MAF relocation w/ Turbolife FMIC

i have ran both setups and blow through maf is just a lot better. more consistant boost and driveability. plus lets you VTA your bov
 
I've gone back and forth a few times when i had the MSP, and blow-through worked better for me, as it did on the boosted sr20's I had.
 
Have any of the Turbolife owners relocated the MAF to the cold pipe? I kinda wanna do it for improved throttle response as many claim, but I feel bad cutting those beautiful single piece pipes :(

Is the throttle response really that much better??

Do it, car drives better and you'll never have to worry about it stalling if you pop a pipe. Well except that last one. Oh and you can have a real BOV on the car without issues if you relocate.
 
for the ones that have relocated the MAF, did you have any issues with the ECU learning arount the move? I relocated my MAF last spring and after a week I started leaning out big time. I switched back and the issue went away. Any of you seen this?
 
No. Mine setup ran great. Transition was painless. Just make some cuts, use some reducers, and be done with it. You'll be glad you did.
 
for the ones that have relocated the MAF, did you have any issues with the ECU learning arount the move? I relocated my MAF last spring and after a week I started leaning out big time. I switched back and the issue went away. Any of you seen this?


Ideally, if you move your MAF, you have something to tune with... People have seen leaner AFR's by moving the MAF, so it's best to be able to tune for this move. Sometimes the leaner AFR's are just what the car needed, it depends though. How lean, in boost ?
 
at idle I was sitting at about 16.2 and under boost I was over 19. It took a week
thought before it started wigging out. the 1st week it ran fine.
 
at idle I was sitting at about 16.2 and under boost I was over 19. It took a week
thought before it started wigging out. the 1st week it ran fine.

if that's the case then something might have started to obstruct the MAF readings as I think a relocation would have the opposite symptom if any (weird readings at first then smooths out later)
 
Hey Oggie, I really don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm needing to relocate my MAF as well and need a quick question answered.

I have the turbohoses hard pipe kit and had a BOV flange welded onto it for my Greddy Type S. I'm semi-stalling with the MAF in it's stock location. Should I go ahead and buy the relocate hit from **********? or should I just try to get my own reducer couplings and do it myself? I'm know I'm going to have to cut the pipes and probably get them re-welded back together so I can still use my BOV, sad but true.

Thanks Oggie. And the Thunder seems to be holding up great!
 
Hey Oggie, I really don't mean to hijack your thread, but I'm needing to relocate my MAF as well and need a quick question answered.

I have the turbohoses hard pipe kit and had a BOV flange welded onto it for my Greddy Type S. I'm semi-stalling with the MAF in it's stock location. Should I go ahead and buy the relocate hit from **********? or should I just try to get my own reducer couplings and do it myself? I'm know I'm going to have to cut the pipes and probably get them re-welded back together so I can still use my BOV, sad but true.

Thanks Oggie. And the Thunder seems to be holding up great!
Hey bud, glad to hear you like the Thunder.. I'm sure it's loads better than a cracked stocker.

As far as relocating goes, don't spend a lot of money on it. All you really need is 2 silicone reducers and a 4 t-clamps. I talked to Turbolife since I have his FMIC and he hooked me up with couplers and clamps for $35.. so you should be able to score a similar deal.

But have you considered recirculating the BOV? You won't get as much sound but it's better overall performance and also better for your turbo from what I hear. I have the Type S recirculated and I think it sounds great. Not ricey & loud but noticeable. Kinda like a muffled sneeze lol.

Don't boost ANYMORE if you're seeing AFR's like that in boost..... Seriously, park it.
+1!! If you see ANYTHING in the 13's or above IN BOOST, then stop boosting and preferably stop driving the car until you get it figured out. Your engine WILL fail very fast due to running so lean/hot in boost.
 
Hey bud, glad to hear you like the Thunder.. I'm sure it's loads better than a cracked stocker.

As far as relocating goes, don't spend a lot of money on it. All you really need is 2 silicone reducers and a 4 t-clamps. I talked to Turbolife since I have his FMIC and he hooked me up with couplers and clamps for $35.. so you should be able to score a similar deal.

But have you considered recirculating the BOV? You won't get as much sound but it's better overall performance and also better for your turbo from what I hear. I have the Type S recirculated and I think it sounds great. Not ricey & loud but noticeable. Kinda like a muffled sneeze lol.

I already ordered the relocate kit and have talked to my welder about cutting into the pipes and welding it all back together. Gonna get it taken care of this weekend or early next week. How do you recirc the BOV? and once that's recirculated can I remove the BPV?
 
Yea the BOV can replace the BPV if recirculated. Get at least a 1" (25 mm) recirculation fitting that screws into the BOV and weld in a 1" nipple on the intake. Then just connect the two in the straightest/shortest path using a 1" silicone or rubber hose. You wanna go with 1" fittings so you don't get compressor surge (turkey noise) when the BOV vents back into the intake.
 
Yea the BOV can replace the BPV if recirculated. Get at least a 1" (25 mm) recirculation fitting that screws into the BOV and weld in a 1" nipple on the intake. Then just connect the two in the straightest/shortest path using a 1" silicone or rubber hose. You wanna go with 1" fittings so you don't get compressor surge (turkey noise) when the BOV vents back into the intake.


Awesome! Thanks! I'll do that next then. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of your setup would you?
 

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