Lowest "Out the Door" price

The dealer called me back and said 24,900 PLUS title and admin fees. He's saying that other dealers are marking them up above and beyond MSRP! I know he is full of s*** but he said he won't budge...

looks like i will have to buy from a dealer in another region i guess...



any suggestions??

umm, what region are you in?
 
why negotiate OTD pricing? argue the cost for the car, the rest is just math added on top. it's the only way to be positive about what you are paying for the car. i know some dealers like to talk about monthly payments...DANG! talk about clouding the arguement...you would need to really think about the car pricing with that logic. i also went 3 years payments. i hope to knock it off in half that. i hate car payments.
 
08.5 GT w/ auto dimming mirror & wheel locks b4 TTL price was 22,875. OTD just around 25k thats with NYS 8.XX % sales tax...
 
2008 1/2 CWP GT: $24,700 incl auto-dim, HomeLink, cargo net and wheel locks. TTL made it $26,700
 
i called every dealer in az trying to work a deal and everyone was quoting msrp. it took 6 day till i finally got a ok deal. i hate buying new cars because most sales men are no nothing liars. it just takes time to find a deal you are satisfied with.



i got mine for about 200 over invoice and free tint,through in a mazdaspeed oil cap [sealed the deal]
i some how got 4.9 intrest with a so-so credit rating.
i DO LOVE MY CAR !!! WORTH EVERY CENT!!
 
Got my 2007 MS3 GT 23,500 + Tax @ Wescott Mazda and thats without the Nav and homelink but they did throw in full gas tank, wash/wax, cargo net and aluminum gas cover :)
 
So check this out ...

Hassled one dealership near my house for about two weeks to around 22,169. I got them to print out a Buyer's Form. Then took the Buyer's Form to my dealership (The dealer where I purchased my Mazda 3) and told them to beat the price. They gave me a higher trade-in value for my Mazda 3 and waived the freight.

When I bought my previous car (from the dealership, my Mazda 3) I was given a 2 year maintenance plan which included a 300 rebate on purchasing a new car. Well what do you know ... a few days before I was about to head to my dealer and purchase my Speed I received another rebate in the mail, for 1000 $ :eek:

Needles to say as I was filling out the paperwork for my CWP MS3 I slapped down both rebates lol .... You should have seen their faces LMAO.

I was told Mazda randomly mails out rebates, like the one I got, to a few people each year? So I guess I was lucky :D

Their was a minimum balance to finance, 7,500 $. I ended up keeping some of the cash for my trade-in. (Samsung LNA650 Series 6 TV Ftw (headbang) )

22,169
14,600 - Trade In Value
599? - Freight
300 - Rebate
1000 - Rebate

Not sure how much T&T were but I know I walked out there with a great deal :D
 
why negotiate OTD pricing? argue the cost for the car, the rest is just math added on top. it's the only way to be positive about what you are paying for the car. i know some dealers like to talk about monthly payments...DANG! talk about clouding the arguement...you would need to really think about the car pricing with that logic. i also went 3 years payments. i hope to knock it off in half that. i hate car payments.

Wrong, you want to negotiate OTD price. Leave the math to them. Let them figure it out what should be what. You want OUT THE DOOR price. I walked in had my regular 3, came in with the MSRP. Told them I won't over 25 flat for the car OTD.
 
Wrong, you want to negotiate OTD price. Leave the math to them. Let them figure it out what should be what. You want OUT THE DOOR price. I walked in had my regular 3, came in with the MSRP. Told them I won't over 25 flat for the car OTD.

huh? you cant figure out taxes? let's take your 25k. what are your fees? your local taxes? do you even know how much you paid over invoice? i think; you do all your research on the internet, figure out how much invoice is to the best of your knowledge and then go argue a buy price. then once they nail that down, you are done. the fees and taxes are going to be what they are going to be, you are not going to argue with uncle sam. look at the contract, check the numbers..pay...drive away.

my example. i knew what invoice was. they came back at exactly $200 over invoice. i said "i'll take it!" in my case $21200. no damn way i could go and say..i wont pay over....(guess) 23500 OTD. OTD is a mystery just because we dont know the exact fees. way to difficult for me to have all the info for a fair fight..
 
I agree. You're not negotiating fees and taxes, as those are usually set in stone unless they're trying to rip you off with unnecessary fees (window etching, $300 doc fees, etc...). We know what MSRP is, we have a general idea of what invoice is using online info from Edmunds and that should be all you need to approach multiple dealers with offers. I don't like beating around the bush and making the dealer do math. I make my offer, purposely low-ball them a little bit and go from there. If they give you a number in the ball park and won't budge, go to another dealer with that number and ask them if they can beat it. If you can do this with two or more dealers, I guarantee you will have at least one of them eating at out of your hand. One of the dealers I was working with nearly two months ago over the phone with pricing is still calling and emailing me to this day. I really need to answer the call one day and tell them I bought from another dealer, but I'm kinda curious as to how long they're going to keep it up.
 
how does this work?

You go to the site, choose the car you want, give them $200, they do all the work for you, you are guaranteed at least 5 quotes from dealers within driving distance.

I recieved 7 quotes plus one non bidder, they ranged from approx invoice -400 to invoice +800

Was worth it for me, I hate the time wasted dealing with the dealership.
You can do it your self using a fax attack, I got a book from the library that told you exactly how. The book recommended car bargains as the next best thing if you didnt want to do it your self.
 
I always negotiated OTD price. Since taxes and fees remained constant, all I was doing was getting them to lower the price of the car. But you can lower the price down to $20,000 and still be paying $24,000 OTD.
 

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