mm socket and a long ass extension. Unbolt and pull out. This point should tell the story.
DO NOT, I repeat, DO NOT run anything less then premium in the B6T. You will detinate like crazy and the car will just plane suck, not to mention will cuase you problems later on. If absolutely necessary, it will run on Plus, but its not recomended. Synthetic oils . I have never used anything else then synthetic oil in my B6T's. More of a personall Prefrence then anything. I think it helps the engine, but all be danmed if it doesnt find every single gap, or bad seal in the system. Washer bottle. Again, The JY is your Friend. You will come to love the JY when it comes to parts you cant get any longer.IF you ever need anything for the B6t motor and cant get it new, Look for Mercury Capri's. You are likely not to ever find a 323 GT/GTX in the JY, although on rare and i mean very rare occasions, in which you should, just buy the whole danm car and part out every last good part on it. Hope this helpse to get you started.....

Well, that was some rant....lol... I'll try to follow here.

So not boost controller till the ecu gets chipped?

Can you give me a link for the t-bolts and couplings for future FMIC?

If I disconnected the Overboost Sensor, won't I get a CEL?

I believe the car to be on Tokico Blue's when I changed the flat tire, but cant be sure till it's on the lift....And the springs have been cut....better options?

Any idea about the shifter bushings? If they are finished, it would just be easier to make new ones vs. buying them?

 

[badmanners]

Alright guys....bad news....got half way through the wiring when I noticed a wire going in between the intake manifold and head. So I decided to take it out, however there are bolts underneath so I put it on the lift and to my horror saw how bad the car is.

For Starters: 2 Bolts MISSING on lower table, 1 Bolt missing on caliper, other bolt loose on caliper, Right Tie rod playing alot.

So the decision came that the car was a lemon and strip it. As I was removing the spindle, the rotor with the center hub FELL off the bearing. Hard to belive I was driving that.

The worst part of all this is that the subframe and table we're urethane'd or epoxed together.

So now to look for a car to drop in the engine...what's a direct fit?

 

[88323GT]

Well, Bolts missing or loose is really no reason to dump a car. Both my hubs on my white project car where mangled, and the passenger side fell apart like urs did. Again, go to the JY for missing bolts or even Hubs if they are bad. It will be much cheaper then getting a whole new car. Im replacing all Rubber gromets, bushings, replacing all bearings, and all brake components with new or reman. parts just so I know I can trust them and that they will last. This isnt a bad deal. This way, Once you get everything together, those are a bunch less problems you will have to face later on.
Seriously. Dont let a few missing bolts and bad bearings scare you. Replace em, Tighten them, and continue with the build.

 

[Mazda_323T]

The sub-fram (or fram) was twisted and rusted through, the table was glued in place, the car is a death trap, the miracle is that it didn't split in half when we drove it the the garage, bad_manners_god dad owns a professional body shop and estimated the repairs to be in the thousands of dollars. i like mazda a lot but id rather either put a downpayment on a mazda speed 6 than into an 88 gt, no offense, but i hope u understand were im coming from, or even with the range the repairs were heading to id be able to drive outve a jdm shop with a gtr r-33 skyline. once the 180 day ban passes....fkin qc gouvernment. thats y were stoping THAT build. so instead were looking for a quick, as cheap as possible, and efficient swap, were keeping all the good components from the B6T including hubs, wiring harnesses, ecu everything thats good and salvagable is being salvaged, but to my great disappointment, the chasis isn't at all salvagable or else trust me it would be 100% garunteed, i love the look of the car....


Anyway im thinking of using either a BG 323 or Protege, which ever is cheaper and simpler to swap (though if im not mistaken, the the basically the same thing cept coupe and sedan right?) Anyway, i wanted to no if there was engine mounts easily and cheaply available, or do we need to get creative, for this swap and would i have to change my drive axels even though im basically just doing a body swap and everything else is staying the same as on the GT chasis?

 

[badmanners]

The table and subframe and front impact frame are cracked and twisted....beyond salvagable. The car is already getting dismantaled as we speak. Engine, Ecu, Harness, Drive Axles, Hub's and rear disc assembly is being saved for a swap....any other parts I find worth keeping I will, but the car is dead and taking valuable place.

I do agree with the look of the car. I had taken the hood and front end off to work on it today and as people came into the shop I asked them what it was and nobody got it right.

First person said a Nissian Sentra.
Second Person said a BMW E30 1986-1991 3 series
Thrid Person said a Nissian
Fourth Person said a Mercedez Benz

Are there any mounts that are avliable for purchase that make the swap bolt-on into a BG 323 Chassis?

 

[88323GT]

As far as I know, There is no easy solution to swapping a BF motor into a BG engine bay. It will require some work. Easiest thing is to find a BF Sedan or hatch to swap everything over for. Anything electrical in the engine bay, Keep. Air Flow meters between NA and turbo are different, Etc.
Didnt get the part about the subframe. That is a real bummer. Also keep any Power options, ya know? Strip it out completely and trash the frame, empty shell.
I hear where your commin from, Ide probably do the same. Hope somethin works out for ya. Keep us updated.

 

[Mazda_323T]

I talked to someone today who works for mazda and did the same project as i am, since its the 2WD the engine is in fact a bolton to the BG and the hubs should be a perfect fit also, so the project begins once i pick up the BG. The engine in the BG is a B6 SOHC.

 

[badmanners]

So then if it's a B6 SOHC, it should use the same radiator, radiator hoses and the speedo cable?

 

[88323GT]

negative. B6T uses a different radiator. Hoses may be different as well as cable im sure. B6T radiator is a bit more beefy then the SOHC for better cooling.
You know what, your right. I forgot that the SOHC from the BG is a drop in fit to a BF, so I dont actually see the problem there . The radiator should be easy to find, as it will use any decent radiator. A popular mod for the GT/GTX is a 90's Civic Radiator. Its a small little thing, but apperently works great. Keep me posted.

 

[Mazda_323T]

The speedo cable will be the same tho, i found that out to lol