Major Header Problems!!!

that would be interesting, plug both valves and then put a cel fix on both ends, maybe that will save a CEL from arising, but I assume no matter what you use that within a yr you'll see a CEL from having both plugged, the damn ecu is that picky. then again maybe not, maybe you'll be fine forever.
 
i think the line should be fixed properly... running with them plugged probably doesnt help. And there is no CEL fix that i know of to fix that. and zmepro... if you have the pipes lined up but it doesnt thread just weld the peices to together... u can always cut later :D
 
ok, here is the update! after getting the stock bung cut off and welded onto the header, finding all the exhaust leaks ( 4 of them ) MAKING 2 gaskets and laying on the ground for so long my body is in pain.

it works, everything fits

and it did make a difference. the car pulls harder in higher rpm and aside from the buzzy stock muffler, it sounds good and pulls hard

(thumb)
 
u guys inspired me....to do the same thing. so will this throw a CEL becouse there isnt the 1st cat there anymore? and this bolts up to the 2nd cat w/ no problems?
 
no.

heres how it goes. You MUST have the following to make things work with NO CEL.

1. Probe header off ebay
2. Treaded EGR valve for header ($20 from dealership or cut your old one off)
3. RACING MAZDA TEST PIPE (This is the importent one, with out it, nothing will work)
4. MIL eliminator
5. If you want a Cat, have one custom made to the same dimentions as the Racing mazda test pipe


You have an exhaust shop weld the new egr threaded rod onto the right location on the probe header ( bring your stock and the new one and they will know what to do )
then everythign will bolt up, put in the MIL eliminator, and everything works.
 
zmepro said:
so here is the story, i got a probe header off ebay and guess what... everything worked execept......
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they look sexy tho :D any suggestions? currently my car is out of commisson, it was fun drivin it home, sounded like a broken lawnmower
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Whooosh!



Car: Protege5 Turbo
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: New Jersey
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</TD><TD class=alt1><!-- message -->Well guys..Got some bad news...Got the header installed today...took it into the shop...due to minor problems!

1.Header doesn't bolt onto the 2nd cat..infact it needed a test pipe..as noted by a couple of people! So yes..That's correct i have no cats...only resonator & a silencer!

2.the egr valve wasn't close enough...so i needed to have it welded to the existing bung on the header...also the threading for the egr valve was to large for the header..which is again why i had it welded...

Well the shop that i had it installed charged me over $120 to have the header installed as well as having the test pipe made..and the egr welded on!

To anyone who is interested in purchasing this header..i would suggest...seeking proffesional installation..unless you are a good welder..

Personally if i could have done it over..i would have purchased the RM Header...

Though...I have the header installed..by a proffesional (didn't have to lift a finger :p and the total cost for the header was exactly the same price as if i was to purchase the RM Header )

:D

I will post pics soon...Haven't installed the cel fix..but don't have a cel light..but i will install it anywayz tomm...i didn't reset my ecu..but after i do the fix..i will reset the ecu...

Chas
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Don't anyone use the search anymore? LOL?

This has been discussed many times! The egr doesn't line up..and the nut is to large to fit the obx egr fitting!

best bet is to get it welded..Don't bother with heater hose..it will melt! I tried that at first..it lasted for couple of days..than it melted itself right onto the header..and was a b**** to get off!

G/Luck

Chas

P.S. didn't i talk to you about this header?
 
Now explain the test pipe.... Is it an extension... couldnt i just have the header welded to the 2nd cat and ditch the flange and anything else in the way?
 
akhilleus said:
Now explain the test pipe.... Is it an extension... couldnt i just have the header welded to the 2nd cat and ditch the flange and anything else in the way?
Yes..it's an extension..you cna't have the header welded to the 2nd at..b/c you will pass the 2nd cat by approx .5' (6 inches)...You would have to cut the header..and that's gonna cost more $$$!

Your better off w/ the test pipe..and getting a high flow cat added into the test pipe!

Chas(thumb)
 
actually it would be cheaper. All i would have to do is have the header cut 6" roughly... unless i dont have enough room(flex coupling). and make a new flange or just weld the pieces together... it is weak ss so it should cut easily... not like cast iron. i can weld the two pieces together right? i dont have to have a flange necessarily right. I want to keep the 2nd cat for now...
 
yea that will defintely work..but i still think it would be cheaper to get a test pipe..the cost for evertying to make that header work on my car was about $100! That included test pipe, egr & install!

Chas
 
here is some pricing...
1. Header $100
2. EGR valve $20
3. Test Pipe $45~
4. Welding for egr ($20-$50)
5. MIL eliminator $20

Total: ~$230 +- $30

If you want a cat
$35 for a cheap high flow cat
$50 for welding and flanges
(no need for MIL eliminator)
add ~$85
 
Wow ...those prices are high!

You should have check out some other mechancis..i got mine done at Mienke..a friend worked there..and hooked me up lovely!

Chas
 
yea, i got kinda ripped on the welding but i was desperate and i don't have any freinds who work at muffler shops.
 
wish u lived closer to sac.. my roommate coulda done the welding for you for a couple bucks and some beer.
 
it will until you get a high flow cat..than it will sound really nice!

Chas
 
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