PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Tape a stress ball behind the gas pedal to provide resistance. (second)
magnumP5's RX-7 Build Thread
- Thread starter magnumP5
- Start date
Haha, I'm sure this would improve fuel economy as well. I dug through EFI Hardware's site and is does look like they've got a variety of TB "throttle stop" springs ranging from very light, light, standard, and heavy duty. I assume I have standard (will check when I get home). Unfortunately it's like a $5 that has to come from Australia...
bikingpro5
Member
- :
- 03 Protege5
perrin rail in oven cleaner bath
rail out of the bath and washed with warm water
5mins buy hand with aluminum polish
hope that gives you a better idea
rail out of the bath and washed with warm water
5mins buy hand with aluminum polish
hope that gives you a better idea
You could add a secondary spring from the cam on the back of your ITBs to a bracket. Look in the autoparts story for carb/throttle return springs or hit up the hardware store. It may not be a clean enough install for your setup but it is cheap and easy.
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
^ thats what i was gonna suggest...
Yeah, apparently my ITB kit comes with the heavy duty spring so no luck there. What you guys are proposing sounds like what the guys at EFI are suggesting. The cam already has an unused hole I might be able to use for one side of the connection, but like you said the trick is finding the other location to connect the spring. It's not a HUGE issue; the car will still be driveable. The only problem occurs if I release the throttle from WOT; the pedal will actually "bounce," which could lead to some issues on track.
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
Never let off the gas...
Problem solved!
Problem solved!
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
(iagree)
Got the plug wires in yesterday!
Custom 30" leads with 90 deg HEI "top post" type coil boots and straight spark plug boots. I also picked up two sets of their wire separator things. $110 for the whole deal!
These are Magnecor's 8.5 mm "KV85 Race Wires." They have 10 mm wires but the conductor is the same. The thickness difference is due to more heat shielding.
Magnecor makes a lot of claims regarding EMI and RFI but I'm not sure about all that. All I know is I had good experiences with their wires on my P5 and on the RX-7 pre-water jacket failure. Plus Magnecor is awesome to work with.
The 30" length really was halfway between a guess and a rough measurement. I used an old section of vacuum line to approximate my desired routing and measure. For once my guesstimate proved correct!
Hopefully Evan approves of the neatness. Here's another shot:
I had to make yet another bracket to hold the wires in place near the fuse box. I'm getting damn good with a hacksaw, table grinder, drill, and sandpaper.
It's basically a straight piece of 16 ga steel with a hole in one end and a small turn up on the other to restrain the wire separator. It's currently off the car being painted black.
I'm actually pretty pleased with how everything turned out. The wires for the front rotor just barely touch the brake line for the driver's front caliper but other than that there's plenty of room between the wires and the alternator and steering column. They even cross most other lines at approximately 90 degrees. I really need to make lables for the coil packs...
Today I'm going to see if I can't pick up some different kinds of carb throttle return springs. If I can find one or two that are short enough and strong enough I think I have a solution.
Custom 30" leads with 90 deg HEI "top post" type coil boots and straight spark plug boots. I also picked up two sets of their wire separator things. $110 for the whole deal!
These are Magnecor's 8.5 mm "KV85 Race Wires." They have 10 mm wires but the conductor is the same. The thickness difference is due to more heat shielding.
Magnecor makes a lot of claims regarding EMI and RFI but I'm not sure about all that. All I know is I had good experiences with their wires on my P5 and on the RX-7 pre-water jacket failure. Plus Magnecor is awesome to work with.
The 30" length really was halfway between a guess and a rough measurement. I used an old section of vacuum line to approximate my desired routing and measure. For once my guesstimate proved correct!
Hopefully Evan approves of the neatness. Here's another shot:
I had to make yet another bracket to hold the wires in place near the fuse box. I'm getting damn good with a hacksaw, table grinder, drill, and sandpaper.
It's basically a straight piece of 16 ga steel with a hole in one end and a small turn up on the other to restrain the wire separator. It's currently off the car being painted black.
I'm actually pretty pleased with how everything turned out. The wires for the front rotor just barely touch the brake line for the driver's front caliper but other than that there's plenty of room between the wires and the alternator and steering column. They even cross most other lines at approximately 90 degrees. I really need to make lables for the coil packs...
Today I'm going to see if I can't pick up some different kinds of carb throttle return springs. If I can find one or two that are short enough and strong enough I think I have a solution.
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Neatness approved of. (2thumbs)
you silly mechaphile (and yes thats a real thing, i didnt just make that up) hahahaha
I googled it to be sure. Yuck! Lol! I mean, don't get me wrong, Jon. You are doing a great job but I still prefer boobies. haha
When do you think you'll get your triangles back and can start putting the motor together?
When do you think you'll get your triangles back and can start putting the motor together?
PrinceValorum
Member
- :
- 95 626 FS, 89 Toyota Derux 4x4
Lol same exact thing I did.
Damnit, now I went and looked it up too. Some messed up people on this planet...
Not sure actually. Mazdatrix has only had everything for about a week now. I guess I'm not in too much of a hurry at this point. I still need to get my exhaust manifold as well. The plan is to finish absolutely everything else on the car before rebuilding the engine. I don't want to rebuild the engine only to have it sit for an extended period of time. Still need to (in no particular order):
-Paint engine pieces
-Depower steering rack
-Duct radiator
-Make some kind of fan shroud
-Install harness
I'll probably hold off on getting the passenger seat and harness for a little bit as they're not absolutely necessary.
Not sure actually. Mazdatrix has only had everything for about a week now. I guess I'm not in too much of a hurry at this point. I still need to get my exhaust manifold as well. The plan is to finish absolutely everything else on the car before rebuilding the engine. I don't want to rebuild the engine only to have it sit for an extended period of time. Still need to (in no particular order):
-Paint engine pieces
-Depower steering rack
-Duct radiator
-Make some kind of fan shroud
-Install harness
I'll probably hold off on getting the passenger seat and harness for a little bit as they're not absolutely necessary.
roy obanion
Member
- :
- 02 p5, 95 miata
Hopefully Evan approves of the neatness. Here's another shot:
I had to make yet another bracket to hold the wires in place near the fuse box. I'm getting damn good with a hacksaw, table grinder, drill, and sandpaper.
Looks awesome!
Thanks!
I may have found a solution for the soft throttle:
It may not be the prettiest thing in the world but it works. I went to Autozone and picked up a pack of generic throttle return springs and a cheap APC throttle return spring bracket. I bent the bracket flat in a vice and it fit quite well. The pedal could still be a little stiffer but it's a lot better than before. The problem with linear extension springs is the force is directly proportional and linear with the amount of elongation. This means the initial stiffness of the pedal is relatively unchanged but it quite stiffer as the pedal is depressed more. Of all the springs this was the stiffest one that could fit between the pulley and the cable guide arm. Another option is to increase the preload on the spring, which I've done to some extent now, but too much and the spring yields and exerts less force. I'll probably make a little extension piece to add to the APC bracket or make a new bracket altogether so I can run another spring on the other side of the pulley for some more tension and adjustability (can run thicker springs).
Also, because I mentioned redoing the power wiring last week my parts came in:
The bus bar on the left isn't as big as I originally thought but the cut-outs in the cover will still make arranging things difficult. I'm going to try to use the single post terminal on the right first. The weird thing above it is a cover. I plan to run the battery power and starter wires out one side and the fuse box and fan power out the other. This way I have the peace of mind there won't be any shorts to the chassis.
mymmeryloss
Member
- :
- 13bT Mazda B2600i
Lookin real good!
I couldve done without the mention of APC in this thread...
I couldve done without the mention of APC in this thread...
