Updates?
if it’s an older MAF sensor it could be the cause of your erratic afr and dog s*** running with humidity. Also the stock ecu requires the egr port on the intake side to not be blocked off since it is a part of the calculation for the afr. It can cause a bunch of funky issues when blockedWelp, where do we start?
The Maxpeedingrods turbo has been holding up amazingly
The SSFCU is a little erratic there hasn't been a big issue with fuel accept during acceleration from a stop. The AFR is showing that I start running lean, like in the 18's oooor if I just floor it, there's just a chance that it'll just dump fuel and dropping my afrs down to the low 8's , but I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the radium fuel rail, and the fact that I'm running the walbro pump on stock wiring, plus, my alternator isn't really in it's prime.
So far I've removed the VICS butterflies, which I've started to wonder if that's a part of the excessively lean scenario when hitting boost from a launch, and I went ahead and put a blockoff plate on the EGR that I had made from SendCutSend.
I'm only running 256cc injectors and only 12psi, so I don't think that's causing the rich/lean issue?
At idle I'm sitting between 14.6 and 15.2, at light acceleration I sit between 12 and 13, during boost (if I'm already moving) she runs between 10 and 12 depending.
Runs like absolute dog s**** during a heavy humidity day.
The BC Racing coilovers are as good as I've heard. No issues with cornering or typical handling.
I haven't had a chance to actually take it out for a real spin, but she feels solid at 122mph.
I still don't know what the whp is sitting though.
While trying to do some preventative maintenance, I did find out that I've had a pretty large exhaust leak at the v-band for the turbo. Went to fix that annnd I caused an oil leak from the oil return line. The line was sitting to close to the manifold and had burned up the line. I guess moving it was enough to finally cause it to fail.
The rebuilt transmission is holding boost really well so far. I wanted to do an upgrade that @MuffinMan06 shared, but I just didn't have the time. The transmission is shifting super smooth and there's been no jerkiness accept when shifting into reverse if I haven't let the car idle for a few minutes after starting it up.
As for the transmission, at 12 psi it’s going to start slipping eventually even if you lift off the gas when it is shifting. The stock soft internals are only going to hold around 170ft/lb at the input shaft before it starts to slip especially if still using the stock 3 frictions in the direct drum. the lentech valve body really helps with slip during shifting and only raises the ceiling at the input shaft to 190ft/lb.Welp, where do we start?
The Maxpeedingrods turbo has been holding up amazingly
The SSFCU is a little erratic there hasn't been a big issue with fuel accept during acceleration from a stop. The AFR is showing that I start running lean, like in the 18's oooor if I just floor it, there's just a chance that it'll just dump fuel and dropping my afrs down to the low 8's , but I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the radium fuel rail, and the fact that I'm running the walbro pump on stock wiring, plus, my alternator isn't really in it's prime.
So far I've removed the VICS butterflies, which I've started to wonder if that's a part of the excessively lean scenario when hitting boost from a launch, and I went ahead and put a blockoff plate on the EGR that I had made from SendCutSend.
I'm only running 256cc injectors and only 12psi, so I don't think that's causing the rich/lean issue?
At idle I'm sitting between 14.6 and 15.2, at light acceleration I sit between 12 and 13, during boost (if I'm already moving) she runs between 10 and 12 depending.
Runs like absolute dog s**** during a heavy humidity day.
The BC Racing coilovers are as good as I've heard. No issues with cornering or typical handling.
I haven't had a chance to actually take it out for a real spin, but she feels solid at 122mph.
I still don't know what the whp is sitting though.
While trying to do some preventative maintenance, I did find out that I've had a pretty large exhaust leak at the v-band for the turbo. Went to fix that annnd I caused an oil leak from the oil return line. The line was sitting to close to the manifold and had burned up the line. I guess moving it was enough to finally cause it to fail.
The rebuilt transmission is holding boost really well so far. I wanted to do an upgrade that @MuffinMan06 shared, but I just didn't have the time. The transmission is shifting super smooth and there's been no jerkiness accept when shifting into reverse if I haven't let the car idle for a few minutes after starting it up.
True! The car actually won't run if I use the stock maf, or Denso. Only runs with the Duralast brand maf hahaif it’s an older MAF sensor it could be the cause of your erratic afr and dog s*** running with humidity. Also the stock ecu requires the egr port on the intake side to not be blocked off since it is a part of the calculation for the afr. It can cause a bunch of funky issues when blocked
So, after speaking with Lentech, I did upgrade the valve body per their instructions, and I upgraded to the Raybestos clutches too. Added a friction to the forward drum also.As for the transmission, at 12 psi it’s going to start slipping eventually even if you lift off the gas when it is shifting. The stock soft internals are only going to hold around 170ft/lb at the input shaft before it starts to slip especially if still using the stock 3 frictions in the direct drum. the lentech valve body really helps with slip during shifting and only raises the ceiling at the input shaft to 190ft/lb.
Awesome! Should be good thenSo, after speaking with Lentech, I did upgrade the valve body per their instructions, and I upgraded to the Raybestos clutches too. Added a friction to the forward drum also.
While you’re sorting out the tuning I would recommend turning the boost down to 5-6 psi so you don’t risk catastrophic detonation from an errorReally hoping so!
That makes sense. I'll have to keep that in mind.While you’re sorting out the tuning I would recommend turning the boost down to 5-6 psi so you don’t risk catastrophic detonation from an error
ThanksI'll get together a parts list and send it to you. I need to find all the receipts so I can make sure I'm giving you the rights part numbers