M3_Zoom said:
camrycev6, I sure will. My appointment is tomorrow at 9:30 and as soon as I return home, I will post the details.
YES YES YES Folks, there is a PCM ECM Update. I will save the best news for last. First, I would like to say unfortunately I DID NOT get all the information from my dealer as promissed and in no way fashion or form am I bashing Mazda or there products, but it's apparent each individual dealer has there own standards for customer service and satisfaction. Although my dealer did not come through with all the information, I was put in touch with a very very determined Mazdaspeed service department person elsewhere. I'm saying it in that fashion to protect this other dealerships best interest. Apparently what I gathered from our lengthy conversation is, it's more or less a slap in the face to any other dealer who tells you "No there is not an update" and you go back and say "we'll I just spoke to so and so at bla bla bla Mazda and he/she gave me the update information. Sadly sometimes people loose their jobs so I agreed to use the information provided only. It was a great trade off and agreement between us.
So here are the details:
If your Brakes are "Humming" while driving WITHOUT you depressing the brake pedal and the brakes are warmed up, you may have one or more problems and Mazda is aware. They will check, lubricate or replace brake parts as necessary. The caliper(s) are found to be dragging causing the "humming" noise thus results in front caliper(s), rotor(s) and brake pads to overheat and glaze. Some will be fixed by relubricating the caliper piston or total replacement of the caliper(s), front pads and resurfacing the rotors. They may even remove .2 - .4 off the rotor(s) which is no big deal and still keeps them within spec. Today my entire brake system was looked over to include the ABS and all was well. My car only has 250 miles on it, but it "hummed" the first 200 miles and then went away on it's own. My take was the brakes had a "rust" build up from sitting and not being driven. All cars do that plus all new cars need there brakes to be bedded in. The pads may have even been a bit thick, but I'm really babying my car the first few thousand miles waiting for the aftermarket world to take off.
Now, the PCM/ECM update re-flash, Purge/Swirl Valve replacement and the 3 different thrown CEL codes that start with "p" etc. are all THE SAME EXACT REFLASH!!! It is to address the driveability problem. There is a TSB, yes a TSB but it appears to only be visible to the Mazda Service Folk not the usual NHTSA TSB's etc. Why? I don't know, but I'm hoping to get that fixed because guess what? This re-flash is a Multi-Model update! That's right and here are the exact details you will need to get your car re-flashed:
Mazda TSB 01-046-06 "Multi-model PCM/ECM update for driveability problem."
It can be accessed a few different ways at your Mazda dealer. Either by the above TSB, by the service tech entering into the mconnects.com system (Mazda Support System) and entering DTC-2407 with your VIN# or lastly by the re-flash "File Update Name" SW-L34SEC000.
TSB 01-046-06 / DTC-2407 + VIN# / SW-L34SEC000: Address multi-model PCM/ECM update for driveability problem: p0001 & p2006, Engine Hesitation on Deceleration, Engine Hesitation on Acceleration (most really feel it in 3rd and 4th gear), Stall immediately after a cold start-up and is used upon Swirl Valve/Purge Valve replacement.
*Added note, the service tech I spoke to went into the Mazda Support System entered DTC-2407 and my VIN# and BAM, there it was. I will be calling tomorrow to schedule my appointment. Lasty, you don't need to have a CEL thrown to have this done, but you certainly need to have one of the above issues. Someone stated "just tell you dealer your CEL came on and wen't off." Great try but if you really have a CEL come on and go back out, it's stored in your PCM so when they hook your car up to the machine they can see what CEL was tripped.
Again, I'm here for all of us and to make our beasts, B-E-A-S-T-S!!! I wish I had a dyno at my disposal. I would do a pre and post flash dyno just to see the difference across the band. As the saying goes, the proof are in the numbers...
Happy Safe Motoring(drive2)
