magnumP5's RX-7 Build Thread

[magnumP5]

There are a lot of people looking for hvac and all sorts of other oem parts on other rx7 forums..

I'm interested in this wiring. I will be doing the same!

Unfortunately not the RX-7 forums I'm on and I don't like to register just to sell stuff...

Fortunately for you your harness is already out of the vehicle. The next thing for me to tackle is the front harness which literally wraps around the engine bay, enters the cabin through the driver's side firewall and runs behind the length of the dash. For a clean de-pinning job I'm pretty certain the dash would have to come out but the plastic is so brittle! The last time I messed with that stuff was to fix a couple broken panels and I ended up breaking or cracking so many pieces. I'm afraid if I removed the dash I wouldn't be able to get it back in.

I spent most of last night doing housework but I did find a spare 15 minutes to pull the AC2 circuit, the P/S control module and the cruise control module.

 

[mymmeryloss]

My dash was very brittle also, and replacement parts are freaking expensive!

 

[magnumP5]

So I ended up tearing apart 90% of the interior on Friday. The only pieces still in place are the A-pillars, B-pillars and the dash. I decided to "practice" wire removal with the rear harness before attempting the front and engine harness to make sure I would be up for the task. I tried to document the "journey" from the end of the rear harness to about 3/4 way through before I stopped.

This is the AAS connector (the larger white one) near the rear strut tower on the passenger's side. This is the "farthest" point of the rear harness:

From there is travels back toward the rear of the car:

Where it joins several other wires in a large connector plugged into this, the AAS controller, located behind the passenger's side taillight:

Here are the wires at about the middle of the rear of the car. The wire stripper/cutter is used when one of the wires from the connectors I'm removing merge with something I want to keep (like a ground). I think I ended up only needed to cut two wires in totoal.

On the driver's side now. Obviously a lot more wires to deal with now that I've passed the taillights. At this point I ended up completely de-pinning the AAS controller plug because the wires were so intertwined with the others that I couldn't make any progress.

So I skipped a few steps and now I'm at the driver's side door (see weather stripping on right). What I skipped was travelling around the driver's side strut tower, grabbing another AAS connector and dealing with a lot of crap associated with the rear wiper. The big white thing in the picture below is the motor for the "Passive Shoulder Belt" (think '80's automatic shoulder belts).

This is as far as I made it this weekend. Not pictured are the wires and switches I removed from the center console (AAS and foglights), which route under the seat area and merge with the rear harness just to the right in the picture above. From here the harness runs along the driver's door sill and up near the dead pedal where it splits into three plugs. The wires to be removed will be de-pinned from those plugs and everything wrapped back up and tucked away.

 

[mymmeryloss]

Coming along nicely!

 

[PrinceValorum]

You have to weigh it all when you're finished!

 

[magnumP5]

Coming along nicely!

But so slowly! I typically work about 1-2 ft at a time and I've done maybe 10 linear feet at this point. I already know I'm going to have to go back and redo the rear at some point. I really want to get a wiperless rear hatch so I'll be able to ditch all the rear wiper crap (motor, resevoir and wires). Also, I left what I thought was a check connector in place but it turns out it's the original plug for the power antenna, d'oh! The previous owner replaced it with a fixed unit and I guess tossed the whole power unit and left the plug hanging there.

You have to weigh it all when you're finished!

I really want to. I'm hoping to have the car down ~200 lbs when all is said and done.

I think I've also finalized my ECU/Ignition/Injector plans:

ECU: Haltech Sprint RE
Ignition: IGN-1A Race Coil (4)
Injectors: Injector Dynamics ID850 (2)

 

[Lewis7789]

How about just a rubber rear wiper delete plug? That's what I did to my P5. It was like $10 for the Honda plug on eBay. I can get you a listing if you like?

I was going to say delete the rear wiper too, but I know some people are very animate about keeping the rear wiper. Delete that s***, yo! haha

 

[magnumP5]

How about just a rubber rear wiper delete plug? That's what I did to my P5. It was like $10 for the Honda plug on eBay. I can get you a listing if you like?

I was going to say delete the rear wiper too, but I know some people are very animate about keeping the rear wiper. Delete that s***, yo! haha

If I just wanted to get rid of the wiper that's what I'd do. However, I want to get rid of the entire wiper/motor/fluid resevoir assembly for weight savings. Plus the wiperless hatch has slightly better visibility because it doesn't have the motor covering slightly obstructing view. I have no problem deleting the rear wiper as it's unlikely this car will see rain much in the future unless it rains on track. Even then the rear window only gets wet if I'm sitting still.

I may FINALLY have some leads on some TII parts. A guy in Canada has S5 rotor and side housings and can meet me in Detroit (eek!) but hasn't specified a price and another guy has both S4 and S5 side housings for $200 (!!!) but is in NJ and doesn't really want to ship. I originally wanted the S4 side housings because the ports all have the same timing thus making intake manifold design easier but the castings are supposedly weaker and I already have the front cover, water pump housing and water pump for the S5, which are not itnerchangeable between series. I suppose I could always port the S5 to the same timing either way. Supposedly the S5 rotor housings are slightly better... EXCITED!

 

[mymmeryloss]

Progress?

 

[magnumP5]

Progress?

Eh, not really any. We have family visiting over the holiday weekend so all my free time the last few weeks has been spent putting the house back together and cleaning up. After this weekend I should be able to get back into things.

I did send money to the Canadian guy for some turbo intermediate housings (irons) and rotor housings so hopefully those are on their way. I did complete the removal of the rear AAS components but I may go back and remove the wires for the stock antenna and rear wiper stuff since I intend on ditching them in the future.

Other than that it's just been planning, planning, planning. I'm concern about my wideband options as the primaries for the exhaust I'm designing don't merge until 50-65" after the exhaust ports. This is too far away to place a single O2 sensor and I'm not sure I want to tune the engine based on readings from just one rotor. There are two-channel wideband controllers out there but I don't think the ECU I want (Haltech Sprint RE) can accept two wideband O2 inputs; for that I would have to step up to the Sport 1000 (+$400). The only other option I can think of is to use two wideband O2 sensors, monitor both but only tune off one. Injected Performance makes a pretty cool digital double wideband O2 gauge that works perfectly with the Haltech dual-channel controller.

Did you end up getting someone to make your turbo manifold? I'm trying to find someone to make me an intake manifold and everyone I've contacted either hasn't replied, said they won't do it or want like $2000. Seriously, it's just a four-runner intake manifold that's like 11-12" long. I can even provide the flanges and material if necessary...

 

[mymmeryloss]

I have a "friend" that has been supposedly building me one for over a year now. I have seen it off and on, and all test fits have failed so he takes it back and a couple months later he shows back up. He won't ever answer my calls or texts.

The bad thing is is I want to get my engine rebuilt and I need to pull it, and so its pretty much holding up my build. Needless to say, he probably won't be much of a friend after this whole ordeal. I could easily have built it myself, but I don't have a tig welder nor access to one.

Every shop I talked to wanted $1500 to build one, and I didn't trust any of them anyways. Needless to say, I would've probably been better off to have one of them do it.

But ya, hopefully I get it back soon, cuz its really pissing me off, and like I said, really holding up my build. I planned on having my truck running by the end of the summer, and now I really don't see it happening.

So ya, just a word of advice. Sometimes its better to pay the price and get something when u want/need it instead of "saving" money and never getting a finished product.

But on another note, I'm interested in ur wiring since I will be tackling that as soon as I get a turbo mani and after a bridgeport and rebuild!

P.s. I really wanted to thank u again for the seats! I love them!
Lemme know if u ever wanna rip out the rears lol. I am gonna try and run rx7 rears in my truck also lol...

 

[magnumP5]

So ya, just a word of advice. Sometimes its better to pay the price and get something when u want/need it instead of "saving" money and never getting a finished product.

But on another note, I'm interested in ur wiring since I will be tackling that as soon as I get a turbo mani and after a bridgeport and rebuild!

P.s. I really wanted to thank u again for the seats! I love them!
Lemme know if u ever wanna rip out the rears lol. I am gonna try and run rx7 rears in my truck also lol...

I just want to actually talk to a fabricator about what I want before they quote me a price. I have some ideas in my head and none of them are overly complex: just two flanges and four equal length, constant radius runners. That doesn't sound like it'd be too hard to make to me but then again I do not have, or know how to use any sort of welding device.

I haven't made too much progress on the wiring other than removing the AAS stuff from the rear and the foglight switch. Right now it's all just removing stuff so I don't know how helpful that will be. I do need to take a picture of all the wires and control boxes I've removed - it's comical.

I'm glad you like the seats. I forgot all about your setup being RHD so it's a bummber about the driver's seat. Unfortunately my car wasn't a 2+2 model so I don't have the rear seats; just two storage bins. I'm curous how you'd use them in the truck. I really don't know why so many people want those things because from what I've seen they look useless.

 

[mymmeryloss]

Basically I just want a complete rx7 interior in a b truck. I basically want to make a modern day repu truck how I think mazda should have made it in the nineties minus the suspension and all that jazz...

Anyway, I know the rear seats r uncomfortable and pretty much useless, but this truck is not a daily, and I have two young kids that I need to seat for cruises and stuff...

Back on topic.... doing fabrication on a manifold isn't that hard and especially for a rotary, but strength in a manifold with a turbo or high heat situations needs quality welds, and a good welder is expensive.

I would gladly do it for u if u don't mind if its mig welded and if u can get non stainless flanges. Personally I would want stainless manifold with a pretty tig weld...

 

[ogsp5]

Give Mack a call at 954-682-7281. He needs to ask some questions. he can do it for far less.

 

[magnumP5]

Basically I just want a complete rx7 interior in a b truck. I basically want to make a modern day repu truck how I think mazda should have made it in the nineties minus the suspension and all that jazz...

Anyway, I know the rear seats r uncomfortable and pretty much useless, but this truck is not a daily, and I have two young kids that I need to seat for cruises and stuff...

I wish I could help you more but there's not too much left of my interior that would be useful to you. Maybe the steering wheel and shift knob? Both are stock and in reasonably good condition although they would look best re-covered. There was a guy on RX7Club that sold new leather wrappings for the e-brake handle, shift knob and steering wheel; it was just up to you to sew them on. Since I'm not a member I don't know if he's still doing it but I could use a new e-brake handle...

Back on topic.... doing fabrication on a manifold isn't that hard and especially for a rotary, but strength in a manifold with a turbo or high heat situations needs quality welds, and a good welder is expensive.

I would gladly do it for u if u don't mind if its mig welded and if u can get non stainless flanges. Personally I would want stainless manifold with a pretty tig weld...

Yeah, even though I haven't looked all that hard I've only found stainless and aluminum flanges. I wouldn't mind mild steel but I'd get that thing coated ASAP! Temperatures shouldn't be too hot (<200F) as it is the intake manifold. The header is a completely different story but I think I already have a good source for one of those...

Give Mack a call at 954-682-7281. He needs to ask some questions. he can do it for far less.

Who's Mack?

I didn't do anything with the car over the long weekend. We ended up doing a lot of yard work so I have even less space in the garage now with all the garbage bags lying around. I went back to work on the wiring in the rear last night. I think I am just about done now. I just need to wrap up all the wires and tuck them out of the way again. I ended up going back and removing the original powered antenna wires and all the rear wiper stuff. Even though the wiper motor is still there (it's on the hatch) I've removed all wires going to and from it as well as the washer fluid line and fluid bottle and motor. Tonight I'll try to take a picture of all the wires and control modules I've removed from the rear.

 

[mymmeryloss]

Sounds like fun!

Don't u just love having other responsibilities that keep u from ur projects?

Damn kids and their baseball games and school and that house and the yard and dishes and folding and washing clothes. And then the worst of all is when u gotta entertain all those "friends" after the kids have gone to bed.

When is there ever time for projects and sleep? Lol

Post up some pics, when u get a chance of course! Haha

 

[ogsp5]

Mack (Emerald Performance) is a dealer for Jen-Vey ITB's. He can put a complete intake for you, depending on what type of set up you need.

 

[magnumP5]

Sounds like fun!

Don't u just love having other responsibilities that keep u from ur projects?

Damn kids and their baseball games and school and that house and the yard and dishes and folding and washing clothes. And then the worst of all is when u gotta entertain all those "friends" after the kids have gone to bed.

When is there ever time for projects and sleep? Lol

Post up some pics, when u get a chance of course! Haha

So true! No kids (yet!) but apparently this is the year of weddings for me. One this weekend (in Boulder, CO actually), one next weekend, one in July and another in September. With plane tickets as expensive as they are I'm rapidly losing RX-7 funds... But yeah, all the work I've been doing lately is after work between dinner and sleep!

Mack (Emerald Performance) is a dealer for Jen-Vey ITB's. He can put a complete intake for you, depending on what type of set up you need.

I took a look at their site. I may have to give him a call as the Jenvey units have some nice features the TWM or EFI don't.

Still no pictures (I suck at life). I got some S4 TII housings and irons last night. They need to be disassembled and cleaned then they're off for several operations. Also ordered two Injector Dynamics ID1000 injectors. Two 1000 cc injectors should replace four 460 cc injectors, right?

 

[magnumP5]

Finally pictures...

All wiring removed so far:

And the new housings:

Now for the distinguishing features of a 4-port, TII motor: First the exhaust sleeves - NO BAFFLES!

Now the secondary intake ports - THERE'S ONLY ONE PER SIDE HOUSING!

Primary port (not much different here):

Secondary port. Again note there's ONLY ONE and NO SLEEVES!

Now I need to clean everything up so I can send the side housings out to get lapped (resurfaced). I need to swap the exhaust sleeves over to my original rotor housings as they're in better shape but I'm still considering getting them resurfaced as well. One thing I need to figure out is the water temperature sender. The S4 sensor is different from the S5 in just about everyway: electrical connector and thread diameter and pitch. I think the S4 is some non-tapered metric thread and pitch as it has a washer and the S5 is some sort of tapered thread/pitch. I've not yet identified either but I'm wondering if I can drill out the housing to use my stock sensor or if there is some kind of adaptor out there.

 

[PrinceValorum]

Those side housings are polished in the coolest fashion.